CLUB JACKET

Featured: Club Jacket by Sanmar

In the fashion world, colour-blocking is in. You might fret that you look ridiculous wearing a burnt-orange shirt and navy-blue pants, but you will find that designers are actually creating single-piece garments in literal blocks of stark colour contrasts. For the daring fashionista, choosing contrasting colours from opposite ends of the colour wheel can result in surprisingly appealing combinations.  Here are the rules to the art of colour-blocking:

• Three is the magic number
• Keep colours in the same family
• Be loud and proud
• Keep it simple

Discover analogous, triadic, and split-complementary colour combinations.

You will need:

• Up to 1 ½ yds. [1.4 m] of fashion fabric, colour A*, 45” [114 cm] wide.
• Up to 1 ½ yds. [1.4 m] of fashion fabric, colour B*, 45” [114 cm] wide.
• Up to  2  ½ yds. [ 2.3 m] of lining fabric, 45” [114 cm] wide
• Approx. 2 yds. [1.8 m] of elastic, 1” [25mm] wide
• ½ yd. [0.5 m] of fusible interfacing, 24” [61 cm] wide
• 1 separating zipper **
• Coordinating thread
• Kraft paper

* see Cutting Instructions to determine the yardage required as it is dependent upon the colour-block styling. Feel free to use a third colour in your combination; the featured model uses two colours.

 

** zipper length = distance from top of collar to garment hem minus 1” [25mm].

Design Tip: Match colour of zipper to lightest fabric colour used in colour blocking

MEASUREMENTS

Chest – measure around the upper torso just below the arms

Waist – measure around the narrowest part of torso, just above the navel.

Seat – measure around fullest part of hip, about 9”[23 cm} below waist.

Back width – measure across the shoulder blades from armpit to armpit.

Shoulder – measure from neck to ball socket of shoulder.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to natural waistline.

Armsyce depth – measure vertically from top of shoulder to nipple.

Neck – measure around base of neck.

Arm length – measure from end of shoulder to wrist.

Finished Length – measure vertically from nape of  neck to desired length.

 

PATTERN

Easy fitting coats, jackets and smock shapes can be drafted from a simple grid which maps the basic control points of the body shape. The grid lines can be used for reference. Simple dramatic shapes can be achieved from this type of draft, like the club jacket from Sanmar. The grid is constructed to basic body measurements; substantial ease must be added for movement and styling. Once it is completed, the draft is aligned at the shoulder-sleeve seam and stylelines are drawn in and cut apart for colour-blocking. As the designer, you may create any shape of style lines desired and they may flow seamlessly from front to back. (Try to avoid any sharp angles and corners for ease of assembly.)

Body Grid

Draw 2 lines from A at a 90° angle.

A-B = ¾” [20mm]

A-C = 1/5 of neck measurement minus ⅛” [2 mm].

B-D = armsyce depth; square across.

D-E = 1” [25mm]; square across to mark chestline.

B-F = back waist length; square across.

F-G = 9” [23 cm]

A-H = 1/5 of neck measurement; draw in back neck curve from B to H, as shown.

Draw in front neck curve from C to H, as shown.

G-I = ¼ of chest measurement; square up to the armhole.

Draw a tangent line from H at a 17°angle from the line at point A.

H-J = shoulder measurement.

Style Adaptation

Mark point K on the centerline at the desired finished length + 1” [25mm] turn; square across.

K-L = ¼ of the seat measurement + ⅓ the distance of G-I for ease

Draw a construction line from H through the armhole (intersection of D and I) as shown.

Square up from L to locate M at the intersection of the lines.

Locate N at the waistline.

Extend the shoulder line from J; J-O = arm length + 1” [25mm] turn.

O-P squared from O = 12” [30.5 cm]; join P-M.

M-Q is the measurement M-N.

Draw a smooth underarm curve from N to Q; R is located at the intersection of lines, as shown.

Collar Section

Measure front and back necklines from draft. Compare amount with actual neck measurement. If necessary, increase neckline on draft so total is at least 1” greater than actual body measurement. (This amount may be greater than 1 inch if desired)

On a straight line, V-W = ½ of the back neck measurement.

W-X = ½ of the front neck measurement; square up.

X-Y = ⅜” [10mm].

X-Z = 4” [10 cm].

V-AA = 4” [10 cm]. (CB line)

Join Z and AA.

Fold on CB line and trace out mirror image of collar.

Add seam allowance.

Colour Blocking

S is midway between J and O.

Lay a set square on the sleeve line at S and draw a line at a 90°angle to touch on the line from E. Label this point, T.

S-U = distance of S-T.

Square a line from U to the underarm line.

For the back yoke, trace out B-H-J-T-E-B.*

For the front yoke, trace out C-H-J-T-E-C.*

For the sleeve bottom, trace out U-O-P-U.*

* Add seam allowance and label CONTRAST.

For the upper sleeve, trace out T-S-U-Q-R-M-T.**

For the front and back body, trace out E-M-R-N-L-K-G-F-E.**

** Add seam allowance and label, SELF.

Lining

For front lining, trace out C-H-M-R-N-L-K-G-F-E-D-C.***

For the back lining, trace out B-H-M-R-N-L-K-G-F-E-D-B. ***

For the sleeve lining, place sleeve line (H to O) on foldline of paper and trace O-P-Q-R-M-H. ***

*** Add seam allowance and label, LINING.

CUTTING

Fabric A (self)

Front Body – cut 2X self

Back body – cut 1X self on fold

Upper Sleeve – cut 4X self (reverse)

A 2” wide strip equal to length of collar.

Fabric B (contrast)

Front yoke – cut 2X contrast

Back Yoke – cut 1X on fold contrast

Sleeve bottom – cut 4X contrast (reverse)

Collar – cut 2X on fold contrast

Lining

Front – cut 2X lining

Back – cut 1X on fold lining

Sleeve – cut 2X lining

Interfacing

Collar – cut 2x fusible

Design Tip: Select 2 to 3 colours from the same kind of fabric for colour-blocking. If you are creating a bold outer-shell, keep the lining subdued; or if the shell is somber in colour, choose a bright lining.

ASSEMBLY

1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of collar pieces following manufacturer’s directions.

For outer collar, stitch contrast strip 1” [25mm] from edge across top of collar with right sides facing together (RST). Flip trim FACE UP and trim any excess fabric if necessary.

 

2. For lining, sew sleeves to each side of back with RST.

Sew one front to each sleeve with RST.

With RST, attach untrimmed collar piece to neckline of lining.

Fold sleeves in half with RST and align and match underarm and side seams of body. Pin/baste and sew seams. Press seams open. Set aside.

 

3. For shell, sew sleeve bottoms to upper sleeves with RST for the front and back sections.

Sew sleeve halves to body with RST for the back and front sections.

Sew back yoke to back body section with RST, pivoting at the armhole seam.

Sew one front yoke to each front body section with RST, pivoting at the armhole seam.

With RST, align and match fronts to back at all seams on sleeve line. Pin/baste and sew shoulder and sleeve seam.

With RST, attach trimmed collar piece to neckline of shell.

 

4. Insert separating zipper to front edge from top of collar to within 1” [25mm] of hemline.

Fold sleeves in half with RST and align and match underarm and side seams of shell.

Pin/baste and sew seams. Press seams open.

 

5. To insert lining, place sleeves of shell into sleeves of lining with RST. Align and match outer edges of the garment. Pin/baste together. Stitch along the zippered edges and across top of collar. Trim corners of collar to reduce bulk. Turn garment RIGHT SIDE OUT. From between the shell and lining, attach the seam allowances of the collar and neckline together. (This can be machined or basted by hand.)

With garment FACE UP, topstitch along zipper edge and collar.

 

6. At the wrists and the hemline, turn in 1 ¼ ” [30mm] on the shell portion only and press. Align the edge of the lining along the creaseline. (This will allow for a bit of slack in the lining.) Turn under ¼” [6mm] on the shell fabric and stitch a 1” [25mm] casing for the elastic. Leave a small opening to thread the elastic through each casing.

 

 

7. To complete the jacket, draw elastic through casing at wrists and zigzag ends together. Stretch out elasticized cuff to distribute the elastic evenly and stitch up opening. “Stitch in the ditch” through the sleeve seams to prevent elastic from twisting in casing.

 

8. Draw elastic through casing at hemline. Tack each end of elastic at the end of the casing at the CF. Stretch out elasticized hem to distribute the elastic evenly and sew through the sideseams using the “stitch-in-the-ditch” method to prevent the elastic from twisting.

 

JAMMIN’ JAMMERS

Jammin’ jammers for the budding beach bum.

You will need:

• 1-5/8 yds. of fashion fabric, 45″ wide
• 1-1/4 yds. of waistband elastic, 1 ½ ” wide
• 1-1/2 yds. of cable cord, 1″ thickness
• 1 Velcro^TM tab
• Coordinating thread

PATTERN

Measure hip about 9″ below the natural waistline and around the fullest part of the seat. Finished length is approximately 22″ (knee length).

CUTTING

Cut 2X self on straight grain of fabric. Save crotch cut-out for pocket.

ASSEMBLY

1. Take one piece of crotch cut-out and turn under top edge 2″. Press. Centre hook side of Velcro^TM tab (just below the foldline)  with pocket right side up. Stitch around the tab. Turn top edge 2″ again.  Press.  Topstitch facing of pocket below the tab.
2. Turn under ½” seam allowance around perimeter of pocket rounding the “corners”. Press. (NOTE: The pocket opening should measure at least 5″ minimum for functional use.)
3. Place pocket on placement line (black dots) on back of right-hand side piece. Align the loop side of the Velcro^TM tab with the pocket tab. Stitch loop tab in place to pant. Match up hook to loop and fasten together. Pin/baste edges of pocket to pant. Topstitch pocket edges.
4. Layer fabric with right sides together, and stitch crotch seam using ½” seam allowance.
5. Match front side seam with back side seam on each leg, with right sides together. Pin/baste seam. Stitch side seam and press open.
6. At waist, turn under ½” and press. Turn under 2″ to create a casing. Topstitch along top and bottom of inside edge of the turn.
7. Cut waistband elastic equal to your waist measurement less 3″.
8. Carefully remove stitches at CF between the 2 topstitching lines on the casing (see red dots) to create an opening. Draw elastic through casing without twisting elastic.
9. To join elastic, butt ends of elastic over a piece of fabric cut twice the width of the elastic. Wrap elastic with fabric scrap. Zigzag-stitch the ends of elastic to fabric scrap. This method eliminates bulk in elastic and works to prevent frayed ends from protruding.
10. Thread cable cording through casing on top of elastic. Knot cord ends.
11. Hem leg bottoms with a ½” double rolled hem.

 

VESTS MAKE THE MAN

Leather vests are an ideal fashion in traditional or western design for all seasons. It makes a bold statement when worn as outerwear when the weather is too warm and unforgiving for a jacket. Vests with simple styling and function can replicate your looks and will make you look simply outstanding. So get in this garb and feel the punch in any season.

You will need:

• cowhide leather
• kasha lining
• fusible interfacing
• coordinating polyester thread
• double-sided leather tape, 1/4″ wide
• leather machine needle
• 4 dome snaps
• bone turner

MEASUREMENTS

Chest – measure just under the arms around the upper body.

Back waist length – measure from nape of neck to waistline.

Back width – measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder blades.

PATTERN

Draw a straight line and locate a point. Label X.

1 from X = back waist length + ½”

2 from 1 = midway between X and 1

3 from 1 = 3″

Square lines across the paper from these points.

4 is located midway between X and 2

5 from 1 = ½”

Join 4 and 5 with a straight line.

6 from 5 = ½”

7 from X = 3 ½”

8 from 7 = 1″

9 is located where line 4-5 intersect line 2

10 from 2 = ½ chest measurement + 3″

Square up and down from 10.

11 from 10 = 1/3 the distance from 2 to 10.

Square up and down from 11

12 is located at intersection of line 1.

13 is located at intersection of 1 and 10.

14 from 2 = ½ back width + ½”

Square up and down from 14.

15 from 14 = 1″

16 from 11 = 1″

17 is midway between 15 and 16.

Square down from 17 to locate 18 and 19.

20 and 21 are ½” on either side of 18.

Shape the side seam as shown.

22 is located at the intersection of X and 10.

23 from 22 = 3 ½”

24 from 10 = 1″

Join 23 and 24 with a straight line.

B from 16 = 6″

C from 11 = 6″

D is located midway between B and C.

Join 8 and D with a straight line.

25 from 8 =  4″

26 from 23 = 8 to 25

Shape armsyce with a deep curve in the front and a shallow curve in the back.

27 is the intersection of 10 and 3.

28 from 27 = 2″

29 from 28 = 2″

At point 12, draw a welt pocket opening 6″ x 1″ as shown.

Shape the front hem as shown.

Trace off the front of the vest, from the shoulder down to the front, and the bottom edge to the side seam. Make a front facing pattern with at least 1 ½ inch width at shoulder and hem.

Trace off welt and double its width. Add seam allowance.

 

CUTTING

Vest Front – cut 2X

Vest Back – cut 2X

Vest Facing – cut 2X

Front Lining – cut 2X

Back lining – cut 2X

Front interfacing – cut 2X

Welt – cut 2X

 

 

 

 

ASSEMBLY

 

1. Sew the welts onto the front sections of the vest.
2. Place the vest backs right sides together. Leather tape the back seam. Sew the CB seam. Flatten the seam with a bone turner and clip seam allowance if necessary.
3. Place the vest back and vest fronts right sides together. Leather tape the back and front together along the shoulders and sides.
4. Stitch the vest back and fronts together along the shoulders and sides, using 1/2 inch seam allowance. Flatten the seams with a bone turner.
5. Iron the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the front facing using a low heat setting and presscloth.
6. Sew the front lining to the front facings.
7. Sew the lining fronts and back together the same way as the outer portion in step 3 and 4.
8. Place the vest and the lining right sides together, lining them up along the edges, and use small paper clamps to keep them together. Stitch the vests along the front and neckline, and around the armholes. Stitch along the lower edge of the vest front, leaving the lower edge of the vest backs unstitched.
9. Turn the vest right side out. Use the bone turner to gently push out the edges of the vest.
10. Turn the un-sewn edges of the lower back to the inside of the vest, so that the folded edge is even with the rest of the back. Press the folded edges under, and leather tape them together.
11. Top-stitch along the outside edges of the vest and the armholes. Make sure the lower edge of the back of the vest gets sewn closed in this seam.
12. Apply the snap domes to the front of the vest following the manufacturer’s directions.

(Note: A man’s vest closure laps from left to right).