fur wrap

In the 1920s, the fur stole was the elegant secret of radiant Hollywood divas, worn with delicate low-cut evening gowns – and even worn provocatively with trouser suits by the “enfants terribles” of the time. Today the fur wrap is once again the height of fashion – made from faux fur with a bow tie. Now, as in the 1920s, it goes with evening dresses, but also with business suits and simple knitted dresses, and today it is still at its most seductive worn against bare skin. Arrange this shapely fur around your shoulders and tie the opulent double-sided satin ribbons into a large bow. Extraordinarily beautiful and elegant, the colour – a rosé shade that is perfect for winter, looks good with all dark colours, natural shades, and greys of the season.

The soft, deep-pile woven fur is anti-static, soft and probably feels even better than real fur. It will keep its look for years, without losing hairs, and will never smell of mothballs. Measures approx. 40″ x 10″ (102 x 26cm).

You will need:

1/3 yd. (30 cm) of woven fake fur: 100% acrylic.

1/3 yd. (30 cm) of “Kasha” satin lining: 100% acetate

1/3 yd. (30 cm) of lamb’s wool interfacing: 100% wool

1 yd. (90 cm) of double-sided satin ribbon: 100% acetate

7 yds. (6.5 m) of ¾” wide twill tape: 100% polyester

cutting planWith your piece of faux fur atop the work surface, place the wrong side up and chalk an “arrow” pointing the direction of the fur pile. The hairs of the fur will point “downward”. Chalk mark the center of the fabric, and measure out 20″ [51 cm] on either side of the centerline. Square from this point to create a rectangle, 40″ by 10″ [102 by 26 cm].

cuttingUsing a large dinner plate, chalk mark curved pattern outlines on each corner (see illustration). Cut out the backing with razor blade without cutting fur. Hold the fabric backing slightly off the table and pull as you slash. Do not cut out with scissors or you will cut the hairs.

For the lining, fold and pin the fabric right sides together, and measure 22″ [56 cm] from the foldline. Square a chalk line from this point to create a rectangle, 44″ by 12″ [112 by 30 cm] and repeat the arc pattern on each corner. Chalk a notch point on each end of the foldline. Cut out the lining on the fold and open flat.

twill tapeSew a length of twill tape along the centerline of the fur piece with a hand herringbone (zigzag) stitch, keeping edge of tape flat with back of the fur. These stitches can be large as they will not show on the right side of the fur.

Sew twill tape on the outer edges to be sewn, with a hand herringbone (aka catch) stitch, keeping edge of tape flush with edge of fur backing and outline the perimeter with it. Since the “fur” has no seam allowance this will stabilize the edges from stretching and puckering.

herringbone st

Now, starting at the centerline, work with one fur side toward you and place the twill tape on top the fur edge to sandwich the fur edge between two layers of twill tape. Keep edges even and push hairs away from getting caught in tape. Join twill tape to edges with a close whip (overhand) stitch. Since the tape is necessary for reinforce­ment, be sure to catch both tapes as you do so. Sew around the perimeter of the fur piece. fig 1taping

Center the lamb’s wool interfacing on the back of the fur and baste along the center and to the edges. These stitches can be large ones as they will not be visible on the right side. Trim away any excess.

Turn the outer twill tape over the seam and pin to the inside edge on the back while wrapping over the interfacing. Baste twill tape to fur piece. fig 2

Cut the ribbon length in half and secure one end to each of the “X” points. (see illustration) to the fur piece. Cut the loose end on the diagonal.


Turn in 1″ (25 mm) seam allowance on the satin lining and baste along fold. Align notches at centerline. Pin lining to edges covering the twill tape and interfacing. If lining edge puckers, clip shallowly into seam allowance to release. Slipstitch along folded edge of lining to seam edge of fur. Remove basting thread.