hooded cowlFeatured: Missoni Hooded Scarves

For Fall ’09, Missoni is staying true to the label’s knitwear traditions and producing plenty of fabulous pieces including an abundance of hooded scarves. Design one up for yourself and make use of that fabulous knit remnant you have been saving for something special or go big as featured here.

 

You will need:

  • ¾  yd. [0.7 m] of stable knit fashion fabric, 60” [152 cm] wide
  • Matching thread

 

DIMENSIONS: approx. 30” long x 12” wide  [76 cm x 30 cm]

 

PATTERN & CUTTING

This is a patternless design (a simple block draft). You can plot it directly onto your fabric but you will need to straighten the cut ends of your fabric before you are going to cut. The corners should be 90°.  The rectangle should be about 60 inches  long and 25 inches wide [152 cm x 63.5 cm].  Once that is done, you are ready to cut out the shape.

 

Fold the fabric into quarters both vertically and horizontally and align the raw edges (fig.1). At the “open” corner, measure 12” [30.5 cm] from the corner and mark location with a pin (■).

Draw an arc using a circular template (I used a large pie plate) with tailor’s chalk at the corner.

Cut through all 4 layers and remove the excess fabric.

cowl draft

ASSEMBLY

 

Open the fabric flat and refold it in the long direction with the right sides facing together.

Stitch the curved ends together between the ■ using a ¼” [6mm] seam allowance. (fig.2)

 

Open the fabric as a “tube” and refold it in the narrow direction with the right sides facing together. Align the sewn seam and match up the open raw edges. Clip the seam allowance at the ■, if necessary.

 

Stitch around the open edge of the loop using a ¼” [6 mm] seam allowance and leave a 6” [15 cm] opening to turn out. (fig.3) Turn the garment right side out and slip-stitch the opening closed.

 

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tiesFeatured: Silk ties by Terrence Dobbs

Make Dad your own specially-designed tie for Father’s Day.

Fresh from the Hamptons, Terrence Dobbs will inspire you with his ‘Father & Son’ ties.

You will need:

  • 1 square yard [meter] of fashion fabric (try something silky)
  • coordinating thread
  • kraft paper

THE NECKTIE PATTERN

This tie is drafted by height.

The four major parts of the necktie draft equation are the length of the tie from the big tip to the knot, the knot itself, the tie around the neck, and finally the tail end of the tie that is hidden behind the front of the tie. The length should be reasonable so that when one tip is touching the belt buckle, the other tip can be securely held in place in the carrier on the back side.

Height = measure vertically from top of head to heels.

Neck measurement = measure around base of neck.

Tie Width = 3.5 – 4 inches [9-10 cm] (it can vary on current fashion)

Tie Knot = 5 inch allowance [12.5 cm] (Half-Windsor type)

Take a length of kraft paper and fold it lengthwise. (You may glue 2 pieces together if needed).

Along the fold, plot the following:

draftA-B = 0.30 of the height

B-C = neck measurement + ½” [12mm]

C-D = knot allowance

D-E = 0.30 of the height – 3” [75mm]

Square 90° across from foldline at all points.

F-C =  0.75 of tie width

G-C = C-F

Join F and  G with a straight line.

H is mid-point of F-G.

I-C = C-D

J-I = C-F

K-A = tie width; square up.

L-K = K-A

M-L = K-A

Join M to J with a straight line.

Join L to H with a straight line.

Using a set square placed on line L-H, square a line from A to locate N on line M-J.

Join L-A and L-N with a straight line.

O-E = 0.50 of the tie width

O-P = E-O

P-Q = E-O

Join Q and  F with a straight line.

Join P and  H with a straight line.

Using a set square placed on line P-H, square a line from E to locate R on line Q-F.

Join P-E and P-R with a straight line.

Join F to J with a straight line.

At B and D, draw a 1” x 1” square [25mm X 25mm] with one of its sides positioned on the foldline.

Add 3/8” [1cm] seam allowance around the perimeter of the tie pattern.

grainlineCut out the tie pattern and open the folded paper.

Extend line F-G across the pattern piece. Cut through line F-G.

Draw a grainline through opposite corners of the square box at B and D.

CUTTING

layCut 1X self for upper portion of tie.

Cut 1X self for under portion of tie.

Cut 1X self for carrier – 6” X 2 ½” [150 mm X 65mm]

Tip: A rotary cutter is ideal for cutting fabric on bias grain.

ASSEMBLY

1. Make a carrier loop 6 inches by 1 ½ inches [150mm X 40mm].

2. With right sides facing, align and match upper and under portions of tie together at center seam. Pin/baste and stitch seam using a ¼” [5mm] seam allowance. Press seam open.

3. With right sides facing, align and match each tie end along raw edges. Pin/baste and sew each tie point using a 3/8” [1cm] seam allowance. Press seam open. Grade and trim points. Turn tie right side out.

Tip: A wooden chopstick lets you get into tight corners when pressing a seam open.

4. Fold the tie fabric with wrong sides together; align and match raw edges along length of tie. Baste both layers together.

This tie is self-lined. Select which side of the tie will be the face side.

5. Fold the tie carrier in half to form a loop and secure it 10” [25.5cm] from the front tip on the face side of the tie. Sew it to the seam allowance.

6. With the tie face down, fold the basted raw edge 3/8” [1cm] over the center of the tie along its length. Herringbone stitch along the raw edge catching only the top layers of fabric.

Tip: Use waxed thread and a new needle whenever doing hand-stitching.

7. Place the folded edge over the basted raw edges and align to center (careful  not to stretch fabric).  Slipstitch along folded edge, catching only the top layer of fabric to complete the tie.

8. Without touching the  fabric, gently steam the tie  shape. Let fabric cool before handling. (Do not press the tie.)

cape1Featured: Escada Wrap

Here are my favourite bold colour combos for cosy sueded fabrics for those of you planning your new wrap for the spring/summer season. Just in case it looks intimidating, rest assured this is a patternless fashion design (a simple block draft) where the beauty of the fabric shines and bold colour is the star.

You will need:

  • 1 yd [90cm] of fashion fabric, 60” [150cm] wide in colour A*
  • 1 yd [90cm] of fashion fabric, 60” [150cm] wide in colour B*
  • 12 yd. [11m] of double-side flat braid, 2” [50mm] wide
  • Matching crochet yarn (pearl cotton or wool) to make 11 tassels
  • Coordinating thread

Designer Tip:

* Analogous colour schemes – use any colour that lie adjacent to each other on the colour wheel. Your choice of hue may be any tint, shade, or tone.

  • color-wheelRed + Orange
  • Red + Violet
  • Yellow + Green
  • Yellow + Orange
  • Blue + Green
  • Blue + Violet

DIMENSIONS: Approx. 60” X 60” [150 cm X 150cm].

CUTTING

Cut each fabric across its width to create two pairs of panel equal to 16” X 60” [40.5cm X 150cm].  Alternatively, if you desire a longer wrap, cut the panels along the fabric’s length to the desired finished length. (You will need to purchase extra fabric).

ASSEMBLY

tassel

1. Make 11 tassel from yarn. (I used black embroidery wool) Make the cardboard template equal to twice the length of the finished tassel and fold it in half. Wind yarn around template as thick as you desire. Tie off across top and cut through bottom with scissors. Wrap more yarn around the top end and create a tassel.

wrap
2.  Sew one panel of each colour together (I used double-sided microfibre sand-washed silk) with wrong sides facing. Press seam open.

wrap 1
3. Sew each pair together with wrong sides facing, allowing one end of seam to be open for 35” [89cm]. Press seam open and seam allowances flat on face side of fabric.
Apply flat braid (I used black grosgrain ribbon) over the seam allowances of the three seams.

wrap 2

4. Sew flat braid to edge of center opening in fabric, folding ribbon in a mitre at the turn.

wrap 3

5. Sew flat braid to perimeter of fabric, beginning and completing at the center slit opening and miter ribbon braid at each corner.

wrap 4

6. Attach a tassel to corners of wrap and at each seam intersection. (6 total on front hem and 5 total on back hem)

adrienne-landau-fox-stole-741401

 

Featured: Adrienne Landau fur boa

A cute fashion must-have for the cold! Soft-as-silk faux fox fur, luxuriously crafted into a neck boa a-la Prada, to wear whatever the outfit or occasion. An ultra feminine way to keep warm and look chic. Match it with your favourite outerwear or knitwear to create a  new look or make several in different colours!

 

 

Dimensions : 21” long x 4” wide.

 

 

You will need:

  • ¼ yd. [23 cm] faux fox fur
  • 1 yd. [90 cm] satin ribbon, 1 ½” [40 mm] wide
  • ¼ yd. [23 cm] lamb’s wool
  • 3 yds. [2.75 m] twill tape, ½” [12.5 mm] wide
  • Coordinating nylon thread
  • Glover needle #5
  • X-acto knife or safety razor

PATTERN

boa-draft1

Note: There is no seam allowances required.


 

CUTTING

cutting1Fur – cut 1X self * in faux fur

Ties – cut 2X in ribbon – 18” [46 cm] long

Interlining – cut 1X in lamb’s wool

 

* do NOT cut fur with scissors

 

ASSEMBLY

On the fur backing, tape the edges with twill tape. Use a herringbone pattern and taking long stitches, baste the twill tape to the back of the fur. (1)

tapingWith the fur face up, tape the edges with the twill tape a second time. This time “push” all the hairs beneath the tape and overcast a whipstitch along the edge of the twill tape and fur catching the first taping on the underside. Keep your hand-stitches small and even. (2)

Lay the lamb’s wool on the back of the fur. Baste it to the backing through the center of the piece with long stitches. Baste the lamb’s wool around the perimeter of the fur piece. Trim away any excess lamb’s wool.

Turn the twill tape on the fur face to the back side to overlap the lamb’s wool and baste around the perimeter through all the layers. (3)

At each end of fur piece (see ), securely attach a ribbon tie.

ladder-1Fold the fur piece in half lengthwise and butt taped edges together. Use a ladder stitch to complete the neck boa. With the hair side of the fur facing upwards, bring the needle from the back to the front at the top of the opening (a), one stitch width from the edge. On the right side of the opening, insert the needle between the fur and the taped edge (b-c), between the first and second stitches. Pass the needle under the opening and on the opposite side (c-d), insert the needle between the fur and the taped edge (d-e) , between the first and second stitches. Continue working side to side (e-f), pulling the thread to close the opening every four stitches (g). On completion, slip the needle through the last loop to knot and bury the thread inside the boa to hide the end.

Use a comb to fluff out the fur along the seam.