November 2008


waistcoat_dbreasted_molohFeatured: Vest by Moloh

A beauty in this double-breasted shawl-collared waistcoat from Moloh.

You will need:

  • 1 yd. [0.9 m] of fashion fabric, 54″ [150 cm] wide
  • 1 yd. [0.9 m] of bemberg® satin lining, 45″ [115 cm] wide
  • 1 yd. [0.9 m] of fusible interfacing, 24″ [60 cm] wide
  • coordinating thread
  • 18 half-ball shank buttons, 13mm diameter [line 20]
  • kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure under arms over fullest part of chest.

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso at the navel.

High hip – measure around pelvis approx. 4″ [10 cm] below natural waist.

Back waist length – measure from nape of neck to natural waist.

Armhole depth – measure drop from shoulder to armpit level.

Shoulder – measure length of shoulder.

Back width – measure across shoulder blades from armhole to armhole.

Neck size – measure around base of neck.

Dart Width Opening – 2 ¾” [7cm].

PATTERN

vest-21Square down from 0; square halfway across the paper.

0-1 = 5/8″ [1.5 cm].

1-2 = armhole depth + 3/16″ [0.5 cm]; square across.

2-3 = half of bust + 2″ [5 cm].

Square up and down; label this line centerfront [CF].

3-4 = 0-2

Square across from 4.

1-5 = back waist length; square across to 6.

5-7 = 4″ [10 cm], square across to centerfront line. Label point 8. (this gives ½ the high hip measurement plus 1″ [2.5 cm] ease).

Back

0-9 = 1/5 of neck minus 1/16″ [0.2 cm]; draw in back neck curve 1-9.

1-10 = 1/5 armhole depth minus ¼” [0.7 cm]; square halfway across the paper.

9-11 = shoulder length minus 1″ [2.5 cm]; draw back shoulder line to touch the line from 10.

12 is center of the shoulder line.

12-13 Draw a dart 2″ [5cm] long and 3/8″ [1 cm] wide perpendicular to shoulder line.

2-14 = ½ back width + 3/16″ [0.5 cm] ease; square up to 15.

14-16 = half the measurement of 14-15.

17 is midway between 2 and 14; square down with a dotted line to point 18 on waistline and point 19 on hemline.

Front

4-20 = 1/5 neck minus ¼” [0.7 cm].

4-21 = 1/5 neck minus 1/16″ [0.2 cm].

3-22 = 1/2 of back width measurement minus 3/4″ [2 cm] + half width of dart opening; square up.

3-23 = ½ of distance 3-22; square down with a dotted line to point 24 on waistline and point 25 on hemline.

26 is the bust point approx. 1″ [2.5 cm] down from 23; draw a line joining 20-26.

20-27 = dart opening; draw a line joining 26-27.

11-28 =  5/8″ [1.5 cm]; square out approx. 4″ [10 cm] to 29.

27-30 Draw a line from 27, equal to the back shoulder to touch on line from 28 to 29.

22-31 = 1/3 the measurement 3-21.

32 is midway between 14 and 22; square down with a dotted line to point 33 on the waistline and point 34 on the hemline.

Draw armhole as shown passing through points 11, 16, 32, 31, and 30.

When shoulder seams are joined it is essential that the armhole is a smooth curve.

3-35 = 3-23; square up to locate point 36 on line from 21 and square down to locate point 37 on line from 8. This is the double-breasted closure.

37-38 = ½” [1.25cm].

38-39 = ½” [1.25 cm].

Join 35 and 39 with a straight line.

The waistcoat requires a front drop from 7 to 39; join with a gentle curved line to complete the hemline.

Take a tracing of the back neck curve 1-9 and flip the shape over.

Place point 9 of back neck curve on point 20 on front neck.

vest-320-40 = 1-9.

40-41 = 3 ½” [9 cm]; this is the CB of the collar.

Complete the roll collar by drawing a parallel line to the neckline of the collar from 41 and gently curving into point 36 as shown.

Shaping the waist of the waistcoat requires half the waist measurement plus 1-3/16″ [3 cm] ease. This means 4 ¾” [12 cm] shaping. Shape waist suppression on the dotted lines; 1-3/8″ [3.5 cm] at back dart, 1-5/8″ [4 cm] at side seam, and 1 ¾” [4.5 cm] at front dart.

vest-41Close the bust dart by slashing the dotted line up to point 26 and match point 27 to 20.

Mark 9 button placements evenly on either side of centerfront line for a double-breasted closure.

Front Facing

Trace off the vest draft. To make the front facing piece, separate the collar and front edge of the vest through points 25-26-20-40-41-36-35-39. The remaining pattern pieces will be used for the lining pattern.

NOTE: Add seam allowance to all pattern pieces.

CUTTING

Vest Front – cut 2X self

Vest Back – cut 1X self on fold

Vest Collar & Facing – cut 2X self

Vest Front Lining – cut 2X lining

Vest Back Lining – cut 1X lining on fold

Vest Interfacing – cut 2X fusible

ASSEMBLY

  1. Iron fusible interfacing onto back of collar & facing pieces, following manufacturer’s directions.
  2. With right sides together (RST), pin/baste front facing to front lining. Sew seam and press seam allowance towards lining. Topstitch the lining along the seam.
  3. staystichStay-stitch shoulder/neck point (#20) on collar facing to reinforce corner. Clip seam allowance to the stitching at a 45° angle.
  4. Pin/baste waist suppression darts on back lining. Sew darts and press towards the sideseam.
  5. With RST, pin/baste lining fronts to lining back at sideseams and shoulders. Sew seams and press open.
  6. With RST, pin /baste CB seam of top collar together. Sew seam and press open. Then pin/baste the collar neckline to the back lining and sew between the two clips. Press seam towards lining. Topstitch lining along neckline seam. Set aside.
  7. Stay-stitch shoulder/neck point (#20) on waistcoat fronts to reinforce corner. Clip seam allowance to the stitching at a 45° angle.
  8. Pin/baste waist suppression darts on back and front waistcoat sections.  Sew darts and press towards the center.
  9. With RST, pin/baste fronts to back at sideseams and shoulders. Sew seams and press open.
  10. With RST, pin /baste CB seam of under-collar together. Sew seam and press open.
  11. With RST, pin /baste neck edge of collar to back neckline of waistcoat. Sew neck seam between the two clips. Press seam open.
  12. Place the lined portion with the outer portion of the waistcoat with right sides together, aligning them up along the outer edges. Pin/baste the two halves of the waistcoat together.
  13. Stitch the waistcoat along the front edge and collar. Grade seams and clip seam allowance along curved edge of collar. Press seam open.
  14. Pin/baste along the lower edge of the waistcoat from the front edge to the sideseam matching up the waist darting. Sew lower edge of front and press open. Trim corners and grade seam allowance on front facing.
  15. Turn the waistcoat right side out. Use a point turner to gently push out the edges of the garment and make sure it is fully right side out.
  16. Entering from the bottom, match up the seam allowances of the armholes and sew lining around the armholes. Do a parallel row of stitching 1/8″ [0.25 cm] on armholes and trim seam allowances away. Then, match up the seam allowances of the back neckline and collar and baste together.
  17. Turn the bottom edge of the waistcoat so that the back hemline is even with the rest of the front. Press the folded hem. Turn the bottom edge of the lining and lay on top of the hem just shy of the fold. Baste the two layers together. Slipstitch the lining to the back.
  18. Under-stitch along the armholes, 1/4 inch [0.5 cm] from the edge.
  19. Press the outer edges of the waistcoat. Under-stitch the front closure and under-collar 1/4 inch [0.5 cm] from the edge.
  20. On the right hand side front, thread-mark 9 buttonholes (5/8″ diameter [15 mm]). Sew buttonholes.
  21. Hand-stitch 9 shank buttons to the left front of the waistcoat following button placement on draft.
  22. To create the double-breasted “look”, on the right front sew 9 more buttons (mirror-imaged on CF line) in a slight V-formation, as shown.


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twelve-by-twelve-vest-belt-mystical-forestFeatured: Forever 21 belt from Twelve By Twelve

A unique and eye-catching haberdashery “vest-style” belt to make.

You will need:

  • ½ yd. [0.5 m] of fashion fabric, 45″ [115 cm] wide
  • ¼ yd. [0.25 m] of fusible interfacing, 45″ [115 cm] wide
  • Covered button kit, 10 mm diameter/line 16
  • Coordinating thread

PATTERN

belt-2

1 square = 1 inch [2.5 cm]

Note: Add seam allowance.

Lengthen/shorten the waistline of the belt at CB fold.

CUTTING

belt1Belt – cut 2X on fold

Belt Interfacing – cut 1X on fold

Welt – cut 1X

Welt Facing – cut 1X

ASSEMBLY

  1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of OUTER belt section, following manufacturer’s direction.
  2. Make 4 – 3/8″ (10 mm) covered buttons [line 16] following manufacturer’s directions.
  3. For a single welt on the belt, you will need a welt piece and a facing piece. The welt strip should be 2 ½ ” (6 cm) deep [ 3/4″ (2 cm) finished] and 1 ¼” (3 cm) longer than welt placement line. The facing piece should be twice as wide as the welt and 1 ¼ ” (3 cm) longer than placement line. Interface the facing piece. Transfer all placement markings to the welt, the facing, and the OUTER belt section.
  4. With wrong sides together, fold the welt piece in half lengthwise. Baste the raw edges together. On the right side of the garment, position the welt with the raw edges aligned with the centre of the placement line and the folded edge extending beyond the bottom of the placement line. Pin and baste in place along placement line of welt on the surface of the left hand side of the belt section.
  5. Place facing piece, right side face down over area above placement line. Stitch along marked placement line being careful not to touch top and side edges of welt in seam. Cut along centre of the placement line, ending ¼ ” (7 mm) from ends, being careful not to cut through welt strip. Turn raw edges to inside with welt strip centre in opening.
  6. bbh-1c3Fold back the belt to expose the seam allowance at the upper edge of the opening. Matching raw edges and with right sides together, centre facing piece over the seam allowance. Sew in place. From right side of belt piece, fold back welt opening to expose small triangular pieces and welt of pocket. Stitch along welt side seamlines, catching small triangles in seam. Stitch across bottom of welt opening catching the facing portion to close the opening. Trim seam allowance and clean-finish edges.
  7. With wrong sides together, layer the two belt sections  together and match up raw edges. Pin/baste the perimeter. Machine stitch around the belt, leaving a 5″ (13 cm) opening to turnout. Grade seam allowances and trim corners. Turn belt right side out. Press edges flat.
  8. On right hand side of belt face, thread-mark 4 – 1/2″ (1.25 cm) buttonholes. Stitch buttonholes. Hand-stitch the covered buttons to the left front of the belt.
shoulder-vest1SHOULDER VEST

The Commuter Bandolier is a comfortable easy-to-wear shoulder vest and can totally tote your possessions in its pouches as you go about your daily routine. Cheerfully strap it on, head out into the world, and start a culture-wide fashion trend.

You will need:

  • 1 yd. [0.90 m] of fashion fabric, 45″[114 cm] wide
  • 1/3 yd. [0.30 m] of pocketing, 45″ [114 cm] wide
  • 2/3 yd. [0.60 m] of fusible interfacing, 45″ [144cm] wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • 2 nylon pocket zippers, 10″ [25 cm] long
  • ¼ yd. [23 cm] of Velcro® fastener, ½” [1.25 cm] wide
  • kraft paper

PATTERN

bag-2Dimensions are given in inches (imperial). **

NOTE: Length and width measurements may be adjusted by slashing through the RED lines and increasing or decreasing the amount needed in proportion.

** Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

CUTTING

bag-layout1Cut each pattern piece 2X in fashion fabric.

Cut each pattern piece 1X in fusible interfacing.

(flip pattern)

Cut each pocket piece 2X in pocketing.

Cut interfacing 1″ X 11″ [2.5cm X 28 cm] for each zipper opening.

Cut 1 Velcro hook side – 7″ [18 cm] long.

Cut 3 Velcro loop side – 3″ [7.5 cm] long.

ASSEMBLY

  1. Iron fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the INNER FACING pieces of the vest, following the manufacturer’s directions.
  2. On the OUTER pieces of the shoulder harness and right front piece, center and fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric at the zipper placement.
  3. With right sides together (RST), match the upper pocket piece to the zipper placement on the shoulder harness. Baste in place. Stitch the outline of the pocket opening 10″ [25 cm] long X ½” [1.25 cm] wide, pivoting at the corners.
  4. Slash through center of outlined stitching and cut diagonally into the corners. Pull pocket lining through opening to wrong side of shoulder harness. This opening should form a perfect rectangle. Roll edges of opening between your fingers until each seam is at the edge of the opening. Press so that none of the lining shows on the outside.
  5. Center the zipper with the slider pointing upward behind the opening and baste in place.
  6. Topstitch around the pocket opening to secure the zipper.
  7. Match the remaining pocket lining piece to the upper pocket lining and align raw edges. Pin/baste the perimeter and sew up the pocket bag.
  8. Baste vertical seams of pocket bag to shoulder harness.
  9. Repeat inset zipper application to pocket opening on right front piece, as described above.
  10. Match front and back of shoulder harness with RST. Pin/baste long edges together. Sew seams, catching the pocket bag in the stitching. Turn shoulder harness right side out and press seams flat. Topstitch along the long edges.
  11. Match the vertical seams of the OUTER pieces of the “belt” portion of the vest. Pin/baste each seam and machine-stitch. Press seams open.
  12. Repeat last procedure for the vertical seams of the interfaced INNER pieces of the “belt” portion of the vest.
  13. Position the Velcro® hook vertically 1″ [2.5cm] from raw edge along the right front edge on the INNER portion (allow for seam allowance) with the right side UP. Stitch in place.
  14. Baste shoulder harness to OUTER portion on front and back along top edge, matching up RED dots.
  15. Pin/baste INNER and OUTER “belt” sections with RST and match up seams. Beginning at the center of the bottom edge, sew around the perimeter and pivot at the corners, leaving a 6″ [15cm] opening to turn out. Be certain to catch pocket bag in the stitching. Grade seam allowances and trim corners.
  16. Turn vest right side out and press edges flat. Topstitch around the perimeter to close opening.
  17. On left front, position 3 Velcro® loops horizontally and equally spaced approximately ¼” [0.5 cm] from the front edge on the OUTER section with the right side UP. Stitch in place through all layers.

peasant-blouse

In the fashion world, bohemian or boho, refers to a a state of mind regarding fashion that is individual, romantic, and free-spirited. This style is often called hippie-chic. Try drafting and making a fully-gathered yoked boho blouse to wear with your skinny jeans.

You will need:

  • Approx. 1.5 yds. [1.4 m] of fashion fabric, 60″ [150 cm] wide
  • Approx. 0.5 yd. [0.5 m] of fusible interfacing, 24″ [60 cm] wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure under the arms around the fullest part of chest.

Back waist length – measure from nape of neck to waistline.

Shoulder width – measure across back from shoulder to shoulder.

PATTERN

blouse-draftYoke:

Fold kraft paper into quarters, aligning the foldline.

From the folded corner, measure ½ of shoulder width plus ½” [1.25 cm] across the paper.

From the folded corner, measure ½ of shoulder width minus 1″ [2.5cm] down the paper.

From the folded corner, draw a 45° line between the 2 foldlines.

Plot a point on the line equaling ½ of shoulder width. Label point, X.

Join these 3 points with a smooth curve.

Draw a second line 4″ [10 cm] parallel to the curved line within the curve to complete the yoke.

Add ½” [1.25 cm] seam allowances to neckline and yokeline.

Cut the shape from the folded paper.

Body:

Square 2 lines across and down the paper.

The length of the body equals the back waist length plus 1″ [2.5 cm] hem.

Label the length, CENTER FOLD.

The width of the body equals ½ of the bust measurement.

Square from these points to complete the body pattern.

On the side seam, measure 5″ [13 cm] from the hem. Label this point, O.

Point X is located at the top of the sideseam.

Add ½”[1.25 cm] seam allowance to top edge and side seam.

Sleeve:

Fold kraft paper in half and square a line from the foldline.

Plot a point on the line equal to the distance from X to O on the body section.

Label this point, X and label the foldline, O on the sleeve section.

Square a line from X.

Plot a point on this line from X and along the foldline from O equal to ½ the bust measurement.

Join the 2 points with a straight line. Add a 1-inch [2.5 cm] hem to complete the sleeve.

Add ½” [1.25 cm] seam allowances to top edge and side seam.

Cut the sleeve shape from the folded paper.

CUTTING

blouse-assemblyYoke – Cut 2X self.

Yoke Interfacing – Cut 1X fusible.

Body – Cut 2X self on fold.

Sleeve – Cut 2X self.

ASSEMBLY

  1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of 1 yoke section following the manufacturer’s directions.
  2. With right sides together (RST), match up the front and back sections of the body. Pin/baste side seam between O and hem edge. Stitch side seams. Press open.
  3. Turn under a ½” [1.25 double rolled hem along the sleeve opening and topstitch down.
  4. With RST, pin/baste sleeve between the Xs on the body. Stitch seam and press open.
  5. Sew 2 rows of gathering stitches across the top edge of the front and back body from sleeve opening to sleeve opening. Draw up threads and gather fabric.
  6. With RST, pin/baste gather edges of body to yoke, matching centers and Xs. Butt sleeve opening edge together and pin/baste at shoulder point on yoke. Distribute gathers evenly.
  7. Machine stitch yokeline. Press seam allowance towards yoke. Turn garment right side out.
  8. Turn under seam allowance along outer edge on interfaced yoke piece. Press.
  9. Match neckline of interfaced yoke piece to neckline of garment. Pin/baste in place. Stitch neck seam. Clip and grade seam allowance. Pull interfaced yoke piece through neckline to inside. Understitch the neckline.
  10. Lap the folded edge of the interfaced yoke piece over the gathered yoke seam, matching the centers, shoulders, and Xs. Slipstitch yokeline to encase the raw edges of the gathers.
  11. Turn under the hem allowance of the garment and press. Stitch a ½” [1.25 cm] double rolled hem.
_5555502-tunicFeatured: Nordstrom Metallic Print Tunic

Bias-cut one-shouldered tunic is fashioned with a single batwing sleeve and angled hemline .

You will need:

  • approx. 2 yds. [2m] of fashion fabric, 45″[115cm] wide. *
  • coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

* allow extra yardage to match a one-way or printed fabric.

MEASUREMENT

This pattern is drafted by height. The body proportion is made up of 8 heads.

Your height divided by 8.

eg. for a person 5 foot 4 inches: 64″/8 = 8 or 163/8 = 20.4

1 head amount = 8 inches or 20.4 cm.

PATTERN

tunicMake a perfect square equal to 1 head amount.

Use a set-square to draw a 90 degree angle on the Kraft paper.

Set up a grid using the square as shown:

1st row : A,B,C

2nd row: D, E

3rd row: F, G

4th row: – , H

Point 1 is left midpoint on square D.

Point 2 is bottom left corner of square F.

Point 3 is top midpoint on square B.

Point 4 is top right corner of square C.

Join points 1 and 3 and join points 2 and 4, with a straight line.

Point 5 is bottom right corner of square H.

Point 6 is right midpoint of square C.

Join points 5 and 6 with a straight line.

Point 7 is intersection point of lines.

Draw a ½-inch [1.25 cm] facing parallel to lines 1-3, 4-6, and 5-7.

Line 2-4 is the grainline.

NOTE: Add seam allowance around perimeter of pattern piece. (thick solid line)

CUTTING

Cut 2X self.     Note: Flip pattern to cut back section.

ASSEMBLY

  1. With RIGHT sides together, match raw edges of front and back pieces. Pin/baste between 1-2, 3-4, and 6-7. Stitch seams and press open.
  2. Turn under facing ½” [1.25 cm] at neck and on sleeve opening and hem.
  3. Turn under slit facings between 5 and 7 and stitch down. Then, hem bottom of tunic.
maggy-london-pull-through-satin-stoleFeatured: Maggy London Satin Stole

Lustrous satin fashion fabric shapes an elegant wrap designed with a pull-through slit opening for easy adjustability, like this one by Maggy London.

You will need:

  • 2 yds. (1.8 m) of satin fashion fabric, 45″ wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • Small patch of fusible interfacing
  • Fray Check ® fabric sealant

PATTERN

wrapdraft-a2Make stole pattern approx. 16″ X 80″.  Round the ends with a circular template (I used a large pie plate). Position slit opening 4″ from one end.

CUTTINGwrapdraft1

Cut 2X self

ASSEMBLY

Making a Bound “Buttonhole” Slit

TIP: To insure perfect results, make a trial buttonhole slit on the same number of fabric layers as your garment for practice.

Step 1: Mark slit position and length on WRONG (interfaced) side of one of the stole portions. Thread-trace a 4-inch slit, extending the thread tracing beyond end markings. The thread-traced markings should resemble a ladder.

bbh-1aStep 2: Cut a self fabric patch for the slit on straight grain, 2″ (5cm) wide and 5″ (13cm). Make a center line horizontally across the length of the patch. With RIGHT sides together, baste the center of the patch along ladder rungs with ends extending 1/2″ (1.3cm) beyond ladder sides.

Step 3: On WRONG side, mark lines 1/8″ (3mm) above and below buttonhole marking, using tailor’s chalk.

Step 4: Using a small machine-stitch, start sewing along one long side of the buttonhole, following pencil lines, being careful to end stitching exactly at thread-traced ends. Do not stitch across ends, back-stitch or pivot at corners. Bring thread ends to WRONG side and tie in a knot.

bbh-1bStep 5: Snip between the two stitching lines and clip diagonally to corners, as shown. Be careful not to clip through machine stitching. (TIP: Add a dot of seam sealant such as Fray Check® to corners, and allow to dry.)

Step 6: Pull patch through opening to WRONG side of front. This opening should form a perfect rectangle. Roll edges of opening between your fingers until each seam is at the edge of the opening. Press so that none of the patch shows on the OUTSIDE.

Step 7: To form “buttonhole” lips, fold each long side of the patch over the opening, so that the folds meet exactly at the center.

Step 8: On OUTSIDE, baste “buttonhole” lips together along fold lines and press in place. Basting should remain in place until stole is completed.

bbh-1cStep 9: To secure “buttonhole” lips and keep them from shifting, with front RIGHT side up, fold it back out of the way until you can sew the end of the patch and the triangle (formed by clipping corners in step 5) together. Using small machine stitches, stitch across the base of the triangle, catching patch. Trim end to 1/4″ (6mm). Repeat on other end.

Step 10: Stitch horizontal seam allowance of buttonhole and patch together, just inside the original stitching. Trim patch to 1/4″ (6mm). Repeat on other seam. Set aside.

Step 11: On second stole portion, repeat step 1.

Step 12:  Cut a self fabric patch for the slit on bias grain, 5″ (13cm) wide and 5″ (13cm). Make a center line diagonally across the patch. With RIGHT sides together, baste the center of the patch along ladder rungs with ends extending beyond ladder sides.

bbh-1aa2Step 13: On WRONG side, mark lines 1/8″ (3mm) above and below buttonhole marking, using tailor’s chalk.

Step 14: Using a small machine-stitch, start sewing along one long side of the buttonhole, following chalk lines, being careful to end stitching exactly at thread-traced ends. Pivot at corners and complete the “rectangular” shape of the back opening.

Step 15: Snip between the two stitching lines and clip diagonally to corners, as shown in step 5. Be careful not to clip through machine stitching.

Step 16: Pull patch through opening to WRONG side of front. This opening should form a perfect rectangle. Roll edges of opening between your fingers until each seam is at the edge of the opening. Press so that none of the patch shows on the OUTSIDE.

Step 17: After the stole perimeter is completed, align the opening with the bound “buttonhole” slit and slipstitch rectangle opening to back of “buttonhole” lips.

Making The Stole

Step18: With RIGHT sides together, layer the 2 stole pieces and align the slit openings. Pin/baste the outer edges. Stitch around the perimeter, leaving 5″ opening along one long edge. Grade and trim seam allowances.

Step 19: Turn stole right side out. Slip stitch opening closed.

Step 20: Match and align bound “buttonhole” slit. Complete step 17.