stefano pilati for YSLFeatured:  Stefano Pilati for YVES SAINT LAURENT

Explore volume and proportion by challenging conventional principles of tailoring for your Autumn wardrobe. Here is a great example by Stefano Pilati for YVES SAINT LAURENT, a ‘zoot’ trouser balancing a fitted cropped top. The pattern draft is a bit more advanced for those daring to try pleated trousers yet it is an easy project to construct.

You will need:

  • Bottom-weight fashion fabric, 54” [137cm] wide **
  • ¼ yd. [0.25 m] of fusible interfacing, 45” [114cm] wide.
  • ⅓ yd. [0.30 m] of pocketing fabric, 45” [114 cm] wide
  • 1 zipper, 7” [18 cm] long.
  • 1 set of pant hook & bar
  • Kraft paper

** A minimum of 3 yards of fabric is required for pleated trousers – for an average sized person. If you’re taller than 6′ – you’ll need 3 1/2 yards of fabric.

MEASUREMENTS

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso just above the navel.

Hip – measure around fullest part of seat, about 9” [23cm] below waistline.

Body Rise – measure vertically from waistline to top of chair seat, while seated.

Outseam – measure vertically from waist to heels.

Trouser Bottom Width – measure length of foot.

PATTERN

Easy Fit template for “baggy” trousers.

easy fitting pant draft

Front (Red)

Draw a long straight line down center of the paper and plot point 0 at the top end.

Square both ways from 0.

0-1 = body rise – waistband width + ⅜” [10mm]; square across.

0-2 = 9” [23cm] – waistband width; square across.

0-3 = outseam – waistband width; square across. (creaseline)

1-4 = half the measurement of 1-3 minus 2” [50mm]; square across.

1-5 = 1/12 of hip + ¾” [20mm]; square up to locate 6 and 7 at intersections.

6-8 = ¼ of hip + 1” [25mm].

5-9 = 1/16 of hip + ⅜” [10mm].

7-10 = ⅜” [10mm].

Join 10-6 with a straight line and 6-9 with a smooth curve, missing 5 by approx. 1 ⅜” [35mm].

10-11 = ¼ of waist + 2” [50mm].

3-12 = ½ of trouser bottom width – ¼” [6mm]; join 8-12 with a straight line. Mark point 13 on kneeline.

Draw in side seam; join 8-11 with a slight curve.

3-14 = ½ of trouser bottom width – ¼” [6mm].

4-15 = the distance of 4-13.

Draw inside leg seam; join 14-15 with a straight line; join 9-15 with a slight curve inwards ⅜” [10mm] as shown.

Back (Blue)

5-16 = ¼ of measurement 1-5; square up to locate 17 on hipline and 18 on the waistline.

16-19 = half the distance 16-18.

18-20 = ¾” [20mm].

20-21 = ¾” [20mm].

21-22 = ¼ of waist + 2 ⅜” [60mm]; join 21-22 to touch the horizontal line from 0.

9-23 = half the distance 5-9.

23-24 = ⅛” [3mm].

Join 21-19 with a straight line; join 19-24 with a deep curve missing 16 by approx. 1 ¾” [45mm].

17-25 = ¼ of hip + ¾” [20mm].

12-26 = ⅜” [10mm].

13-27 = ⅜” [10mm].

Draw in side seam; 22-25 curves outward slightly; 25-27 curve inwards slightly and join 27-26 with a straight line.

14-28 = ⅜” [10mm].

15-29 = ⅜” [10mm].

Draw inside leg seam; join 28-29 with a straight line; join 29-24 with a curve inwards by ⅜” [10mm].

Design Note: PUT EXTRA EASE IN THE SEAT ANGLE (CB seam)

Most easy fitting trousers require extra ease in the back crotch line, especially pleated pants. Trace off back section of trouser template and add more ease. Begin by, cutting along the hipline and spread open a wedge as desired, approximately 1 ½” [40mm] wide at the back CB line. (The more rounded the behind, the greater the seat angle.) Re-draw the back seam curve as shown.

easy fitting pant adaptation

Style Adaptation

Pleated “zoot” trousers are full at the waistline and shaped in at the hem.

Trace round basic easy-fit trouser template onto additional paper.

Back Section *

Add additional ease in CB seam if necessary (see above).

Mark points (a) and (b) on hemline ¾” [20 mm] inward from leg seam.

Draw straight line from (a) to kneeline.

Draw in a bowed outseam (curve) from hipline tapering to (b).

Shape the bottom hemline with a slight curve outward ⅜” [10mm]. ***

Divide line 21-22 into 3 equal parts. At each point, draw in a waist suppression dart.      (2 in total).

Dart = 1 ⅛” wide x 4” long [30mm x 100mm].

Front Section *

Trace round front trouser template onto additional paper.

Cut across kneeline; then cut top section dividing along the crease (grainline). Spread open at waistline for desired amount of pleating and extend waistline at side seam to blend smoothly with outseam of leg.  (For instance, open 2” [50mm] at waist and extend 1 ⅜” [35mm] at side seam. With dart allowance this gives 4 ⅛” [10.5 cm] fullness).

Divide fullness into 3 equal pleats.

Design Note: More fullness can be added at the waistline by opening the grainline further at the waist and making deeper pleats.

Mark points (c) and (d) on hemline ¾” [20 mm] inward from leg seam.

Draw straight line from (d) to kneeline.

Draw in a bowed outseam (curve) from hipline tapering to (c).

Shape the bottom hemline with a straight line. ***

Grainline is parallel to creaseline.

For fly & fly facing *, trace off CF seam and waistline from 10.

Draw a parallel line 2” [50mm] from CF line and taper 1” [25cm] below zipper notch.

Grainline is parallel to CF line.

For waistband *, draw a long rectangle equal to the waist measurement X desired width.

Add a 2” [50mm] extension to one short end of pattern.

pocketMirror the final dimensions of the waistband along the foldline.

Grainline is parallel to foldline.

For sideseam pockets, make a pocket bag pattern *.

A-B = 9” [23 cm]; square across from A and B.

A-C = 6” [15 cm]; square down to locate D.

A-E =  6” [15 cm]; square across.

B-F = 1” [2.5 cm]; square up to G.

Draw in an arc with a compass from H to I as shown.

Fold paper on line C-D and trace off C-A-E-G-H-I-D as mirrored image. Open flat for bag pattern piece.

Grainline is parallel to foldline.

lay* Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

*** Add 1 ¼” [30mm] hem allowances to trouser bottoms.

CUTTING

Front Leg – cut 2X self

Back Leg – cut 2X self

Waistband – cut 1X self

Waistband Interfacing – cut 1X fusible

Fly – cut 3X self

Pocket Bag – cut 2X pocketing

ASSEMBLY

1. Fold pocket bag piece in half crossways and stitch a French seam along curved edge of bag. Set aside.

 

2. Iron fusible interfacing to back (wrong side) of waistband, following manufacturer’s directions. Set aside.

 

3. Fold pleats along waistline of front trousers and baste down. Set aside.

 

4. Sew waist darts on back trouser. Set aside.

 

5. Finish seams on all cut pieces with pinking shears or overlock machine.

6. With right sides together (RST), align and match side seam of front and back trouser legs. Leaving a 6” opening from top edge of cut pieces for pockets, sew up the side seam and press open.

Attach a pocket bag to each seam allowance at the opening and stitch in place. Set aside.

 

7. flyWith RST, sew curved edge of fly facing. Grade seam allowance and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Press seam and topstitch. With the fly facing FACE UP and the curved edge to your left, stitch the zipper FACE UP to the straight edge of the fly facing (fig.1). Set aside.

 

8. With RST, sew fly to right front leg. Grade seam allowance and press seam to one side. Under-stitch fly.

 

9. With RST, align and match front pieces along CF line and crotch. Stitch from bottom of fly to within 2” of the inseam.

10. With the fronts FACE UP, sew the fly facing FACE DOWN to the left front leg. This will encase the zipper into the CF seam. Flip the zipper FACE UP and edge-stitch along the zipper teeth (fig. 2).

 

11. Lay the front of the trousers FACE UP. Align the CF line and smooth out the fly opening. Baste the fly opening shut. Once completed, fold the fronts in half with the left front leg on top. Pin back the fly facing to reveal the zipper FACE DOWN on the fly. Stitch the zipper tape to the fly. (fig. 3) Baste curved edge of fly to left front.

 

12. With garment FACE UP, sew a J-stitch to secure the fly. Begin with a bar-tack at the bottom of the fly opening and topstitch the J-stitch following the basting thread markings up to the top.

 

13. With RST, align and match back and front at the inseam. Baste/pin raw edges together along the inseam of each leg. Sew inseams and press seam open.

 

14. crotch1Pull one leg RIGHT SIDE OUT and drop down into other leg. Align and match up inner leg seam and CB crotch seam. Baste/pin crotch seam. Sew seam from bottom of fly to top edge of back section (in a U-shape). Turn garment RIGHT SIDE OUT and set aside.

 

15. Turn under seam allowance on one long edge of waistband and press flat. Fold waistband in half, with RST and stitch up short ends, allowing for seam allowance. Trim corners and grade. Turn waistband RIGHT SIDE OUT.

 

16. Pin raw edge of waistband FACE UP to inside edge of trousers waistline, allowing for 2” [50mm] extension on left-hand side of waistband. Ease in waistline onto waistband. Baste across top of pocket bag and pleats. Stitch waistband to waistline, ensuring to catch top of front pocket and pleats in the seaming. Grade seam allowance and turn up into waistband. Align and match folded edge of waistband to machine-stitching on FACE SIDE of garment. Edge-stitch the waistband to the garment.

 

17. On each cuff bottom, turn up 1 ¼” [30mm] hem. Turn under ¼” [6mm] and hand-stitch hem in place.

 

18. Hand-stitch set of hooks and bars onto the waistband, just above the zipper.

 

Design Tip: Design the waistband width ½” [12 mm] greater than the width of your favourite belt and add belt loops.

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MEASUREMENTS

Waist – measure narrowest part of torso at navel level.

Seat – measure around fullest part of hips approximately 8″[20 cm] below the waist.

Body Rise – measure drop from waistline to crotch level.

Outseam – measure distance from waistline to floor.

Bottom width – desired width of jean leg bottoms (minimum amount must allow for measurement of foot around the heel).

PATTERN

Jean Template: Front

Square both ways from 0.

0-1 = body rise minus width of waistband: square across.

0-2 = waist to seat minus waistband width; square across.

0-3 = outseam measurement; square across.

1-4 = half the distance of 1-3 minus 2″[5cm]; square across.

1-5 = 1/12 of seat measurement + 3/8″[1cm]; square up to 6 and 7.

6-8 = ¼ of seat measurement.

5-9 = 1/16 of seat measurement.

7-10 = 5/8″[1.5cm].

Join 10-6 and 6-9 with a curve touching a point 1 ¼”- 1 ½” [3.25-3.75cm] from 5.

10-11 = ¼ waist + ½”[1.25cm]

3-12 = ½ of bottom width minus 1/8″[0.5cm].

4-13 = the measurement 3-12 + ¾”[2cm].

Draw side seam 11,8,13,12; curve 8-11 out 1/8″[0.5 cm].

3-14 = ½ bottom width minus 1/8″[0.5cm].

4-14 = the measurement 3-14 + ¾”[2cm].

Draw inside leg seam 9, 15, 14. Curve in 9-15 by 1/8″[0.5cm]

Jean Template: Back

5-16 = ¼ of distance 1-5; square up to 17 on hipline, 18 on the waistline.

16-19 = ½ of distance 16-18.

18-20 = ¾”[2cm].

20-21 = ¾”[2cm].

21-22 = ¼ of  waist + 1″[2.5cm]. Join 21-22 to touch the line squared out from 0.

9-23 = ½ of distance 5-9 minus 1/8″[0.5cm].

23-24 = 1/8′[0.5cm].

Join 21-19 and 19-24 with a curve touching a point 1 ½”- 1 ¾”[4-4.5cm] from 16.

17-25 = ¼ seat + 1/8″[0.5cm].

12-26 = 3/8″[1cm]

13-27 = 3/8″[1cm]

Draw side seam 22, 25, 27, 26. Curve out slightly at 25.

14-28 = 3/8″[1cm]

15-29 = 3/8″[1cm]

Draw inside leg seam 24,29,28; curve 24-29 in 3/8″[1cm].

21-30 = ½ of 21-22; square down from line 21-22. Construct a dart on the line, 1/2′”[1.25cm] wide.

To Complete Jean Front

Trace off front section from template draft. Mark point 6.

Draw in curved pocket line 31-32 and pocket bag.

Cut off side piece along the line 31-32; add 1-3/8″[3.5cm] from 31-32.

Draw in fly piece shape to point 33 3/8″[1cm] below 6.

Fly piece width = 1 ½ – 1 ¾”[3.7-4.5cm] wide.

Trace off fly piece.

Trace off pocket bag along line 31-32.

To Complete Jean Back

Trace off back section from template draft. Mark points 16, 17, 21, 22, 24 and 25.

Cut along hipline 17-25, open a wedge approx. 1 ½”[4cm] wide at 17.

(Note: for rounder behinds increase more if desired).

17-34 = 1/8″[0.5cm]; draw in new crotch seamfrom 21-24.

Draw in patch pocket design. (Note: opening must allow for width of hand).

21-35 = ¼ of distance 21-16.

22-36 = ¼ of distance 22-25.

Cut off yoke along line 35-36; close dart.

Curve the line 21-22 and 35-36.

Patch Pocket – trace off back pocket.

Waistband

The jean waistband is cut with ease (1 ¼”[3 cm] larger than waist measurement to fit lower waist position).

37-38 = 2 x waistband width; square across.

38-39 = waist measurement + 1 ¼”[3cm]; square up.

39-40 = fly width; square up.

39-41 = ½ of distance 38-39; square up, label CB and CF. Mark foldline down center.

These long and loose bottoms score high on the comfort index. The fabrics are fluid and the prints are fun, which means they are less for curling up on the sofa than for spending a weekend afternoon in style. Think silk, linen, rayon, or cotton…something lightweight and drapy. Balance them with a body-fitting top or stay faithful to the bedtime look with a big and beautiful sweater.

Featured: Blue-green silk pajama pants from Dries Van Noten

The cut and fabrication of these loungers is novice level and fits many shapes and sizes. It’s an easy “no-pattern” afternoon project.

You need:

  • 1 ½ yds. of fashion fabric, 44-45″ wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • 1 pkg. of 1″ wide waistband elastic or 60″ drawcord
  • Tailor’s chalk
  • Tape measure

PATTERN

No real pattern is required but if you wish to make several pants you can make a paper template.

Recommended to control the fullness at the gathered waist is elastic or a drawsting. The waist can accommodate 30″ to 52″ approximately.

For the cut, measure your finished pant length. (waist to heel). Add 1″ for cuff hem allowance and 1 ½ ” for waist casing to this measurement. Record it.

Straighten the cut edges of your fashion fabric and square across the width.

Measure along the selvedge the pant length measurement and square a line across the width with tailor’s chalk

Divide the section equally in half parallel to the selvedge with a chalk line. These are the left and right leg sections.

On each leg section, measure in approx. 2-4″ from the lines. This may vary based on how fitted a bottom cuff you want (must be able to get your foot through however). Then, measure along the length and find the midpoint. Chalk a notch. (X and O on diagram). Join Xs and Os to bottom points at hem with a straight edge using chalk.

Take this “midpoint” measurement and plot it along the waistline. Add 13″ for the rise. Square up on remaining fabric parallel to selvedge and mark with chalk. This is the gusset section.

Divide the gusset section in half by squaring across the fabric width.

Measure across top and bottom the distance equal to half the leg distance from waistline to X. Plot it and mark with chalk. Repeat but measure the dividing line from the opposite end. Join the notches with a straight edge. (see diagram).

Cut on the chalk lines. You will have a left leg side, a right leg side, and 2 pairs of gussets.

ASSEMBLY

Finish raw edges with desired seam finish. (I used pinking shears).

With right sides together, pin and baste a gusset to each center portion of the legs. (Match Xs and Os). Stitch seam and press open.

With right sides together, fold each leg section in half lengthwise and pin and paste inseam from crotch to hem. Stitch inseam and press seam open.

Turn one leg section right side out and place it down the other leg section. Match up CF and CB at waist and align inseams. Pin and baste gussets together and stitch crotch seam. Press open. Turn pants right side out.

Turn under 1/2″ at waistline and press. Turn under 1″ all round and machine stitch down to create a casing. Open a slit in the front crotch seam at the waist to insert an elastic or drawcord. (make elastic equal to your waist measurement less 2″ if using).

Hem bottoms of legs using a 1″ hem allowance.

body proportionsThis pattern design method can be used to determine drafting measurements from a given figure height combined with girth measurements for the chest, waist and hips. Knowing the person’s height allows for formulations of various lengths based on the Golden Mean and combined with established size parameters, a trouser or torso pattern can be drafted for an average human body.

H = full length of body; also the span of laterally outstretched arms, measured from finger-tip to finger-tip, is equal to the height of the body.

1/2 H = upper part of body (torso) or lower part of body (legs)

1/4 H = length of leg from ankle to knee and length from chin to navel

1/6 H = length of foot and length of forearm (measured from elbow to wrist)

1/8 H = length of head from crown to bottom of chin

1/10 H = height of face; also length of hand

Drafting By Height: Trousers (based on 8 heads per figure)

The theory based upon the Golden Mean can be used to determine drafting measurements from a given figure height of an average or off-proportioned body. You need the following measurements to draft a trouser pattern: height, waist and hips. The scale is one head equals 1/8 of the total height.

Example:

for a person who is 5 feet 8 inches tall, one head length is 8 ½”

5′ 8″ = 68″ 68″/8 = 8.5″

Rise is 1 head plus 1″ ease plus width of the waistband

eg. rise = 1/8 height + ease + waistband width

Inseam is 4 heads minus Y (amount taken off for width of trouser cuffs)

eg. inseam = 1/2 height – Y

Outseam is inseam plus rise, or

5 heads plus ease minus Y plus waistband width

eg. outseam = 5/8 height + ease – Y + waistband width

Example:

Given a height of 5 feet, 8 inches, trouser cuff width of 18″ and a waistband 1-1/2″ wide, then:

rise = 68/8 + 1 + 1.5 = 11

inseam = 68/8 – 2.5 = 31.5

outseam = 5/8 x 68 + 1 – 2.5 + 1.5 = 42.5

Table for Leg Reduction (Y amount)

for bottom width take off Y amount *
24″ 1″
23″ 1.25″
22″ 1.5″
21″ 1.75″
20″ 2″
19″ 2.25″
18″ 2.5″

* for shaped trouser cuffs, use less Y amount (0.5″ to 0.75″)

pant draftTrouser draft:

square both ways at 0.

0-1 = body rise + 3/8″ [1cm]; square across

0-2 = waist to hip; square across. (approx. 8-9″ [20-23 cm]).

0-3 = outseam; square across

1-4 = midway between 1-3 minus 2″ [5 cm]; square across.

1-5 = 1/12 hip mmt. + 5/8″ [18 mm]; square up to locate points 6 and 7.

6-8 = ¼ hip mmt. + 3/8″ [10 mm]

5-9 = 1/16 hip mmt. + 3/8″ [10mm]

7-10 = 3/8″ [10mm] squared across and 3/8″ [10 mm] squared down

Join 10-6 with straight line and join 6-9 with a curve line as shown.

This is the centerfront crutch seam.

Square up and down from point 8.

10-11 = ¼ waist mmt. + 3/8″ [10mm] (note: point 11 will “sit” on line 7.)


12 is located at intersection of 3 and 8.

13 is located at intersection of 4 and 8.

Square down from 5 to locate 14 and 15

5-16 = 1/2 mmt of line 5-9

6-17 = ¼ mmt of line 5-9

7-18 = 3/8″ [10mm]; join 17-18 and extend as a tangent line

19-20 = ¼ waist mmt. + 3/8″ [10 mm], taken at a 90 degree angle from tangent line so that line 19-20 touches the line 7-11. (Note: point 19 will be located on the right angle and the constructed line may not touch at point 11 as shown.)

9-21 = ½ mmt. of 5-9

Join 17-21 with curved line as shown

3-22 = 1/4 trouser cuff width minus 1/4″ [6 mm]

23 is located on kneeline.

3-24 = ¼ trouser cuff width minus 1/4″ [6 mm]

4-25 = 4-23

Join 24-25 with a straight line and 25-9 with a curved line as shown.

24-26 = 3/4″ [20 mm]

25-27 = 3/4″ [20mm]

Join 26-27 with a straight line and 27-21 with a parallel curved line as shown.

5-28 = ¼ hip mmt. + 1/4″ [6 mm]

Join 22-23-28-8 and gently curve into 20 to draw outseam leg seam.

This is an easy fit type trouser pattern. Trace off front and back patterns. If you desire extra ease (seat angle) in crutch of trouser’s back portion, cut along back hipline and open a wedge about 1-1/2″ [40 mm] wide at CB to nil at side seam. Redraw centerback seam.