Featured: Dry Max Hooded Vest
Chill in a unisex hoodie vest.
You will need:
- Sweat suit fleece *
- Rib binding *
- 1 separating zipper (equal to CF less 1” [25mm])
- Coordinating thread
- Kraft paper
* yardage will depend upon finished length.
The featured hoodie vest from Australian label Black and Blue is 28” long [71 cm].
Bust/Chest – measure around fullest part of upper torso, just under the arms.
Hip/Seat – measure around the fullest part of seat, 9” [23 cm] below waistline.
Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waistline.
Shoulder – measure from side of neck to socket joint of arm.
Finished Length – measure vertically from nape of neck to desired length.
Square 2 lines from A at 90°.
A-B = 1” [25mm]
B-C = finished length + 1” [25mm]
B-D = ½ back waist length
Square across all points.
D-E = ½ bust or hip (whichever is greater) + 1” [25mm]
Square up and down from E to locate F and G.
D-H = 1/4 bust or hip (whichever is greater)
Square down from H to locate I.
B-J = 3 ⅜” [85 mm]
J-K = 1” [25mm]
Connect B to K with a shallow curve as shown.
K-L = shoulder length
L-M = 1 ⅜” [35mm]
Draw a construction line from M to H and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label points N and O.
Draw the back armhole with a smooth curve from M to H, passing through points 1 ⅜” [35mm] from N and 1 ½” [37mm] from O.
F-P = 3 ½” [90mm]
F-Q = 3 ¼” [82mm]
Draw a construction line from P to Q and divide it into 2 equal parts. Label point R.
Draw the front neckline from P to Q passing through a point ¾” [20mm] from R.
Q-S = shoulder length
S-T = 1 ⅜” [35mm]
Draw a construction line from H to T and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label points U and V.
Draw the front armhole with a smooth curve from H to T, passing through points 2” [50mm] from U and 2 ¼” [57mm] from V.
G-W = ¾” [20mm]
Join I to W with a smooth curve. The corner at W is a 90°angle.
For the front facing, draw a line 3” [75mm] parallel to centerfront tapering to 1 ½” [37mm] at the shoulder-neck. Trace off the facing onto additional paper.
For the pocket, W-X = 10” [25.5 cm]
W-Y = 10” [25.5 cm]
Square up from Y; Y-Z = 5” [12.7 cm]
Draw a line from Z to intersection on facing point.
Trace off the pocket onto additional paper.
Square 2 line from 1 at 90°.
1-2 = 13’ [33 cm]
1-3 = 10” [25.5 cm]
Square across from 2 and square up from 3 to locate 4 at the intersection.
3-5 = 3” [76 cm]
3-6 = front neckline mmt. + back neckline mmt. from body draft.
Draw a construction line from 5 to 6 and divide it into 2 equal parts. Label point 7.
Draw the neckline with a smooth curve between 5 and 6, passing through a point ½” [12mm] from point 7.
1-8 = 7 ¾” [19.8 cm]
2-9 = 6 ¼” [16 cm]
Join 8 to 9 with a curved line passing through a point 2 ¼” [57mm] from point 2.
For hood facing, 4-10 = 2” [5 cm]
5-11 = 2” [5 cm]
Join 10 to 11 and trace off neckline between 5 to 11.
Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces except hemline.
Grainlines are parallel to CF and CB.
Back – cut 1X self on fold
Front – cut 2X self
Front Facing – cut 2X self
Hood – cut 2X self
Pocket – cut 2X self
Cut rib binding to fit.
Design Tip: Use a contrast colour for the hood and rib binding
- Trim pocket opening with ribbed binding.
- With pockets up-side down and FACE DOWN on CF, stitch top of pocket to fronts.
- Flip pockets FACE UP and align with bottom edge of fronts. From the inside of the pocket, stitch short side from pocket opening to hem to the fronts. Baste the rest of the pocket to the fronts.
- With fronts FACE UP, stitch zipper (separated) face down to CF and 1” [25mm] from bottom edge.
- Align and match front facing to zippered edge with right sides facing together. Stitch facing to CF and 1” [25mm] from bottom edge. Trim bulk from bottom of facing at the hem and turn right side out.
- Attach fronts to back at shoulders. Stitch shoulder seam and press open.
- Trim armholes with ribbed binding.
- With right sides together (RST), match side seams and sew fronts to back. Press seam towards back. Trim seam allowance or overlock and topstitch on FACE SIDE along the seam on back section.
- Turn up hem 1” [25mm] and press. Open fold and re-fold raw edge to crease line. Fold up remainder of hem. Stitch down.
- On FACE SIDE, topstitch hem edge including the front facing.
- Align and match neck of front facing to neck of fronts. Secure front facing at the shoulder seam.
- With fronts FACE UP, topstitch CF along zipper.
- With RST, align and match top and CB of hood. Stitch center seam. Press to one side. Trim seam allowance or overlock and topstitch on FACE SIDE along hood’s center seam.
- Neaten facing edge of hood with a seam finish or overlock.
- With RST, align and pin/baste neckline of hood to body’s neckline. Wrap hood facing around the CF edge and back along neckline. Stitch hood to neckline. Trim and grade seam allowance.
- Flip hood facing FACE UP and turn facing to inside the hood. Edge-stitch open edge of hood facing to the hood.
- On FACE SIDE, topstitch along neckline seam.