XOX SKIRT

Featured: Victoria Secret Peasant Skirt

You’ll ♥ this easy-to-sew skirt…XOX.

You will need:

• Approx. 1 ½  to 3 yds. of fashion fabric (depends on fabric weight and width)
• Coordinating thread
• Heavy-duty topstitching/upholstery thread

MEASUREMENTS

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso (just above navel level)

Hips – measure around the fullest part of the seat, about 8” [20cm] below the waistline.

Finished Skirt Length – measure vertically from waist to desired hemline.

PATTERN

This is a simple block draft. You can plot it directly onto your fabric but you will need to determine the dimensions of the panels you are going to cut.

(This also will help you determine how much fabric to purchase.)

Designer Tip: If you wish to use a printed fabric, look for a print that has been “railroaded”, that is the print runs along the fabric’s length. That way, you needn’t piece the fabric together to create the tiers.

XOX Block Draft

Measure the hip. You may round up the measurement to the nearest ½” [12mm].

O = (hip measurement + 2” [5cm] ) divided by 2.

Next, determine the desired length of each tier; divide the finished skirt length by the number of tiers you desire. You may round up to the nearest ½” [12 mm]. The featured model from Victoria’s Secret has 3 tiers and is approximately 21″ [53.5cm] long.

X = (finished skirt length + 2 ½ ” [6.5 cm] ) divided by 3.

For example: for a size 14 hip measurement of approximately 38” [96.5 cm] and the finished skirt of approximately 21″ [53.5 cm] long, the tiers are 7 ¾ ” [19.5 cm] long.

Again, you may round your answer a little if needed; this is not exactly rocket science.

O = 20” [51cm]

X =  8” [24 cm]

Time to plot and cut.

Determine if the fabric print runs up-and-down OR railroaded (sideways) on the surface.

Now to add fullness to each panel width.  Gathering is usually a 2:1 ratio.  (If you choose a thin/lightweight fabric you may need a greater ratio.)

You will cut 2 panels to make each tier. (skirt front & back).

Plot a 2” [50 mm] band across the fabric’s width OR length. (see  layout diagram)

Set up XOX block as illustrated.

Top Panel = 1 block

Middle Panel = 2 blocks

Bottom Panel = 3 blocks

Designer Tip: Short on fabric? Try cutting the second tier in a contrasting colour or fabric.

Now you have all of your skirt pieces and are ready to start sewing!

*Designer Tip: Embellish your tier panels with flat ribbons or braids if desired.

ASSEMBLY

1. Attach the pair of 2” [50 mm] bands together at one short end to create a drawstring. Fold along its length and press flat. Open the fold and turn in raw edges ¼” [6 mm]. Refold and edgestitch along the length on the open side, then along the fold side. Knot each end.

2. With right sides facing each other, sew the side seams together on each pair of panels using ½” [12 mm] seam allowance. Edge finish each of these seams with an overlock machine if you have access to one, otherwise trim with pinking shears to keep the raw edges from unraveling. Press seams open. There are now 3 “loops” of fabric, one for each tier.

3. At this point, sew a narrow double-rolled hem around the entire bottom edge of the lower tier. Press up 1/2″ [12 mm], open the fabric back out, and press the raw edge in to meet the first crease. Sew the rolled hem.

4. Edge finish the upper edge of the top tier. Fold 1 ¼” [30 mm] to the inside and press to form a casing for the elastic. Turn raw edge under ¼” [6 mm] then stitch about 1″ [25 mm] from the fold all the way around.

5. On the top edges of the middle and bottom tiers (and with right sides facing up), sew a wide zigzag machine-stitch over the heavy-duty thread all the way around the seam allowance.

6. Starting with the bottom tier, grasp the heavy-duty thread ends and start pulling gently to form gathers in the fabric. When the circumference of this edge matches that of the lower edge of the middle tier, stop and tie your thread ends together to keep everything in place. Then slide the gathers around until you are happy that they are distributed fairly evenly.

7. Flip the middle tier inside out so that the right sides (the face of the fabric) are facing each other and pin it to the bottom tier — the bottom edge of the middle tier (the edge without the gathering) should match up to the top gathered edge of the lower tier and the right sides should be together. Pin/baste this seam just below the zigzag stitching. (basting is your friend on this project!) Now, flip it right side out and check your gathers and re-adjust if necessary. Machine stitch this seam along the basting; then remove the heavy-duty thread and basting.

8. Repeat the procedures from Steps 6 and 7 to attach the middle tier to the top tier.

9. Serge or pink the gathered seam allowances you’ve just sewn to finish the raw edges.

10. On the outside edge of the ‘waistband’ casing, open 1” [2.5 cm] on one seam carefully with a seam ripper. Thread the drawstring through the top casing. (Alternatively, you may use elastic in the casing, if desired)

 

BANDS OF BOLD

Featured: Escada Wrap

Here are my favourite bold colour combos for cosy sueded fabrics for those of you planning your new wrap for the spring/summer season. Just in case it looks intimidating, rest assured this is a patternless fashion design (a simple block draft) where the beauty of the fabric shines and bold colour is the star.

You will need:

• 1 yd [90cm] of fashion fabric, 60” [150cm] wide in colour A*
• 1 yd [90cm] of fashion fabric, 60” [150cm] wide in colour B*
• 12 yd. [11m] of double-side flat braid, 2” [50mm] wide
• Matching crochet yarn (pearl cotton or wool) to make 11 tassels
• Coordinating thread

Designer Tip:

* Analogous colour schemes – use any colour that lie adjacent to each other on the colour wheel. Your choice of hue may be any tint, shade, or tone.

• Red + Orange
• Red + Violet
• Yellow + Green
• Yellow + Orange
• Blue + Green
• Blue + Violet

DIMENSIONS: Approx. 60” X 60” [150 cm X 150cm].

CUTTING

Cut each fabric across its width to create two pairs of panel equal to 16” X 60” [40.5cm X 150cm].  Alternatively, if you desire a longer wrap, cut the panels along the fabric’s length to the desired finished length. (You will need to purchase extra fabric).

ASSEMBLY

1. Make 11 tassel from yarn. (I used black embroidery wool) Make the cardboard template equal to twice the length of the finished tassel and fold it in half. Wind yarn around template as thick as you desire. Tie off across top and cut through bottom with scissors. Wrap more yarn around the top end and create a tassel.

2.  Sew one panel of each colour together (I used double-sided microfibre sand-washed silk) with wrong sides facing. Press seam open.

3. Sew each pair together with wrong sides facing, allowing one end of seam to be open for 35” [89cm]. Press seam open and seam allowances flat on face side of fabric.
Apply flat braid (I used black grosgrain ribbon) over the seam allowances of the three seams.

4. Sew flat braid to edge of center opening in fabric, folding ribbon in a mitre at the turn.

5. Sew flat braid to perimeter of fabric, beginning and completing at the center slit opening and miter ribbon braid at each corner.

6. Attach a tassel to corners of wrap and at each seam intersection. (6 total on front hem and 5 total on back hem)

 

FOX NECK BOA

 

Featured: Adrienne Landau fur boa

A cute fashion must-have for the cold! Soft-as-silk faux fox fur, luxuriously crafted into a neck boa a-la Prada, to wear whatever the outfit or occasion. An ultra feminine way to keep warm and look chic. Match it with your favourite outerwear or knitwear to create a  new look or make several in different colours!

 

 

Dimensions : 21” long x 4” wide.

 

 

You will need:

• ¼ yd. [23 cm] faux fox fur
• 1 yd. [90 cm] satin ribbon, 1 ½” [40 mm] wide
• ¼ yd. [23 cm] lamb’s wool
• 3 yds. [2.75 m] twill tape, ½” [12.5 mm] wide
• Coordinating nylon thread
• Glover needle #5
• X-acto knife or safety razor

PATTERN

Note: There is no seam allowances required.

 

CUTTING

Fur – cut 1X self * in faux fur

Ties – cut 2X in ribbon – 18” [46 cm] long

Interlining – cut 1X in lamb’s wool

 

* do NOT cut fur with scissors

 

ASSEMBLY

On the fur backing, tape the edges with twill tape. Use a herringbone pattern and taking long stitches, baste the twill tape to the back of the fur. (1)

With the fur face up, tape the edges with the twill tape a second time. This time “push” all the hairs beneath the tape and overcast a whipstitch along the edge of the twill tape and fur catching the first taping on the underside. Keep your hand-stitches small and even. (2)

Lay the lamb’s wool on the back of the fur. Baste it to the backing through the center of the piece with long stitches. Baste the lamb’s wool around the perimeter of the fur piece. Trim away any excess lamb’s wool.

Turn the twill tape on the fur face to the back side to overlap the lamb’s wool and baste around the perimeter through all the layers. (3)

At each end of fur piece (see ●), securely attach a ribbon tie.

Fold the fur piece in half lengthwise and butt taped edges together. Use a ladder stitch to complete the neck boa. With the hair side of the fur facing upwards, bring the needle from the back to the front at the top of the opening (a), one stitch width from the edge. On the right side of the opening, insert the needle between the fur and the taped edge (b-c), between the first and second stitches. Pass the needle under the opening and on the opposite side (c-d), insert the needle between the fur and the taped edge (d-e) , between the first and second stitches. Continue working side to side (e-f), pulling the thread to close the opening every four stitches (g). On completion, slip the needle through the last loop to knot and bury the thread inside the boa to hide the end.

Use a comb to fluff out the fur along the seam.