ISLAND FLOUNCER

Courtesy: Vogue

A flirty flouncer has that button-to-hem flippancy and shows lots of sun-kissed shoulder.

A very easy sundress draft to get you in that tantalizing “island-in-the-sun” attitude.

You will need:

• Approx. 2 – 2 ¼ yds [1.8 – 2m] of fashion fabric, 45″ [114 cm] wide
• 2.5 yds. [2.3 m] of pre-cut interfacing, 1″ [2.5 cm] wide
• 1 pkg. of single fold bias tape, ½” [12.5 mm] wide
• 1 yd of elastic, 3/8″ [10 mm] wide
• 8 buttons, line 20; ½” [12.5 mm] diameter
• Coordinating thread
• Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust = measure around the fullest part of chest just under the arms.

Hip = measure around the fullest part of the seat about 9″ [23 cm] below the natural waist.

Back waist length = distance from nape of neck to natural waistline.

PATTERN

This pattern is drafted by height.

Make a SQUARE template with length and width equal to your Back Waist Length.

On the kraft paper, square lines from X at 90 degrees.

The line squared down from X is the length. It equals the centerline. (dress length)

Along the length line of the paper, set up A-B-C as shown.

Across the width line of the paper, set up C-D-E-F as shown.

1. On square A, divide the length into 3 equal parts.

Add 1 inch [25 mm] at the first division by marking a parallel line above the division line.

Subtract the difference between your hips and bust measurements on this new line, opposite the centerline.

Join this point to the bottom corner of square B with a straight line.

Cut pattern  piece A-B out.*

This is the pattern piece for the front and back of the dress.

2. Save remaining piece of square A for O.*

This is the pattern piece for the shoulder straps.

3. Parallel to the centerline, draft K piece from X and make it 2 inches [50 mm] wide.

Cut pattern piece K out.*

This is the pattern piece for the front button placket.

4. Along the top edge of C-D-E-F, add 1 inch [25 mm] by marking a parallel line above the squares.

Along the bottom edge of C-D-E-F, add ½ inch [12.5 mm] by marking a parallel line below the squares.

Label centerline on square C.

Cut out pattern  piece C-D-E-F.*

This is the pattern piece for the flounce of the dress.

* Note: Add seam allowances to pattern pieces.

Grainline is parallel to centerline.

CUTTING

Dress Back – cut 1X self on fold

Dress Fronts – cut 1X self on fold

Button Placket – cut 2X self

Shoulder Straps – cut 2X self

Flounce – cut 2X self

Interfacing – cut 2 strips equal to dress length

ASSEMBLY

1. For the shoulder straps, fold each O piece lengthwise with right sides together (RST).
2. Stitch along the long edge. Press seam open.
3. Stitch across one short end. Grade and clip corners. Turn strap right side out. Press flat.
4. Make 2 shoulder straps. Set aside.
5. For flounce, cut one of the two fabric pieces in half. Align and match each short piece to either side of the long piece with RST at the short ends. Pin/baste and sew the seams. Press seams open. Finish  the raw seam edge (I used pinking shears).
6. Hem the bottom edge of the flounce by turning under ¼” [0.7 mm] and then ¼” [0.7mm] again. Press turnings. Machine stitch in place.
7. Then, turn upper edge down 1 inch [25 mm] to make a heading for the flounce, and baste. Gather fabric along the basting. Set aside.
8. For the dress fronts, cut one folded fabric piece in half. Align and match each front piece to either side of the back piece with RST at the side seams. Pin/baste and sew the seams. Press seams open. Finish  the raw seam edge (I used pinking shears).
9. Turn upper edge of dress down 1 inch to make a gathered ruffle, and baste. Apply the bias fold tape on top of the raw edge of the turned dress edge. At this time, place one shoulder strap under the top edge of the bias fold tape and locate it in the middle of the front pieces. Make a casing for the elastic by stitching on both sides of the tape’s edge, ensuring you catch the raw end of the shoulder straps.
10. On the bottom of the dress, apply the flounce to the bottom edge. Gather along the lower edge of the heading and distribute the gathers evenly. Pin/baste flounce in place. Stitch on top of the first stitching to secure the gathers to the dress.
11. Wrap elastic over the bosom and stretch to a comfortable fit. Cut elastic to that length. Thread elastic through casing to shirr the top and secure at each end with stitching.
12. Fold each button placket piece (K) in half lengthwise with wrong side together. Press fold. Open each placket piece and baste the interfacing strips to one half by aligning with foldline.
13. Pin/baste each placket piece to the front edge of the dress from the top edge down to the hem of the flounce with right sides of the placket facing the wrong side of the dress. (Note: Remember to allow for seam allowances at top and bottom edges). Stitch plackets to dress.
14. On opposite side of placket, turn under seam allowances and press. Then turn under the seam allowances on the short ends. Press. Align and match the turned edges of the placket to the stitched seam of the front edge to encase the raw edges and topstitch the plackets to the dress.
15. Divide the right hand side placket into 8 equally spaced vertical buttonholes. Make buttonholes.
16. On the left hand side placket, hand-sew 8 buttons to align with buttonholes.
17. Try dress on and drape dress straps over shoulder and pin to fit. Hand stitch ends of straps securely to inside of dress on bias tape.