lacy-camisole-ella mossFeatured: Ella Moss Camisole

Lacy lingerie-inspired camisoles are the hottest tops for summer. Treat yourself to a fluid bias-cut top, similar to this one by L.A.’s Pamella Protzel for Ella Moss. The “bias-cut” technique is used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the bias or diagonal direction of the fabric, causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly, thereby eliminating the need for darts.

You will need:

  • Approx. 1 ½ yds. [1.4 m] of fashion fabric, 45” [114cm] wide.
  • ½ yd. [0.5 m] of insertion lace, 1” – 2″[25-50 mm] wide.
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure around fullest part of chest just under the arms.

Armhole Depth – measure vertically from top of shoulder to armpit level.

Neck – measure around base of neck.

Back width – measure across shoulder blades from armpit to armpit.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waist line.

PATTERN

bias2

Fold paper in half lengthwise. Plot X at the top of the foldline.

Along the foldline, square across from X at a 90° angle.

X-A = back waist length + ⅜” [10mm]; square across.

A-B = 6” [15.2 cm]; square across.

X-C = armhole depth + ⅝” [15mm]; square across.

X-D = half the measurement X-C; square across.

X-E = one fifth the measurement X-D; square across.

X-F = one sixth the neck size; square up.

F-G = ¾” [20mm].

C-H = half of the back width – ⅝” [15mm]; square up to locate I and J at the intersection of lines.

Join G to J with a straight line.

C-K = quarter of the bust measurement – ⅝” [15mm]; square down to locate M on waist line and L on high-hip line.

Draw an armhole curve from I to K as shown.

M-N = 1 ⅝” [45mm]; shape sideseam with a smooth curve between K and L.

Shape the hemline at a 90° angle from L, missing B by ⅜” [10mm].

Draw a square box with 2 sides located at A. Draw a grainline through opposite corners of the box.

For shoulder strap, measure distance from J-I-K. Double the amount and plot it on a straight line.

K-O = 1 ⅝” [40mm]; join O-O and K-O with a straight line.

Draw a grainline at 45° to K-O.

Add seam allowance to body pieces except for armhole & shoulder straps.

 

Cutting Tip: Widen seam allowances for bias-cut. Although bias cuts don’t fray, the fibers on cut edges relax and open up, so even half-inch away from a cut edge isn’t an accurate stitching line. To your pattern pieces, add 1-1/2-inch-wide seam allowances. Use 1/2-inch seam allowances at the neckline for the lace trim. Always mark stitching lines with thread as soon as the fabric is cut, before removing the pattern pieces. Once sewing and pressing are done, seams can be trimmed.

layCUTTING

Front – cut 1X self

Back – cut 1X self

Shoulder strap – cut 2X self (make longer than needed for shaping)

Trim – Cut length of lace to match width at top of the garment.

Fitting Tip: Pin/baste the fabric pieces together and try it on before you sew the garment. This is called trial fitting, and it allows you the chance to define the fit of the bias cut with better accuracy and mark the stitching lines. If you’re sewing a garment for someone else, have them try on the fitting. Allow enough “ease” to slip over the head.

ASSEMBLY

  1. Sew a narrow double-rolled hem across the top edge of the back piece turning it to the inside.
  2. Fold the top edge of the front piece to the outside and stitch along folded edge. Trim seam allowance close to stitching. Lay insertion lace on top of finished edge and edge-stitch across the bottom of the trim.
  3. bindingWith right sides together, align and match front to back at side seams. Stitch 1” [25mm] from top edge on stitching line. Stay-stitch the armholes.
  4. For shoulder straps, fold the strap pieces in half along its length with wrong sides together to create a bias binding; press lightly. Turn in cut edges of binding to crease of foldine; press. Re-fold center crease and press.
  5. strapPre-shape the bias binding to match armhole edge of garment by stretching the two folded edges to match the shape of the inward curve of the armhole.
  6. Pin/baste binding to armhole, beginning at side seam, and extend the binding as a loop for the shoulder strapping as need. Continue by joining ends on straight grain; turn in one and lap over the other to complete. Stitch the open edge of the binding to the armhole and continue stitching to make the shoulder strap.
  7. Baste your bias-cut garment together along the side seams and drape onto a dressform or let it hang for a day or 2 before you use your sewing machine to complete the seams. This will help to smooth your seams out and encourages the fabric to stretch naturally. Thread-mark the stitching line again if necessary.
  8. Stitch the side seams following the basted stitching line. When stitching seams on your bias-cut garment, be sure to go slowly and allow the fabric to take its natural shape, rather than pulling it taut as you pull it through the sewing machine. It is best to stitch the seams in short bursts, allowing the fabric to relax and take its natural shape each time before continuing. Likewise, once the seams are stitched, allow the garment to hang for a while before you hem the bottom. This will allow the garment to develop a natural fall and ensure that the hems are straight and smooth. When ironing the hem, do not move the iron side to side along the hem as you would with a normal cut garment; instead, move the iron along the line of the bias.
  9. Trim excess away in seam allowance. (I prefer to pink the seam allowance rather than overlock the raw edge.)
  10. Make a narrow rolled edge on the hemline.

Bias-cut garments don’t wrinkle as easily as straight-grain garments do, but they can “grow” on a hanger, so always store them folded and flat.

Advertisements
Featured: Abaete Lauren Top

Ever the chic choice, a simple shell blouse is the definitive feminine look. With cascading sleeves and a universally flattering shift shape, this sweet style is a fabulous day-to-evening option. Shown here, the Lauren top by Abaeté has flutter sleeves and a bateau neck, an easy fashion project to draft and make up in a lovely silky fashion fabric.

You will need:

  • approx. 2 yds. [2 m] of fashion fabric, 45″[115 cm] wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • 1 – hook and eye set

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure just under arm around fullest part of chest.

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso

Armhole Depth – measure from top of shoulder to underarm level.

Back waist length – measure from nape of neck to waist level.

PATTERN

Blouse:

Square down from 0 and square across on the pattern paper.

0-1 = back waist length + 2″ [5cm]; square across.

0-2 = armhole depth measurement + ¾” [2 cm]; square across.

0-3 = 2″ [5 cm]; square across

Extend distance between 2-3 beyond centerback line by ½” [1.25 cm].

2-4 = half bust measurement + 2″ [5 cm]. Square up and down to locate 5, 6, and 7; mark this line the centerfront line.

4-8 = midway 2 and 4 plus 1″ [2.5 cm]; square up and down to locate 9 and 10.

2-11 = half of back width measurement + ¼” [0.7 cm] ease; square up to 13.

Shape back neckline with a shallow curve as shown.

8-12 = 8-11; square up to 14.

Shape front neckline with a shallow curve as shown.

9-15 = 1 ½” [3.75 cm]; connect 15 to 13 and 14 with a straight line.

16 from 13 and 17 from 14 = 1 ½” [3.75 cm].

11-18 = midway 11-13.

12-19 = midway 12-14.

At a 90° from 16 and 17, join 16 to 18 and 17 to 19 with a smooth curve.

4-20 = two-thirds the distance from 4 and 8. Square down.

20-21 = 2″ [5cm].

Find the difference between half the bust measurement and half the waist measurement. Add 2″ [5cm]. Make a waist suppression dart from point 21 with equal distribution of the difference at 22 and 23 on the hem line. (see draft)

NOTE: The waist suppression may be determined by fitting the garment on the body as well.

Grainlines are parallel to centerfront and centerback lines. Add hem allowance. Add seam allowances to centerback, side seams, shoulders, and armholes.

Armhole Ruffle:

Measure armholes from 11-18-16 and 12-19-17. Add amounts together and record this measurement.

Using the formula C = 6.28 x R, determine the radius (R) using the armhole sum for the circle circumference (C).

Using a compass, draw a circle based on this radius. (A-B)

B-C = 5″ [13 cm]

B-D = ¾” [2 cm]

Draw a tapered spiral curve from C to D, pivoting from A as shown.

Grainline is parallel to B-C.

Measure front and back necklines. Double this amount. Make a cutting guide for bias binding (2-3/8″ [6 cm] wide) based on neckline measurement + 5″ [13 cm].

CUTTING

Front – cut 1X self on fold

Back – cut 2X self

Ruffle – cut 4X self

Binding – cut 1X self on bias grain

ASSEMBLY

  1. Staystitch neckline on front and backs as well as corners of square armholes.
  2. Turn under raw edge of extension of back neck opening to create a rolled edge. Slipstitch or topstitch in place.
  3. With right sides together (RST), match up back shoulders to front shoulders. Pin/baste together and sew. Press seam open.
  4. Fold bias strip in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) to create bias binding. Pin raw edge of binding to raw edge of neckline beginning and ending at CB opening. Turn under short ends of binding to neaten and align folded bias strip to right side of neckline. Pin/baste in place. Sew binding around neckline using 3/8″ [1 cm] seam allowance. Wrap binding over neck edge to underside. Align folded edge of binding to overlap machine stitching. Sew binding to neckline face up by “stitching in the ditch” or slipstitching folded edge of binding.
  5. Pair up armhole ruffles. With RST, pin/baste short ends on each pair and sew. Press seam open.
  6. Measure the side seam of the blouse.
  7. Sew a double-rolled hem along the outer edge of each ruffle. Do the same for the inside edge equal to the sideseam measurement beginning from the tip of the spiral.
  8. Clip diagonally each corner of the square armhole up to the stay stitching. With RST, pin/baste unhemmed edge of ruffle to armhole from front corner to back corner. Gather excess on either side of shoulder seam and distribute evenly. Sew gathered ruffle to armhole. Repeat a second stitch 1/8″ [0.25 cm] along side the first stitching. Trim seam allowance.
  9. With RST, pin/baste backs to front at side seams. Sew and press seam open.
  10. Turn under seam allowance twice at underarm to create a double-rolled hem. Slipstitch or topstitch underarm.
  11. With RST, pair the back pieces at centerback and pin/baste along CB seam. Sew seam from bottom of extension to hemline. Press CB seam open.
  12. Create a waist suppression by making front waist dart under the bust on the front of the blouse. Pleat out the excess fabric and stitch up dart. Press dart fold towards sides.
  13. Hem bottom of blouse with a narrow double-rolled hem.
  14. Hand-stitch a hook & eye set at top of CB neck.