SUNBURST CLOAK

Featured: Luba tweed cloak

The sunburst yoke, always a favourite, is the feature of this flattering and simple cloak. This one by Luba is fashioned in tweed but any double-faced bottom-weight fashion fabric will do.

You will need:

• approx. 3 yds. [2.75 m] of fashion fabric, 54” [137 cm] wide.
• ½ yd. [0.5 m] of stay tape, 1/2” [12 mm] wide.
• coordinating thread
• kraft paper

DIMENSIONS: approx. 44” [112  cm] long  and 160” [400 cm ] sweep.

PATTERN

Cape Section

Draw 2 lines across paper at a 90° angle from point A.

A-B = width of fashion fabric less 2” [75 mm]; eg. 52” [132 cm].

A-C = A-B.

A-D = 9” [23 cm].

A-E = A-D.

Arc a radius of 9” [23 cm] from A connecting D to E.

D-F = 8” [20 cm].

E-G = D-F.

Arc a radius of 17” [43.2 cm] from A connecting F to G.

A-H = A-B on a 45° tangent line taken from A.

I is located at the intersection of F-G.

Arc a radius of 52” [132 cm] from  connecting B, H, and C.

Extend C to E by 1” [25  mm]; draw a parallel line to C-E.

Sunburst Yoke Section

Create the sunburst detail on the yoke with 11 neckline darts.

Reduce the neckline to 8” [40.5 cm]  from D to E. (Total measurement = 16″)

Dart width = 1 ⅛” [30 mm].

Design Note: For a smaller neckline, increase the number of darts. Keep the darting symmetrical to create the sunburst effect.

Place first dart on line A-I.

Place second dart (half-width) at centerback (D-F). Both are 8” [20  cm] long.

Divide distance between the 2 darts equally into thirds. Square 6” [15.2 cm] from line D-E. Draw in a dart at each location.

Divide distance between A-I and E-G equally into thirds. Square 6” [15.2 cm] from line D-E. Draw in a dart at each location.

Trace off yoke section onto folded paper with D-F on the foldline.

Separate yoke at shoulderline (A-I).

For neckline tie, draw a rectangle 54” long  X  2” wide  [137 cm x 5 cm].

Add ½” [12 mm] seam allowance to tie, yoke seams, shoulders, neckline, and hem.

CUTTING

Cape Body – cut 1X self

Yoke Back – cut 1X self

Yoke Front – cut 2X self

Cape Tie – cut 1X self

Cutting Tip: Align front edges of pattern pieces on selvedge of fabric for a neat  seam finish.

ASSEMBLY

1. With right sides together (RST), fold tie in half lengthwise and sew each end of tie leaving neck measurement open at center. Trim corners and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Set aside.

 

2. With right sides together, sew yoke fronts to yoke back at shoulders.  Grade seams and fold along shoulder seam with wrong sides together. With yoke FACE UP, sew dart at shoulder seam and secure shoulderline on underside with stay tape.

 

3. With wrong sides together, sew up darts along neckline on yoke.

 

4. With RST, sew yoke to body along yokeline. Grade seam and press upward. With garment FACE UP, topstitch yokeline.

 

5. Turn in 1” [25 mm] along CF edge. Topstitch in place.

 

6. Align and match tie to neckline of cape. Sew tie to neckline. Tuck seam allowance into tie and slip-stitch opening closed.

 

7. Hem sweep of cape.

 

CUFFED SHORTS

Featured: Salvatore Ferragamo

All the spring/summer collections had them on the runway: Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Jacobs, Victoria’s Secret, Diane Von Furstenberg, Chloe, Salvatore Ferragamo, D & G. All showed cuffed shorts in a variety of colours and patterns, lengths, and silhouettes. Design a pair for yourself with this easy pattern-draft.

You with need:

• 1 pant zipper, 6” [15 cm] long
• 2 sets of pant hook & bar, ¾” [20mm] dia.
• approx. 1 ½ yds. [1.4 m] of bottom-weight fashion fabric, 45”[114 cm] wide *
• ½ yd. [0.5 m] of pocketing fabric, 45”[114 cm] wide
• ¼ yd. [0.3 m] of fusible interfacing, 45” [114 cm] wide
• coordinating thread
• kraft paper

* yardage required is dependent upon finished length.

MEASUREMENTS

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso, just above the navel.

Hip – measure around fullest part of seat, about 8” [20 cm] below waistline.

Rise – measure vertically from waistline to top of chair while seated

Outseam – measure vertically from waist to finished hemline.

For example, on the featured model by Salvatore Ferragamo, the rise = 10″ and the outseam = 14″.

PATTERN

Draw a straight line across top of kraft paper. Label point 1 as shown.

2 from 1 = outseam + 7” [180 mm] less waistband (- 3″/75 mm).

3 from 1 = rise measurement minus 3” [75 mm].

4 from 1 = 5” [127 mm].

Square out across paper from all points.

5 from 4 = quarter of the hip measurement + 1″ [25 mm].

6 from 4 = quarter of the hip measurement + 1″ 25 mm].

Square up from 5 and 6 to locate 7 and 8 at the intersection of lines.

9 from 5 = 3 ½” [90 mm].

10 from 6 =  5” [125 mm].

Square down from 9 to locate 11 and 12 at the intersection of lines.

Draw a deep curve connecting 5 to 12, as shown.

Square down from 10 to locate 13 and 14 at the intersection of lines.

15 from 14 = ¾” [20 mm].

Draw a gentle curve from 6 to 15, as shown.

Divide the distance between 1 and 8 into 3 equal parts. Label points 16 and 17.

Draw waist darts at 16 and 17; make each dart = 1” wide X 4” long [25 mm X 11 mm].

18 from 1 = 2 ⅜” [60 mm].

19 from 8 = 2 ⅜” [60 mm].

Square down from 18 and square across from 19 to locate 20.

21 from 19 = 5” [127 mm].

22 from 20 = 5” [127 mm].

Square down from 20 and 22 to locate 23 at the intersection.

Draw a patch pocket and curve the bottom corners (23).

24 from 1 = 2″ [50mm].

25 from 24 = 1” [25 mm].

26 from 25 = 2 ⅜” [60mm].

27 from 1 = 5 ½” [140  mm].

28 from 27 = 1” [25 mm].

Draw a straight line parallel to line 24-27 from 25 to 28.

Square down from 26 to locate 29 just above the crotchline (3).

30 from 7 = 2” [50 mm].

X is located 4” [100 mm] from 11 and 13.

The grainline is parallel to line 1-2.

Waistband

Draw a straight line.

32 from 31 = waist measurement.

33 from 32 = 6” [152 mm].

Squaring 34 from 31 = 6” [152 mm].

35 from 34 = 2” [50 mm].

36 from 31 = 2” [50 mm].

37 = ½ of line 35-36.

38 = ½ of line 32-33.

Join 37 and 38 with a straight line (foldline).

Grainline can be width or length-wise in direction.

Pocket Bag

Trace off from front leg points 1-27-28-3-29-26-25-24-1 onto additional paper.

Trace off from front leg points  24-27-28-3-29-25-24 onto additional paper.

Flip one of the tracings and glue to the other along line 26-29.

Grainline is parallel to line 26-29 (foldline).

Pocket Facing

Trace off from front leg points 1-27-28-25-24-1.

Grainline is parallel to line 1-28.

Patch Pocket

Trace off pocket from back leg.

Add a 1” [25 mm] turning above line 20-22 for opening.

Grainline is parallel to line 22-23.

Fly & Fly Facing

Trace off CF seam of front leg points 5-7-30.

Draw a parallel line 2” [50 mm] to the CF line from point 30.

Shape the bottom to taper the facing, as shown.

Grainline is parallel to CF line (5-7).

* Add seam allowance to all pattern pieces.

CUTTING

Front – cut 2X self

Back – cut 2X self

Patch Pocket – cut 2X self

Waistband – cut 1X self

Pocket Facing – cut 2X self

Pocket Bag – cut 2X pocketing

Fly & Fly Facing – cut 3X self

Waistband Interfacing – cut 1X fusible

ASSEMBLY

1. Iron fusible interfacing onto back (wrong side) of waistband piece following manufacturer’s directions. Fuse a narrow strip (1”) of interfacing across top of each patch pocket. Set aside.

 

2. Finish seams on all cut pieces with pinking shears or overlock machine.

 

3. Lay the pocket bag piece FACE DOWN and place the pocket facing FACE UP in the upper square corner. Sew the pocket facing in place with a narrow zig-zag stitch. Repeat for opposite pocket.

 

4. Align and match slanted edge of pocket bag to front leg of shorts with RIGHT SIDES facing together. Sew slanted edge. Clip along seam allowance and turn pocketing to WRONG SIDE. Press seam and topstitch. Repeat for opposite front leg.

 

5. Stitch a French seam along bottom edge of pocket bag. Begin by folding bottom of pocket bag in half with WRONG SIDES facing together. Stitch half the width of the seam allowance. Trim seam allowance close to stitching line. Turn bag RIGHT SIDE OUT and press seam. Stitch remainder of seam allowance. Baste side of pocket bag to side seam of shorts. Repeat on other pocket bag.

 

6. With RST, sew curved edge of fly facing. Grade seam allowance and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Press seam and topstitch. With the fly facing FACE UP and the curved edge to your left, stitch the zipper FACE UP to the straight edge of the fly facing. Set aside.

 

7. With RST, sew fly to right front leg. Grade seam allowance and press seam to one side. Under-stitch fly.

8. With RST, align and match front pieces along CF line and crotch. Stitch from bottom of fly to within 2” of the inseam.

9. With the fronts FACE UP, sew the fly facing FACE DOWN to the left front leg. (A) This will encase the zipper into the CF seam. Flip the zipper FACE UP and edge-stitch along the zipper teeth.

 

10. Lay the front of the shorts FACE UP. Align the CF line and smooth out the fly opening. Baste the fly opening shut. Once completed, fold the fronts in half with the left front leg on top. Pin back the fly facing to reveal the zipper FACE DOWN on the fly. Stitch the zipper tape to the fly. (B) Baste curved edge of fly to left front. Set aside.

 

11. On back section, sew up waist shaping darts.

12. Turn under 1” [25mm] of top edge of patch pockets and stitch down in place. Turn under and press seam allowance on perimeter of pockets.

13. Place patch pockets FACE UP on center of back pieces and align over darting 2” [50mm] from the top edge. Topstitch in place.

 

14. With RST, align and match back and front at the side seams. Baste/pin raw edges together along the outseam. Sew sides, ensuring to catch pocket bag in the seaming. Grade seam allowance and press seam towards the back section. With garment FACE UP, edge-stitch along the sideseam on the back section.

 

15. With RST, align and match back and front at the inseam. Baste/pin raw edges together along the inseam of each leg. Sew inseams and press seam open.

 

16. Pull one leg RIGHT SIDE OUT and drop down into other leg. Align and match up inner leg seam and CB seam. Baste/pin crotch seam. Sew seam from bottom of fly to top edge of back section (in a U-shape). Turn garment RIGHT SIDE OUT and set aside.

 

17. Turn under seam allowance on one long edge of waistband and press flat. Fold waistband in half , with RST and stitch up short ends, allowing for seam allowance. Trim corners and grade. Turn waistband RIGHT SIDE OUT.

 

18. Pin raw edge of  waistband FACE UP to inside edge of garment’s waistline, allowing for 2” [50mm] extension on left-hand side of waistband. Ease in waistline onto waistband. Fold a decorative pleat on front legs approximately 2” [50mm] from pocket opening to take up excess fabric in the shorts. (For an easier fit, allow 1 – 2 inches of ease in total on the body of the shorts.) Baste across top of pocket bag and pleat. Stitch waistband to waistline, ensuring to catch top of front pocket in the seaming. Grade seam allowance and turn up into waistband. Align and match folded edge of waistband to machine-stitching on FACE SIDE of garment. Edge-stitch the waistband to the garment.

 

19. With garment FACE UP, sew a J-stitch to secure the fly. Begin with a bar-tack at the bottom of the fly opening and topstitch the J-stitch following the basting thread markings up to the top, stitching through the waistband.

 

20. On each cuff bottom, turn up a 4” [100 mm] hem. Stitch down in place.

21. Fold up 3” [75mm] to create a cuff. Align the cuff at the inseam and outseam; and secure the cuff by the “stitch-in-the-ditch” method.

 

22. Hand-stitch sets of hooks and bars onto the waistband, in tandem just above the zipper.

Design Tip: Add belt loops to waistband to allow for your favourite belt.

 

HOODIE VEST

Featured: Dry Max Hooded Vest

Chill in a unisex hoodie vest.

You will need:

• Sweat suit fleece *
• Rib binding *
• 1 separating zipper (equal to CF less 1” [25mm])
• Coordinating thread
• Kraft paper

* yardage will depend upon finished length.

The featured hoodie vest from Australian label  Black and Blue is 28” long [71 cm].

MEASUREMENTS

Bust/Chest – measure around fullest part of upper torso,  just under the arms.

Hip/Seat – measure around the fullest part of seat, 9” [23 cm] below waistline.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waistline.

Shoulder – measure from side of neck to socket joint of arm.

Finished Length – measure vertically from nape of neck to desired length.

PATTERN

BACK SECTION

Square 2 lines from A at 90°.

A-B = 1” [25mm]

B-C = finished length + 1” [25mm]

B-D = ½  back waist length

Square across all points.

D-E = ½ bust or hip (whichever is greater) + 1” [25mm]

Square up and down from E to locate F and G.

D-H = 1/4 bust or hip (whichever is greater)

Square down from H to locate I.

B-J = 3 ⅜” [85 mm]

J-K = 1” [25mm]

Connect B to K with a shallow curve as shown.

K-L = shoulder length

L-M = 1 ⅜” [35mm]

Draw a construction line from M to H and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label points N and O.

Draw the back armhole with a smooth curve from M to H, passing through points 1 ⅜” [35mm] from N and 1 ½” [37mm] from O.

FRONT SECTION

F-P = 3 ½” [90mm]

F-Q = 3 ¼” [82mm]

Draw a construction line from P to Q and divide it into 2 equal parts. Label point R.

Draw the front neckline from P to Q passing through a point ¾” [20mm] from R.

Q-S = shoulder length

S-T = 1 ⅜” [35mm]

Draw a construction line from H to T and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label points U and V.

Draw the front armhole with a smooth curve from H to T, passing through points 2” [50mm] from U and 2 ¼” [57mm] from V.

G-W = ¾” [20mm]

Join I to W with a smooth curve. The corner at W is a 90°angle.

For the front facing, draw a line 3” [75mm] parallel to centerfront tapering to 1 ½” [37mm] at the shoulder-neck. Trace off the facing onto additional paper.

For the pocket, W-X = 10” [25.5 cm]

W-Y = 10” [25.5 cm]

Square up from Y; Y-Z = 5” [12.7 cm]

Draw a line from Z to intersection on facing point.

Trace off the pocket onto additional paper.

HOOD SECTION

Square 2 line from 1 at 90°.

1-2 = 13’ [33 cm]

1-3 = 10” [25.5 cm]

Square across from 2 and square up from 3 to locate 4 at the intersection.

3-5 = 3” [76 cm]

3-6 = front neckline mmt. + back neckline mmt. from body draft.

Draw a construction line from 5 to 6 and divide it into 2 equal parts. Label point 7.

Draw the neckline with a smooth curve between 5 and 6, passing through a point ½” [12mm] from point 7.

1-8 = 7 ¾” [19.8 cm]

2-9 = 6 ¼” [16 cm]

Join 8 to 9 with a curved line passing through a point 2 ¼” [57mm] from point 2.

For hood facing, 4-10 = 2” [5 cm]

5-11 = 2” [5 cm]

Join 10 to 11 and trace off neckline between 5 to 11.

Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces except hemline.

Grainlines are parallel to CF and CB.

CUTTING

Back – cut 1X self on fold

Front – cut 2X self

Front Facing – cut 2X self

Hood – cut 2X self

Pocket – cut 2X self

Cut rib binding to fit.

Design Tip: Use a contrast colour for the hood and rib binding

ASSEMBLY

1. Trim pocket opening with ribbed binding.
2. With pockets up-side down and FACE DOWN on CF, stitch top of pocket to fronts.
3. Flip pockets FACE UP and align with bottom edge of fronts. From the inside of the pocket, stitch short side from pocket opening to hem to the fronts. Baste the rest of the pocket to the fronts.
4. With fronts FACE UP, stitch zipper (separated) face down to CF and 1” [25mm] from bottom edge.
5. Align and match front facing to zippered edge with right sides facing together. Stitch facing to CF and 1” [25mm] from bottom edge. Trim bulk from bottom of facing at the hem and turn right side out.
6. Attach fronts to back at shoulders. Stitch shoulder seam and press open.
7. Trim armholes with ribbed binding.
8. With right sides together (RST), match side seams and sew fronts to back. Press seam towards back. Trim seam allowance or overlock and topstitch on FACE SIDE along the seam on back section.
9. Turn up hem 1” [25mm] and press. Open fold and re-fold raw edge to crease line. Fold up remainder of hem. Stitch down.
10. On FACE SIDE, topstitch hem edge including the front facing.
11. Align and match neck of front facing to neck of fronts. Secure front facing at the shoulder seam.
12. With fronts FACE UP, topstitch CF along zipper.
13. With RST, align and match top and CB of hood. Stitch center seam. Press to one side. Trim seam allowance or overlock and topstitch on FACE SIDE along hood’s center seam.
14. Neaten facing edge of hood with a seam finish or overlock.
15. With RST, align and pin/baste neckline of hood to body’s neckline. Wrap hood facing around the CF edge and back along neckline. Stitch hood to neckline. Trim and grade seam allowance.
16. Flip hood facing FACE UP and turn facing to inside the hood. Edge-stitch open edge of hood facing to the hood.
17. On FACE SIDE, topstitch along neckline seam.

 

SHOW TOPPER

Featured: Wrap Top by NY&Company

This wrap top draft by NY&Company is a flattering style for all shapes and sizes. A deep V-neck combined with a fluid fabric is forgiving to all body types.

You will need:

• approx. 2 ¼ yds. [2m] of fashion fabric, 45” [115 cm] wide
• approx. ½ yd. [0.5 m] fusible interfacing
• coordinating thread
• kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure around fullest part of chest, just below the arms.

Waist – measure narrowest part of torso, just above navel.

Shoulder – measure from neck to ball joint of arm.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waist.

Sleeve length – measure vertically from shoulder point to wrist.

Bicep – measure the fullest part of the upper arm.

PATTERN BACK SECTION

Square 2 lines from A at a 90° angle on the paper.

A-B = 1” [2.5cm]

B-C = back waist length

D = ½ of B-C

C-E = 6” [15.25 cm] Square all points across paper.

D-F = ¼ of bust + ¼” [0.6 cm]

Square down from F to locate G.

H is located on line square from C; H is ⅜” [1 cm] from line F-G.

Shape side seam from F to G, passing through point H as shown.

I is located midway C and H.

Square up and down from I to locate J and K.

I-J = 6” [15.25 cm] Draw a waist suppression dart from J to K; dart width at I = 1 ½” [3.75 cm] dart width at K = ½” [1.25 cm]

A-L = 3” [7.6 cm]

L-M = shoulder length

M-N = 1 ¼” [3.2 cm]

Join L to N.

Draw a construction line from N to F and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label points O and P.

Shape the back armhole from N to F, passing through points 1” [2.5 cm] from O and 1 ½” [3.75 cm] from P as shown.

Grainline is parallel to CB.

FRONT SECTION

Square 2 lines from (a) at a 90° angle on the paper.

a-b = A-E

a-c = A-D

Square all points across paper.

a-d = 9 ½” [24 cm]

Square down from (d) to locate (e) and (f).

c-g = ¼ of bust + 7” [17.75 cm]

d-h = shoulder length

h-i = 1 ⅜” [3.5 cm]

Join (d) to (i).

Draw a construction line from (i) to (g) and divide it into 3 equal parts. Ladel (j) and (k).

Shape the front armhole from (i) to (g) passing through points 1 ⅜” [3.5 cm] from (j) and 2” [5 cm] from (k) as shown.

f-l = 2 ¼” [5.7 cm]

i-m = 5 ¾” [14.7 cm]

m-n = 1” [2.5 cm]

Join (n) to (l).

Square down from (g).

g-o = C-D Join (n) to (o).

e-p = 1 ¼” [3.25 cm]

Square down from (p).

p-q = 2” [5 cm].

Join (l) and (q).

Square a line from (o) across to locate (r) at intersection.

Draw a waist suppression dart  from (l) to (q); dart width at (r) = 1 ¾” [4.5 cm] and dart width at (l) = 2 ⅜” [6 cm] as shown.

c-s = 5 ¼” [13.2 cm] c-t = c-s Join (s) to (t).

Draw a construction line from (d) to (s) and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label the top third, (u).

Shape a smooth curve from (d) to (s) passing through a point 1 ⅜” [3.5 cm] from (u).

b-v = 1” [2.5 cm].

Shape a smooth curve from (f) to (v).

Grainline is parallel to line d-f.

SLEEVE SECTION

aa-bb = 1/2 of sleeve length – 2” [5 cm].

aa-cc = 5 ½” [14 cm]

cc-dd = ½ bicep + ⅜” [1 cm}

cc-ee = ½ bicep + ¾” [2 cm]

Draw a construction line from aa to dd and ee and divide each line into 3 equal parts. Label ff, gg, hh, and ii.

Shape the front sleeve cap with a smooth curve from aa to gg and continue to dd passing through a point ½” [1.25 cm] from ff, as shown.

Shape the back sleeve cap with a smooth curve from aa passing through at point ⅝” [1.6 cm] from hh to ii and continue with a shallow curve to ee, as shown.

bb-jj = ½ bicep

bb-kk = ½ bicep

Join dd to kk and ee to jj.

Draw a 1” [2.5 cm] turn up parallel to jj-kk.

Grainline is parallel to aa-bb.

COLLAR SECTION

Fold paper in half and place CB of back section on foldline.

Trace off back neckline and shoulder on to  paper. Align front and back shoulders at L and trace off front neckline.

Square up from L. L-1 = A-L

Square across from 1 to locate 2.

2-3 = 3” [7.6 cm]

Draw 3-4-5 parallel to the neckline.

Grainline is parallel to centerback, B-5.

TIE SECTION

1-2 = 2” [5 cm]

2-3 = 2” [5 cm]

1-4 = 2 x waist

3-5 = 1-4

5-6 = 2-3

4-7 = 4-6

5-8 = 5-6

Join 6 to 7 and 8.

Grainline is parallel to line 2-6.

Note: Add ¾” [2 cm] seam allowance to perimeter of pattern pieces except for sleeve bottoms.

Add ⅜” [1 cm] seam allowance to tie pattern piece.

CUTTING

Back – cut 1X self on fold

Fronts – cut 2X self

Sleeves – cut 2X self

Collar – cut 2X self

Ties – cut 2X self

Collar Interfacing – cut 1X fusible on fold

ASSEMBLY

1. Iron fusible interfacing to under-collar following manufacturer’s directions.
2. Turn under neckline seam allowance on under-collar and press.
3. With right sides facing together (RST), align under-collar to top-collar. Run stitch around collar perimeter leaving neckline open. Trim corners and grade seams. Turn right side out and press flat. Set aside.
4. Fold tie lengthwise with RST and align raw edges; match up diagonal end. Stitch tie leaving blunt short end open. Trim and grade seam allowance. Turn right side out and press flat. Repeat for second tie. Set aside.
5. Sew up waist suppression darts on back and fronts.
6. With RST, match fronts to back at shoulder. Stitch shoulder seam and press open.
7. Align and match top-collar to back neckline with collar FACE to wrong side of body and extend over shoulder seams.
8. Sew collar to neckline of garment. Clip seam allowance on front edge where the collar connects. Turn in the seam allowance at the neck into the collar and align the folded edge of the under-collar to the machine-stitching. Slip-stitch bottom edge of under-collar to body.
9. With RST, align and match sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve caps to armholes.
10. With RST, join fronts to back by aligning and matching side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch all in one motion from sleeve bottoms to hemline. On right front side only, leave a 2” [5 cm] slit opening at the waistline on the side seam.
11. To finish the garment, turn in ⅜” [1cm] along the front neckline, then turn in ⅜” [1cm] once more. Topstitch in place (be careful not to stretch the neckline as you sew.)
12. Do the same double-turned roll on the hemline.
13. Turn under the vertical front edges of the garment ⅜” [1cm] towards the inside of the garment. Turn under again by ⅜” [1cm]. As you topstitch the turn down, attach a tie to each front just below the neckline edge by encasing the open end of the tie in the seaming. Once the topstitch is complete, fold the tie over the garment edge and secure in place with a second row of topstitching.
14. Turn the sleeve bottoms up ½” [0.6 cm] and press; then turn up ½” [0.6cm] more and hem.

 

ROCKER-CHIC

Featured: Purple Label Zip Skirt

Everybody’s getting into the rocker-chic zipper skirts.

 

You will need:

• 2-way stretch fashion fabric, 45” wide (spandex blend)
• 1 separating zipper (equal to desired skirt length less 1 inch [25mm])
• India stay tape, ¼” [6mm] wide (approx. the waist measurement + 6” [15 cm])
• Matching polyester thread
• Schmetz Stretch Needle®
• Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso, just above the navel.

Hip – measure around fullest part of seat, about 9” [23 cm]  below waistline.

Finished Hem Length – measure vertically from waist to desired skirt length.

The featured skirt from Purple Label is 19 inches long [48.5 cm]

PATTERN DRAFT

Draw 2 lines vertically and across on kraft paper at a 90° angle. Label point A.

A-B = skirt finished length

A-C = 9” [23 cm]

Square lines across all points.

C-D = ½ of hip measurement + ½ ” [6mm]

Square a line up and down from D to locate E and F.

C-G = ¼ of the hip measurement + 1” [25mm]

Square up to locate H.

I and J are 1” [25mm] on either side of H.

Join I and J to G to create a gently shaped dart, as shown.

K = midway G and D; square up and down to locate L and M.

C-N = D-K; square up and down to locate O and P.

B-Q = 1” [25mm]

M-R = 1” [25mm]

To shape waist, determine the difference between the hip and waist measurements.

Divide the difference by 4 and draw a gently shaped dart equal to this amount at L and O, with the dart facing the centerline.

NOTE: If the dart amount is greater than 1” [25mm], distribute the amount equally on either side of L and O.

To draft the skirt facing, trace off A-O-J-G-N-C and I-L-K-G on additional paper down to the hipline.

Close dart on back piece by folding it out.

Trace out new shape and smooth a gentle curve at the chevrons.

Trace out I-L-K-G for the side front facing.

Add ½” [12mm] seam allowances to all pattern pieces except hemline.

Grainline is parallel to selvedges to allow for the greatest stretch to go around the girth.

CUTTING

Determine the direction of greatest stretch of the fabric. It is usually the crosswise grain of the fabric eg. perpendicular to the selvedges.

Cut skirt front 4X self

Cut skirt side 2X self

Cut skirt back 1X on fold

Cut skirt back facing 1X on fold

Cut skirt side facing 2X self

ASSEMBLY

Sewing Tip: Use a stretch sewing machine needle for this project. Whenever sewing horizontal seams, find the “sweet spot” of the elasticity to allow for the stretch of the fabric.

1. Sew up side darts.

2. Insert separating zipper onto CF edges from top edge to ■.

Design Tip: For skirt hems below the knee, try a 2-way slider on the zipper for easy walking.

3. Sew one side panel to each skirt front.

4. Sew skirt back to side panels.

5. With skirt body FACE up, edge-stitch all vertical seams (have seam allowance directed toward the “side seam”)

For skirt facing:

6. Sew side front facings to each side of back facing.

7. Sew remaining 2 skirt fronts to each of the side front facings.

8. With skirt facing FACE up, edge-stitch all vertical seams (have seam allowance directed towards the centers).

Finishing the skirt:

9. With right side facing together, align and match top edge of skirt facing to skirt body.

10. Cut the stay tape equal to the body measurement where you like to wear your skirts. (approximately 2″ [50mm] below waistline)

11. Pin/baste stay tape in place and sew top edge of skirt along the stay tape.

12. Align and match front facing to skirt body along zipper edge. Sew CF seams and hemline. Turn skirt right side out. Pin/baste un-sewn facing edge to  seam allowance of seam nearest to the CF zipper. Sew together. Separate zipper and topstitch CF along zipper.

13. Turn up hem 1” [25mm] and double top-stitch hem in place.

14. Secure the lower edge of the skirt facing to the skirt body by tacking together the seam allowances at the vertical seams only.

 

REVERSIBLE WRAP SKIRT

Featured: Wrap Skirt by Charlotte Russe

Cut for a gracious A-line sweep, this pretty printed lined skirt reverses to a solid colour for double the dressing options. Great for travel or everyday wear, this easy wrap style design, similar to this one from Charlotte Russe, is a simple drafting project with a very forgiving fit.

You will need:

• Fashion fabric A *
• Fashion fabric B *
• Fusible interfacing
• Coordinating thread
• 4 buttons, 7/8” [21.5 mm] dia., line 34
• Kraft paper

* amount required will depend upon skirt sweep and desired length.

Design Tip: Select a printed fashion fabric and choose the dominant or background colour in the surface pattern as the solid colour match for the contrast fashion fabric.

MEASUREMENTS

Waist – measure around narrower part of torso just above the navel.

Hip – measure around fullest part of the seat, about 9” [23cm] below waistline.

Finished Hem Length – measure vertically from waistline to desired length (see chart below)

PATTERN DRAFT

Draw a T shape with the vertical base equal to the Finished Hem Length (FHL) and the centered horizontal top equal to ¼ of the Waist measurement (W).

Measure vertically from the top of the T shape 9” [23cm] and square across. Plot ¼ of the Hip measurement (H) and center it on this line.

Draw a tangent line by joining A and B and extend it to the hemline at C on both sides of center, as illustrated.

On the tangent line, measure the Finished Hem Length from A to D. Place the set-square at D and square a line from this point, blending smoothly into the hem. Repeat on opposite side.

For the waistband, trace top portion on skirt panel, matching sides at A and B, 5 times onto additional paper. Smooth the chevrons into a gentle curve. Draw a parallel line 1 ½” [4 cm] above the tracing. At each end, square a line upward from the tracing.

Add ½” [12mm] seam allowance to skirt panel pattern and the waistband pattern. Grainline is the centerline.

CUTTING

Cut 5 panels for each fabric. **

Cut 2 waistbands in contrast fabric.

Cut 2 interfacings for waistband.

** Note: Select fabrics in compatible weights and fiber content to allow for simple maintenance care.

ASSEMBLY

1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of waistband pieces following manufacturer’s directions.
2. Turn under the bottom edge seam allowance on one of the waistband pieces and press flat.
3. With right side facing together, align and match raw edges of the waistband and pin/baste together. Stitch up the two short ends and the top edge of the waistband. Trim corners and grade seam allowance. Turn waistband right side out and press flat. Set aside.
4. Pin/baste 2 pair of panels matching at A, B, and D with right sides facing together. Sew and press seams open.
5. Align and match each pair on sides of remaining panel at A, B, and D and sew together. Press seams open. Set aside.
6. Repeat STEP 4 and 5 for contrasting skirt panels.
7. With right side facing together, layer the set of skirt panels and align outer edges. Pin/baste and sew the perimeter edges, leaving the top un-sewn. Trim corners and press seams open. Grade seam allowances to reduce bulk.
8. Turn skirt right side out and press flat. Topstitch perimeter of skirt, if desired.
9. Baste upper open edge together and match raw edge of waistband to top edge of skirt. Pin/baste and sew together.
10. Turn all seam allowances to inside of waistband and align folded edge to machine-stitching on skirt waistline. Edge-stitch around perimeter of the waistband.
11. Stitch a 1” [25 mm] buttonhole on each end of waistband. Position it ¾” [20mm] from the short end.
12. Wrap the skirt around the waist to locate the placement of the buttons. At each location, sew a button on either side of the waistband (2 buttons anchored to one another) to make the skirt reversible.
13. Measure the distance between the button locations to determine the location of the second set of buttonholes on the waistband. Stitch a 1″ [25mm] buttonhole.

 

BANDS OF BOLD

Featured: Escada Wrap

Here are my favourite bold colour combos for cosy sueded fabrics for those of you planning your new wrap for the spring/summer season. Just in case it looks intimidating, rest assured this is a patternless fashion design (a simple block draft) where the beauty of the fabric shines and bold colour is the star.

You will need:

• 1 yd [90cm] of fashion fabric, 60” [150cm] wide in colour A*
• 1 yd [90cm] of fashion fabric, 60” [150cm] wide in colour B*
• 12 yd. [11m] of double-side flat braid, 2” [50mm] wide
• Matching crochet yarn (pearl cotton or wool) to make 11 tassels
• Coordinating thread

Designer Tip:

* Analogous colour schemes – use any colour that lie adjacent to each other on the colour wheel. Your choice of hue may be any tint, shade, or tone.

• Red + Orange
• Red + Violet
• Yellow + Green
• Yellow + Orange
• Blue + Green
• Blue + Violet

DIMENSIONS: Approx. 60” X 60” [150 cm X 150cm].

CUTTING

Cut each fabric across its width to create two pairs of panel equal to 16” X 60” [40.5cm X 150cm].  Alternatively, if you desire a longer wrap, cut the panels along the fabric’s length to the desired finished length. (You will need to purchase extra fabric).

ASSEMBLY

1. Make 11 tassel from yarn. (I used black embroidery wool) Make the cardboard template equal to twice the length of the finished tassel and fold it in half. Wind yarn around template as thick as you desire. Tie off across top and cut through bottom with scissors. Wrap more yarn around the top end and create a tassel.

2.  Sew one panel of each colour together (I used double-sided microfibre sand-washed silk) with wrong sides facing. Press seam open.

3. Sew each pair together with wrong sides facing, allowing one end of seam to be open for 35” [89cm]. Press seam open and seam allowances flat on face side of fabric.
Apply flat braid (I used black grosgrain ribbon) over the seam allowances of the three seams.

4. Sew flat braid to edge of center opening in fabric, folding ribbon in a mitre at the turn.

5. Sew flat braid to perimeter of fabric, beginning and completing at the center slit opening and miter ribbon braid at each corner.

6. Attach a tassel to corners of wrap and at each seam intersection. (6 total on front hem and 5 total on back hem)

 

THE CHEMISE SUNDRESS

Featured: Simplicity

The button-front “chemise” sundress— the quintessential of summer attire – is easy to wear, unrestrictive and yet not without that “sophisticated look”. This summer, you’ll find the sundresses  will be both elegant and appealing. And I am sure that because of its easy patterndraft, this lovely addition to your summer wardrobe will inspire you with your favourite fashion fabric.

You will need:

• 1 ½ yds. [1.5 m] of Fashion fabric, 60” [150 cm]wide
• 1 ¼ yds. [1.2 m] of Fusible interfacing 24” [60 cm] wide
• 12 buttons, 7/8” [22 mm] dia., line 34
• Coordinating thread
• Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure around fullest part of chest, just under the arms.

Hips –  measure around fullest part of seat, about 8” [20 cm] below waistline.

Back waist length – measure distance from nape of neck to waistline

PATTERN

A-B = back waist length

B-C = 2 times back waist length (or desired finished length**)

B-D = 4” [10cm]

Square across all points.

D-E = 1/2 of hip or bust measurement (whichever is the greater)

Square up and down from E to locate G, H.

I = half distance of A to B.

Square across to locate J.

I-K = 2” [5cm]; square across to locate L.

J-M = 3” [7.5 cm]

N = half distance of I to J.

Square down from N to locate O, P, and R.

N-Q = 1” [2.5 cm];  I-S = 1” [2.5 cm];  join M to Q.

T = half distance of B to P.

Square up and down from T to locate U and V.

L-W = 3” [7.5 cm]

H-X = 3” [7.5 cm]

Join W and X with a straight line.

Measure 1” [2.5 cm] on either side of P. Shape sideseam by joining Q and R with a smooth curve passing through the points on either side of P.

Measure ½” [12 mm] either side of T. Make a shaping dart by joining U and V with a smooth curve passing through the points on either side of T. (optional)

PINTUCKS

Trace out A-G-K-L.

Add ½” [12mm] at K and L. Join new points with a straight line.

Divide rectangle horizontally with 1 ½” [4 cm] intervals (3 in total) to create the pintucks.

Each pintuck is ½” [12 mm] wide with 1” [25 mm] spacing. (see diagram)

Trace out on fold S-Q-R-O-C for the dress back.

Trace out J-N-O-R-Q-M for the dress front.

Trace out L-W-X-N for the front placket.

Trace out on fold K-L-J-I for the dress facing.

Add ½” [12 mm] seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

Add 1 ¼” [ 32 mm] hem allowance to dress back and fronts.

**Design Note: This patterndraft can be shorten to waistline for a smart summer camisole.

CUTTING

Cut BACK 1X self on fold

Cut FRONTS 2X self

Cut FACING 1X self on fold; 1X interfacing on fold

Cut PLACKET 2X self; 2X interfacing.

Cut PINTUCKS 1X self on fold

Cut 2 SHOULDER STRAPS =  16” long X 1” wide

[40 cm x 2.5 cm]

ASSEMBLY

1. Make 2 shoulder straps ¼” [6mm] wide.
2. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of dress facing and both placket pieces, following manufacturer’s directions.
3. Make the pintuck border. Beginning at the top edge, turn under 1 ½” [4cm] and press. Stitch ½” [12 mm] parallel to folded edge. From stitching, turn under 1” [25mm] and press. Stitch ½” [12mm] parallel to pressed edge. From stitching, turn under 1” [25 mm] and press. Set aside.
4. Stitch the suppression darts on the back piece. (optional)
5. Stitch fronts to back along side seams. Press seam open.
6. Align and match bottom edge of pintuck border to top edge of dress. Pin/baste with right sides facing together. Machine stitch. Grade seam allowance and press upward.
7. From face side, baste along seamline (while tucking in the seam allowance) to complete last pintuck. From last pressed fold, stitch ½” [12 mm] parallel to seamline.
8. Press all pintucks downward on the face side of the dress.
9. Set shoulder straps in place on front and back. Baste to top edge of border.
10. Align and match dress facing to top edge of dress ensuring the straps are caught in the seam. Pin/baste in place. Machine stitch the seam. Grade seam allowance and press to one side. Understitch facing. Finish bottom of facing by turning under ¼” [6 mm] then topstitching. Turn facing to inside of dress.
11. With right side of placket to wrong side of dress fronts, pin/baste placket to each front (allowing for seam allowance at top and hem). Stitch seam and press to one side.
12. On opposite side of placket, turn under seam allowance and press flat. Fold the short ends of the placket back on itself and stitch across top and bottom. Trim corners, then  turn plackets right side out. Align the pressed edge to the row of machine stitching and topstitch closed.
13. On the right front placket, divide the length equally for 12 1-inch [2.5 cm] vertical buttonholes spaced 3 inches [7.5 cm] apart from the top. Position the first buttonhole 1″ [2.5cm] from the top of the dress front opening.
14. On the left front placket, sew on the buttons.

 

CLOCHE HAT

Featured: Cloche hat from Banana Republic

A buckled cloche for Spring.  Easy-peasy and pretty!

You will need:

• Graph paper
• approx. 1 yd. of fusible interfacing, 45″ wide
• approx. 1 yd. of bottom-weight or upholstery fashion fabric, 54″-60″ wide
• approx. 1/2 yd. of lining fabric, 45″ wide
• approx. 3/4 yd. of grosgrain ribbon, 2″ wide
• 1 belt buckle, 1 ½” wide
• coordinating thread

DIMENSIONS

This hat draft is a medium size for a head circumference of approximately 23” [58.5cm].

PATTERN

Grid: 1 square = 1 inch [25 mm]

Add ½  inch seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

Trace out and cut pattern shapes on fold of graph paper.

CUTTING

Cut the crown side 2X; lining 2X ; interfacing 2X

Cut the crown top 1X; lining 1X; interfacing 1X

Cut the brim 2X; interfacing 1X

Cut the belt strap 2X; interfacing 1X

Cut the sweatband (grosgrain ribbon) 24” long  X 2″ wide.

ASSEMBLY

1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of each crown piece and to one of each of the brim and strap pairs, following manufacturer’s directions.
2. On each brim piece, pin and baste CB seam with right side together. Stitch seam using a ½” seam allowance and press open.
3. Layer the 2 brim pieces with right sides facing together and align the CB seams. Pin/baste outer edges together. Sew around the perimeter of the brim.
4. Grade and trim the seam allowance and turn brim right side out. Press outer edge flat.
TIP: Due to fabric thickness, it is important to grade the seam allowances as you sew. The bulk will reduce the headfitting measurement. You may also take less of the seam allowance to account for the bulk.

5. Topstitch outer edge of brim.  (I use the width of the presser foot as a spacer.) The more stitching you put, the stiffer the brim. Set aside.
6. Layer the belt strap pieces with right sides facing together. Align and match up raw edges and pin/baste together. Machine-stitch across one short end and along the 2 long edges. Grade and trim seam allowances and turn strap right side out. Press outer edges flat. Topstitch around perimeter of the strap. Set aside.
7. Pin/baste the side pieces to the top section, with right sides facing together. Ease the straight edges into the curved ones. Machine-stitch the 2 side seams of the crown portion. Press the seam open. (You may need to clip the seam allowance to get it to lie flat.) Turn the crown right side out.
8. Repeat the same method for the hat lining. Insert the lining into the hat crown with wrong sides facing together. Baste lining to crown around the circumference of the crown.
9. Align the CF and CB and the Xs of the crown and the brim. Match up these points, pin and basting with right sides together. Machine stitch the crown section to the brim, using a ½” seam allowance.
10. Sew in grosgrain ribbon as a “sweatband”. This should equal the head fitting measurement. Lay the ribbon on top of the seam allowance along the top of the brim and edge stitch along the ribbon edge. Overlap at CB. Grade and trim  the seam allowance . Turn the ribbon up into the crown to conceal the raw edge of the seam allowance and tack to CB of hat with hand stitching.
11. On the left side of the hat exterior above the seamline of the brim, handstitch the open end of the belt strap to the center of the crown side piece using a narrow seam allowance. (Do this with the belt strap pointing to the front of the hat.) Fold the strap back onto itself and slip on the buckle. Wrap the strap around the hat’s crown and slip loose end into the buckle. (Add punched eyelets if you are using a pronged belt buckle).

 

ISLAND FLOUNCER

Courtesy: Vogue

A flirty flouncer has that button-to-hem flippancy and shows lots of sun-kissed shoulder.

A very easy sundress draft to get you in that tantalizing “island-in-the-sun” attitude.

You will need:

• Approx. 2 – 2 ¼ yds [1.8 – 2m] of fashion fabric, 45″ [114 cm] wide
• 2.5 yds. [2.3 m] of pre-cut interfacing, 1″ [2.5 cm] wide
• 1 pkg. of single fold bias tape, ½” [12.5 mm] wide
• 1 yd of elastic, 3/8″ [10 mm] wide
• 8 buttons, line 20; ½” [12.5 mm] diameter
• Coordinating thread
• Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust = measure around the fullest part of chest just under the arms.

Hip = measure around the fullest part of the seat about 9″ [23 cm] below the natural waist.

Back waist length = distance from nape of neck to natural waistline.

PATTERN

This pattern is drafted by height.

Make a SQUARE template with length and width equal to your Back Waist Length.

On the kraft paper, square lines from X at 90 degrees.

The line squared down from X is the length. It equals the centerline. (dress length)

Along the length line of the paper, set up A-B-C as shown.

Across the width line of the paper, set up C-D-E-F as shown.

1. On square A, divide the length into 3 equal parts.

Add 1 inch [25 mm] at the first division by marking a parallel line above the division line.

Subtract the difference between your hips and bust measurements on this new line, opposite the centerline.

Join this point to the bottom corner of square B with a straight line.

Cut pattern  piece A-B out.*

This is the pattern piece for the front and back of the dress.

2. Save remaining piece of square A for O.*

This is the pattern piece for the shoulder straps.

3. Parallel to the centerline, draft K piece from X and make it 2 inches [50 mm] wide.

Cut pattern piece K out.*

This is the pattern piece for the front button placket.

4. Along the top edge of C-D-E-F, add 1 inch [25 mm] by marking a parallel line above the squares.

Along the bottom edge of C-D-E-F, add ½ inch [12.5 mm] by marking a parallel line below the squares.

Label centerline on square C.

Cut out pattern  piece C-D-E-F.*

This is the pattern piece for the flounce of the dress.

* Note: Add seam allowances to pattern pieces.

Grainline is parallel to centerline.

CUTTING

Dress Back – cut 1X self on fold

Dress Fronts – cut 1X self on fold

Button Placket – cut 2X self

Shoulder Straps – cut 2X self

Flounce – cut 2X self

Interfacing – cut 2 strips equal to dress length

ASSEMBLY

1. For the shoulder straps, fold each O piece lengthwise with right sides together (RST).
2. Stitch along the long edge. Press seam open.
3. Stitch across one short end. Grade and clip corners. Turn strap right side out. Press flat.
4. Make 2 shoulder straps. Set aside.
5. For flounce, cut one of the two fabric pieces in half. Align and match each short piece to either side of the long piece with RST at the short ends. Pin/baste and sew the seams. Press seams open. Finish  the raw seam edge (I used pinking shears).
6. Hem the bottom edge of the flounce by turning under ¼” [0.7 mm] and then ¼” [0.7mm] again. Press turnings. Machine stitch in place.
7. Then, turn upper edge down 1 inch [25 mm] to make a heading for the flounce, and baste. Gather fabric along the basting. Set aside.
8. For the dress fronts, cut one folded fabric piece in half. Align and match each front piece to either side of the back piece with RST at the side seams. Pin/baste and sew the seams. Press seams open. Finish  the raw seam edge (I used pinking shears).
9. Turn upper edge of dress down 1 inch to make a gathered ruffle, and baste. Apply the bias fold tape on top of the raw edge of the turned dress edge. At this time, place one shoulder strap under the top edge of the bias fold tape and locate it in the middle of the front pieces. Make a casing for the elastic by stitching on both sides of the tape’s edge, ensuring you catch the raw end of the shoulder straps.
10. On the bottom of the dress, apply the flounce to the bottom edge. Gather along the lower edge of the heading and distribute the gathers evenly. Pin/baste flounce in place. Stitch on top of the first stitching to secure the gathers to the dress.
11. Wrap elastic over the bosom and stretch to a comfortable fit. Cut elastic to that length. Thread elastic through casing to shirr the top and secure at each end with stitching.
12. Fold each button placket piece (K) in half lengthwise with wrong side together. Press fold. Open each placket piece and baste the interfacing strips to one half by aligning with foldline.
13. Pin/baste each placket piece to the front edge of the dress from the top edge down to the hem of the flounce with right sides of the placket facing the wrong side of the dress. (Note: Remember to allow for seam allowances at top and bottom edges). Stitch plackets to dress.
14. On opposite side of placket, turn under seam allowances and press. Then turn under the seam allowances on the short ends. Press. Align and match the turned edges of the placket to the stitched seam of the front edge to encase the raw edges and topstitch the plackets to the dress.
15. Divide the right hand side placket into 8 equally spaced vertical buttonholes. Make buttonholes.
16. On the left hand side placket, hand-sew 8 buttons to align with buttonholes.
17. Try dress on and drape dress straps over shoulder and pin to fit. Hand stitch ends of straps securely to inside of dress on bias tape.