apparel design


oscarFeatured: Oscar de la Renta Tiered Gown

Among the occasion gowns, a tiered empire-waisted number is always a standout with its elegant double-ruffled flounce. In coral silk taffeta, it’s unmistakably Oscar.

You will need:

  • Approx. 4 ½ – 5  yds. [4.2 – 4.6 m] of fashion fabric, 60” [152 cm] wide
  • 1 dress zipper, approx. 15” [30 cm] long
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure around the fullest part of breast, just under the arm.

Chest – measure around upper torso, just under the breast.

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso, just above navel.

Back width – measure across shoulder blades from armhole to armhole.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waistline.

Dart Size = 2 ¾” [7 cm].  (This is an average bust dart amount for a B-cup. More or less darting may be taken, if desired.)

PATTERN

bodice draft 2

Bodice Section:

Draw 2 lines at a 90° angle from point A.

A-B = ¾” [20mm].

B-C = back waist length.

Square across from C. (waistline)

B-D = half of B-C. (bustline)

D-E = quarter of B-C.

D-F = half of bust measurement.

Square up and down from F to locate G and H.

D-I = half of back width

F-J = half of back width + half of dart + ½” [12 mm].

K is located midway between I and J.

Square up from K to located L.

M is located at the intersection from J.

N is located at the intersection on the centerfront line.

F-O = 2 times distance of N-F.

Square across from O.

Square down from K to locate P at intersection.

G-Q = 3” [75 mm].

Q-R = dart size.

F-S = half of line F-J.

S-T = ½’ [12 mm].

Connect Q to T with a straight line and extend to waistline.

Connect R to T with a straight line and extend to waistline.

D-U = quarter of C-D.

Connect M to U with a straight line.

H-V = half of waist measurement less darting.

Join U to V with a straight line.

Place set square on line U-V and draw a line at a 90° angle to connect to P.

At M and P, smooth the chevron with a curve to blend the lines together.

Place set square on baseline and square a line to L. (side seam)

Shoulder strap front placement is located midway between side seam and dart. (■)

Shoulder strap back placement from side seam equals front amount + 1” [25 mm].

To complete draft, cut through the center of the bottom dart and close top dart to release it into bottom dart, pivoting at T. (see silhouette in diagram above)

Fitting Tip: Measure the bottom edge of the bodice pattern and compare to the chest measurement. Adjust the dart with the difference, if necessary.

Grainlines are parallel to CF and CB.

Add ½” [12 mm] seam allowance to bodice pattern. (Cut front pattern on fold)

For shoulder strap, draw a rectangle = back waist length X 5” [12.5 cm].

Skirt Section:

sheath draft

Measure bottom edge of bodice, less darts . This amount is X.

For the upper tier, draw a rectangle.

Make the CF = ½  X – 1” [25 mm] x back waist length + 3” [75 mm].

Make the CB = ½  X + 1” [25 mm] x back waist length + 7” [180 mm].

Connect the bottom with a diagonal line and divide the pattern.

For the lower tier (front & back), draw a rectangle = 2X x back waist length + 3” [75mm].

For the ruffled flounce, draw a rectangle = 2X x back waist length + 1” [25 mm].

Grainlines are parallel to CF and CB.  (Cut upper tier front pattern on the fold).

Note: Seam allowance (1/2″ or 12 mm) is included in skirt section.

Fitting Tip: The finished length may be adapted by adding or subtracting equal amounts from the top edge of the tier panels. Take gown length measurement while wearing evening shoes.

lay

CUTTING

Shoulder Straps – cut 2X self

Bodice Front – cut 2X self

Bodice Back – cut 4X self

Upper Tier Front – cut 1X self

Upper Tier Back – cut 2X self

Lower Tier – cut 2X self

Flounce Ruffle – cut 4X self

ASSEMBLY

1. Make 2 shoulder straps. With right sides together (RST), fold strap piece in half lengthwise and sew along long open edge. Press seam open. Turn strap RIGHT SIDE OUT. Center seam in middle of width and press flat. Set aside.

 

2. Make flounce. With RST, sew ruffle panels together along short ends of rectangle to make a “loop”. Press seams open.

 

With RST, fold the loop in half aligning the raw edges and matching the seams. Sew around the loop, leaving a 6” [15 cm] opening for turning out. Turn flounce RIGHT SIDE OUT and fold 2” [50mm] from seam. Press gently along fold. Set aside.

 

3. Sew darts on front bodice pieces.

 

4. Sew bodice backs to bodice front at side seams. Press seams open.

 

5. Pin/baste shoulder straps to bodice at ■. (You may need to adjust its length).

 

6. With RST, sew the bodice pieces together along the top edge, ensuring to catch shoulder straps in the stitching. With inner bodice (lining) FACE UP, under-stitch along top edge of bodice. Turn under seam allowance on lower edge of inner bodice and press flat. Set aside.cornerb

 

7. With RST, sew upper tier backs to upper tier front, matching at side seams and CB seam from bottom of zipper opening. Press seams open.

 

Turn under top edge of upper tier by 1 ½” [40 mm] and gently press fold.

With RST, stitch a diagonal seam at each corner of zipper opening. Trim excess away and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Set aside.

8. With RST, sew lower tier panels at side seams and press seams open. Turn under top edge of lower tier by 1 ½” [40 mm] and gently press fold. Hem bottom edge with a ¼” [6 mm] double-rolled hem finish.ruffle

 

9. With lower tier and flounce FACE UP, attach flounce to bottom edge of lower tier. Gather along the horizontal seam of the flounce and ruffle the top edge. Distribute the gathers evenly along the bottom edge of the lower tier and stitch through all the layers 2” [50 mm] from fold. ( gathering ratio = 2:1)

 

10. With upper and lower tiers FACE UP, attach lower tier to bottom edge of upper tier matching at the side seams. Gather 1” [25 mm] from the top fold of the lower tier and ruffle the top edge. Distribute the gathers evenly along the bottom edge of the upper tier and stitch through all the layers 1” [25 mm] from fold. (ratio = 2:1). From inside the garment, stitch the ½” [12 mm] seam allowance of the lower tier to bottom edge of upper tier.

 

11. With upper tier and bodice FACE UP, attach upper tier to bottom edge of bodice matching at the CF, side seams, and CB seam. Gather 1” [25 mm] from the top fold of the upper tier and ruffle the top edge. Distribute the gathers evenly along the bottom edge of the bodice and stitch through all the layers 1” [25 mm] from fold. (gathering ratio = 2:1). Press seam upward.

 

12. Insert dress zipper into CB seam from top of bodice using the center slot application.

 

13. Align bottom edge of inner bodice to stitching line and match at seams. Slip-stitch along bottom edge of inner bodice and along zipper tape.

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tweed cape_lubaFeatured: Luba tweed cloak

The sunburst yoke, always a favourite, is the feature of this flattering and simple cloak. This one by Luba is fashioned in tweed but any double-faced bottom-weight fashion fabric will do.

You will need:

  • approx. 3 yds. [2.75 m] of fashion fabric, 54” [137 cm] wide.
  • ½ yd. [0.5 m] of stay tape, 1/2” [12 mm] wide.
  • coordinating thread
  • kraft paper

DIMENSIONS: approx. 44” [112  cm] long  and 160” [400 cm ] sweep.

PATTERN

cape draft

Cape Section

Draw 2 lines across paper at a 90° angle from point A.

A-B = width of fashion fabric less 2” [75 mm]; eg. 52” [132 cm].

A-C = A-B.

A-D = 9” [23 cm].

A-E = A-D.

Arc a radius of 9” [23 cm] from A connecting D to E.

D-F = 8” [20 cm].

E-G = D-F.

Arc a radius of 17” [43.2 cm] from A connecting F to G.

A-H = A-B on a 45° tangent line taken from A.

I is located at the intersection of F-G.

Arc a radius of 52” [132 cm] from  connecting B, H, and C.

Extend C to E by 1” [25  mm]; draw a parallel line to C-E.

Sunburst Yoke Section

cape yoke

Create the sunburst detail on the yoke with 11 neckline darts.

Reduce the neckline to 8” [40.5 cm]  from D to E. (Total measurement = 16″)

Dart width = 1 ⅛” [30 mm].

Design Note: For a smaller neckline, increase the number of darts. Keep the darting symmetrical to create the sunburst effect.

Place first dart on line A-I.

Place second dart (half-width) at centerback (D-F). Both are 8” [20  cm] long.

Divide distance between the 2 darts equally into thirds. Square 6” [15.2 cm] from line D-E. Draw in a dart at each location.

Divide distance between A-I and E-G equally into thirds. Square 6” [15.2 cm] from line D-E. Draw in a dart at each location.

Trace off yoke section onto folded paper with D-F on the foldline.

Separate yoke at shoulderline (A-I).

For neckline tie, draw a rectangle 54” long  X  2” wide  [137 cm x 5 cm].

Add ½” [12 mm] seam allowance to tie, yoke seams, shoulders, neckline, and hem.

cape layCUTTING

Cape Body – cut 1X self

Yoke Back – cut 1X self

Yoke Front – cut 2X self

Cape Tie – cut 1X self

Cutting Tip: Align front edges of pattern pieces on selvedge of fabric for a neat  seam finish.

ASSEMBLY

1. With right sides together (RST), fold tie in half lengthwise and sew each end of tie leaving neck measurement open at center. Trim corners and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Set aside.

 

2. With right sides together, sew yoke fronts to yoke back at shoulders.  Grade seams and fold along shoulder seam with wrong sides together. With yoke FACE UP, sew dart at shoulder seam and secure shoulderline on underside with stay tape.

 

3. With wrong sides together, sew up darts along neckline on yoke.

 

4. With RST, sew yoke to body along yokeline. Grade seam and press upward. With garment FACE UP, topstitch yokeline.

 

5. Turn in 1” [25 mm] along CF edge. Topstitch in place.

 

6. Align and match tie to neckline of cape. Sew tie to neckline. Tuck seam allowance into tie and slip-stitch opening closed.

 

7. Hem sweep of cape.

stefano pilati for YSLFeatured:  Stefano Pilati for YVES SAINT LAURENT

Explore volume and proportion by challenging conventional principles of tailoring for your Autumn wardrobe. Here is a great example by Stefano Pilati for YVES SAINT LAURENT, a ‘zoot’ trouser balancing a fitted cropped top. The pattern draft is a bit more advanced for those daring to try pleated trousers yet it is an easy project to construct.

You will need:

  • Bottom-weight fashion fabric, 54” [137cm] wide **
  • ¼ yd. [0.25 m] of fusible interfacing, 45” [114cm] wide.
  • ⅓ yd. [0.30 m] of pocketing fabric, 45” [114 cm] wide
  • 1 zipper, 7” [18 cm] long.
  • 1 set of pant hook & bar
  • Kraft paper

** A minimum of 3 yards of fabric is required for pleated trousers – for an average sized person. If you’re taller than 6′ – you’ll need 3 1/2 yards of fabric.

MEASUREMENTS

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso just above the navel.

Hip – measure around fullest part of seat, about 9” [23cm] below waistline.

Body Rise – measure vertically from waistline to top of chair seat, while seated.

Outseam – measure vertically from waist to heels.

Trouser Bottom Width – measure length of foot.

PATTERN

Easy Fit template for “baggy” trousers.

easy fitting pant draft

Front (Red)

Draw a long straight line down center of the paper and plot point 0 at the top end.

Square both ways from 0.

0-1 = body rise – waistband width + ⅜” [10mm]; square across.

0-2 = 9” [23cm] – waistband width; square across.

0-3 = outseam – waistband width; square across. (creaseline)

1-4 = half the measurement of 1-3 minus 2” [50mm]; square across.

1-5 = 1/12 of hip + ¾” [20mm]; square up to locate 6 and 7 at intersections.

6-8 = ¼ of hip + 1” [25mm].

5-9 = 1/16 of hip + ⅜” [10mm].

7-10 = ⅜” [10mm].

Join 10-6 with a straight line and 6-9 with a smooth curve, missing 5 by approx. 1 ⅜” [35mm].

10-11 = ¼ of waist + 2” [50mm].

3-12 = ½ of trouser bottom width – ¼” [6mm]; join 8-12 with a straight line. Mark point 13 on kneeline.

Draw in side seam; join 8-11 with a slight curve.

3-14 = ½ of trouser bottom width – ¼” [6mm].

4-15 = the distance of 4-13.

Draw inside leg seam; join 14-15 with a straight line; join 9-15 with a slight curve inwards ⅜” [10mm] as shown.

Back (Blue)

5-16 = ¼ of measurement 1-5; square up to locate 17 on hipline and 18 on the waistline.

16-19 = half the distance 16-18.

18-20 = ¾” [20mm].

20-21 = ¾” [20mm].

21-22 = ¼ of waist + 2 ⅜” [60mm]; join 21-22 to touch the horizontal line from 0.

9-23 = half the distance 5-9.

23-24 = ⅛” [3mm].

Join 21-19 with a straight line; join 19-24 with a deep curve missing 16 by approx. 1 ¾” [45mm].

17-25 = ¼ of hip + ¾” [20mm].

12-26 = ⅜” [10mm].

13-27 = ⅜” [10mm].

Draw in side seam; 22-25 curves outward slightly; 25-27 curve inwards slightly and join 27-26 with a straight line.

14-28 = ⅜” [10mm].

15-29 = ⅜” [10mm].

Draw inside leg seam; join 28-29 with a straight line; join 29-24 with a curve inwards by ⅜” [10mm].

Design Note: PUT EXTRA EASE IN THE SEAT ANGLE (CB seam)

Most easy fitting trousers require extra ease in the back crotch line, especially pleated pants. Trace off back section of trouser template and add more ease. Begin by, cutting along the hipline and spread open a wedge as desired, approximately 1 ½” [40mm] wide at the back CB line. (The more rounded the behind, the greater the seat angle.) Re-draw the back seam curve as shown.

easy fitting pant adaptation

Style Adaptation

Pleated “zoot” trousers are full at the waistline and shaped in at the hem.

Trace round basic easy-fit trouser template onto additional paper.

Back Section *

Add additional ease in CB seam if necessary (see above).

Mark points (a) and (b) on hemline ¾” [20 mm] inward from leg seam.

Draw straight line from (a) to kneeline.

Draw in a bowed outseam (curve) from hipline tapering to (b).

Shape the bottom hemline with a slight curve outward ⅜” [10mm]. ***

Divide line 21-22 into 3 equal parts. At each point, draw in a waist suppression dart.      (2 in total).

Dart = 1 ⅛” wide x 4” long [30mm x 100mm].

Front Section *

Trace round front trouser template onto additional paper.

Cut across kneeline; then cut top section dividing along the crease (grainline). Spread open at waistline for desired amount of pleating and extend waistline at side seam to blend smoothly with outseam of leg.  (For instance, open 2” [50mm] at waist and extend 1 ⅜” [35mm] at side seam. With dart allowance this gives 4 ⅛” [10.5 cm] fullness).

Divide fullness into 3 equal pleats.

Design Note: More fullness can be added at the waistline by opening the grainline further at the waist and making deeper pleats.

Mark points (c) and (d) on hemline ¾” [20 mm] inward from leg seam.

Draw straight line from (d) to kneeline.

Draw in a bowed outseam (curve) from hipline tapering to (c).

Shape the bottom hemline with a straight line. ***

Grainline is parallel to creaseline.

For fly & fly facing *, trace off CF seam and waistline from 10.

Draw a parallel line 2” [50mm] from CF line and taper 1” [25cm] below zipper notch.

Grainline is parallel to CF line.

For waistband *, draw a long rectangle equal to the waist measurement X desired width.

Add a 2” [50mm] extension to one short end of pattern.

pocketMirror the final dimensions of the waistband along the foldline.

Grainline is parallel to foldline.

For sideseam pockets, make a pocket bag pattern *.

A-B = 9” [23 cm]; square across from A and B.

A-C = 6” [15 cm]; square down to locate D.

A-E =  6” [15 cm]; square across.

B-F = 1” [2.5 cm]; square up to G.

Draw in an arc with a compass from H to I as shown.

Fold paper on line C-D and trace off C-A-E-G-H-I-D as mirrored image. Open flat for bag pattern piece.

Grainline is parallel to foldline.

lay* Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

*** Add 1 ¼” [30mm] hem allowances to trouser bottoms.

CUTTING

Front Leg – cut 2X self

Back Leg – cut 2X self

Waistband – cut 1X self

Waistband Interfacing – cut 1X fusible

Fly – cut 3X self

Pocket Bag – cut 2X pocketing

ASSEMBLY

1. Fold pocket bag piece in half crossways and stitch a French seam along curved edge of bag. Set aside.

 

2. Iron fusible interfacing to back (wrong side) of waistband, following manufacturer’s directions. Set aside.

 

3. Fold pleats along waistline of front trousers and baste down. Set aside.

 

4. Sew waist darts on back trouser. Set aside.

 

5. Finish seams on all cut pieces with pinking shears or overlock machine.

6. With right sides together (RST), align and match side seam of front and back trouser legs. Leaving a 6” opening from top edge of cut pieces for pockets, sew up the side seam and press open.

Attach a pocket bag to each seam allowance at the opening and stitch in place. Set aside.

 

7. flyWith RST, sew curved edge of fly facing. Grade seam allowance and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Press seam and topstitch. With the fly facing FACE UP and the curved edge to your left, stitch the zipper FACE UP to the straight edge of the fly facing (fig.1). Set aside.

 

8. With RST, sew fly to right front leg. Grade seam allowance and press seam to one side. Under-stitch fly.

 

9. With RST, align and match front pieces along CF line and crotch. Stitch from bottom of fly to within 2” of the inseam.

10. With the fronts FACE UP, sew the fly facing FACE DOWN to the left front leg. This will encase the zipper into the CF seam. Flip the zipper FACE UP and edge-stitch along the zipper teeth (fig. 2).

 

11. Lay the front of the trousers FACE UP. Align the CF line and smooth out the fly opening. Baste the fly opening shut. Once completed, fold the fronts in half with the left front leg on top. Pin back the fly facing to reveal the zipper FACE DOWN on the fly. Stitch the zipper tape to the fly. (fig. 3) Baste curved edge of fly to left front.

 

12. With garment FACE UP, sew a J-stitch to secure the fly. Begin with a bar-tack at the bottom of the fly opening and topstitch the J-stitch following the basting thread markings up to the top.

 

13. With RST, align and match back and front at the inseam. Baste/pin raw edges together along the inseam of each leg. Sew inseams and press seam open.

 

14. crotch1Pull one leg RIGHT SIDE OUT and drop down into other leg. Align and match up inner leg seam and CB crotch seam. Baste/pin crotch seam. Sew seam from bottom of fly to top edge of back section (in a U-shape). Turn garment RIGHT SIDE OUT and set aside.

 

15. Turn under seam allowance on one long edge of waistband and press flat. Fold waistband in half, with RST and stitch up short ends, allowing for seam allowance. Trim corners and grade. Turn waistband RIGHT SIDE OUT.

 

16. Pin raw edge of waistband FACE UP to inside edge of trousers waistline, allowing for 2” [50mm] extension on left-hand side of waistband. Ease in waistline onto waistband. Baste across top of pocket bag and pleats. Stitch waistband to waistline, ensuring to catch top of front pocket and pleats in the seaming. Grade seam allowance and turn up into waistband. Align and match folded edge of waistband to machine-stitching on FACE SIDE of garment. Edge-stitch the waistband to the garment.

 

17. On each cuff bottom, turn up 1 ¼” [30mm] hem. Turn under ¼” [6mm] and hand-stitch hem in place.

 

18. Hand-stitch set of hooks and bars onto the waistband, just above the zipper.

 

Design Tip: Design the waistband width ½” [12 mm] greater than the width of your favourite belt and add belt loops.

lacy-camisole-ella mossFeatured: Ella Moss Camisole

Lacy lingerie-inspired camisoles are the hottest tops for summer. Treat yourself to a fluid bias-cut top, similar to this one by L.A.’s Pamella Protzel for Ella Moss. The “bias-cut” technique is used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the bias or diagonal direction of the fabric, causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly, thereby eliminating the need for darts.

You will need:

  • Approx. 1 ½ yds. [1.4 m] of fashion fabric, 45” [114cm] wide.
  • ½ yd. [0.5 m] of insertion lace, 1” – 2″[25-50 mm] wide.
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure around fullest part of chest just under the arms.

Armhole Depth – measure vertically from top of shoulder to armpit level.

Neck – measure around base of neck.

Back width – measure across shoulder blades from armpit to armpit.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waist line.

PATTERN

bias2

Fold paper in half lengthwise. Plot X at the top of the foldline.

Along the foldline, square across from X at a 90° angle.

X-A = back waist length + ⅜” [10mm]; square across.

A-B = 6” [15.2 cm]; square across.

X-C = armhole depth + ⅝” [15mm]; square across.

X-D = half the measurement X-C; square across.

X-E = one fifth the measurement X-D; square across.

X-F = one sixth the neck size; square up.

F-G = ¾” [20mm].

C-H = half of the back width – ⅝” [15mm]; square up to locate I and J at the intersection of lines.

Join G to J with a straight line.

C-K = quarter of the bust measurement – ⅝” [15mm]; square down to locate M on waist line and L on high-hip line.

Draw an armhole curve from I to K as shown.

M-N = 1 ⅝” [45mm]; shape sideseam with a smooth curve between K and L.

Shape the hemline at a 90° angle from L, missing B by ⅜” [10mm].

Draw a square box with 2 sides located at A. Draw a grainline through opposite corners of the box.

For shoulder strap, measure distance from J-I-K. Double the amount and plot it on a straight line.

K-O = 1 ⅝” [40mm]; join O-O and K-O with a straight line.

Draw a grainline at 45° to K-O.

Add seam allowance to body pieces except for armhole & shoulder straps.

 

Cutting Tip: Widen seam allowances for bias-cut. Although bias cuts don’t fray, the fibers on cut edges relax and open up, so even half-inch away from a cut edge isn’t an accurate stitching line. To your pattern pieces, add 1-1/2-inch-wide seam allowances. Use 1/2-inch seam allowances at the neckline for the lace trim. Always mark stitching lines with thread as soon as the fabric is cut, before removing the pattern pieces. Once sewing and pressing are done, seams can be trimmed.

layCUTTING

Front – cut 1X self

Back – cut 1X self

Shoulder strap – cut 2X self (make longer than needed for shaping)

Trim – Cut length of lace to match width at top of the garment.

Fitting Tip: Pin/baste the fabric pieces together and try it on before you sew the garment. This is called trial fitting, and it allows you the chance to define the fit of the bias cut with better accuracy and mark the stitching lines. If you’re sewing a garment for someone else, have them try on the fitting. Allow enough “ease” to slip over the head.

ASSEMBLY

  1. Sew a narrow double-rolled hem across the top edge of the back piece turning it to the inside.
  2. Fold the top edge of the front piece to the outside and stitch along folded edge. Trim seam allowance close to stitching. Lay insertion lace on top of finished edge and edge-stitch across the bottom of the trim.
  3. bindingWith right sides together, align and match front to back at side seams. Stitch 1” [25mm] from top edge on stitching line. Stay-stitch the armholes.
  4. For shoulder straps, fold the strap pieces in half along its length with wrong sides together to create a bias binding; press lightly. Turn in cut edges of binding to crease of foldine; press. Re-fold center crease and press.
  5. strapPre-shape the bias binding to match armhole edge of garment by stretching the two folded edges to match the shape of the inward curve of the armhole.
  6. Pin/baste binding to armhole, beginning at side seam, and extend the binding as a loop for the shoulder strapping as need. Continue by joining ends on straight grain; turn in one and lap over the other to complete. Stitch the open edge of the binding to the armhole and continue stitching to make the shoulder strap.
  7. Baste your bias-cut garment together along the side seams and drape onto a dressform or let it hang for a day or 2 before you use your sewing machine to complete the seams. This will help to smooth your seams out and encourages the fabric to stretch naturally. Thread-mark the stitching line again if necessary.
  8. Stitch the side seams following the basted stitching line. When stitching seams on your bias-cut garment, be sure to go slowly and allow the fabric to take its natural shape, rather than pulling it taut as you pull it through the sewing machine. It is best to stitch the seams in short bursts, allowing the fabric to relax and take its natural shape each time before continuing. Likewise, once the seams are stitched, allow the garment to hang for a while before you hem the bottom. This will allow the garment to develop a natural fall and ensure that the hems are straight and smooth. When ironing the hem, do not move the iron side to side along the hem as you would with a normal cut garment; instead, move the iron along the line of the bias.
  9. Trim excess away in seam allowance. (I prefer to pink the seam allowance rather than overlock the raw edge.)
  10. Make a narrow rolled edge on the hemline.

Bias-cut garments don’t wrinkle as easily as straight-grain garments do, but they can “grow” on a hanger, so always store them folded and flat.

full_jackets_sanmar_03Featured: Club Jacket by Sanmar

In the fashion world, colour-blocking is in. You might fret that you look ridiculous wearing a burnt-orange shirt and navy-blue pants, but you will find that designers are actually creating single-piece garments in literal blocks of stark colour contrasts. For the daring fashionista, choosing contrasting colours from opposite ends of the colour wheel can result in surprisingly appealing combinations.  Here are the rules to the art of colour-blocking:color-wheel-300

  • Three is the magic number
  • Keep colours in the same family
  • Be loud and proud
  • Keep it simple

Discover analogous, triadic, and split-complementary colour combinations.

You will need:

  • Up to 1 ½ yds. [1.4 m] of fashion fabric, colour A*, 45” [114 cm] wide.
  • Up to 1 ½ yds. [1.4 m] of fashion fabric, colour B*, 45” [114 cm] wide.
  • Up to  2  ½ yds. [ 2.3 m] of lining fabric, 45” [114 cm] wide
  • Approx. 2 yds. [1.8 m] of elastic, 1” [25mm] wide
  • ½ yd. [0.5 m] of fusible interfacing, 24” [61 cm] wide
  • 1 separating zipper **
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

* see Cutting Instructions to determine the yardage required as it is dependent upon the colour-block styling. Feel free to use a third colour in your combination; the featured model uses two colours.

 

** zipper length = distance from top of collar to garment hem minus 1” [25mm].

Design Tip: Match colour of zipper to lightest fabric colour used in colour blocking

MEASUREMENTS

Chest – measure around the upper torso just below the arms

Waist – measure around the narrowest part of torso, just above the navel.

Seat – measure around fullest part of hip, about 9”[23 cm} below waist.

Back width – measure across the shoulder blades from armpit to armpit.

Shoulder – measure from neck to ball socket of shoulder.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to natural waistline.

Armsyce depth – measure vertically from top of shoulder to nipple.

Neck – measure around base of neck.

Arm length – measure from end of shoulder to wrist.

Finished Length – measure vertically from nape of  neck to desired length.

 

PATTERN

Easy fitting coats, jackets and smock shapes can be drafted from a simple grid which maps the basic control points of the body shape. The grid lines can be used for reference. Simple dramatic shapes can be achieved from this type of draft, like the club jacket from Sanmar. The grid is constructed to basic body measurements; substantial ease must be added for movement and styling. Once it is completed, the draft is aligned at the shoulder-sleeve seam and stylelines are drawn in and cut apart for colour-blocking. As the designer, you may create any shape of style lines desired and they may flow seamlessly from front to back. (Try to avoid any sharp angles and corners for ease of assembly.)

jacket draft

Body Grid

Draw 2 lines from A at a 90° angle.

A-B = ¾” [20mm]

A-C = 1/5 of neck measurement minus ⅛” [2 mm].

B-D = armsyce depth; square across.

D-E = 1” [25mm]; square across to mark chestline.

B-F = back waist length; square across.

F-G = 9” [23 cm]

A-H = 1/5 of neck measurement; draw in back neck curve from B to H, as shown.

Draw in front neck curve from C to H, as shown.

G-I = ¼ of chest measurement; square up to the armhole.

Draw a tangent line from H at a 17°angle from the line at point A.

H-J = shoulder measurement.

Style Adaptation

Mark point K on the centerline at the desired finished length + 1” [25mm] turn; square across.

K-L = ¼ of the seat measurement + ⅓ the distance of G-I for ease

Draw a construction line from H through the armhole (intersection of D and I) as shown.

Square up from L to locate M at the intersection of the lines.

Locate N at the waistline.

Extend the shoulder line from J; J-O = arm length + 1” [25mm] turn.

O-P squared from O = 12” [30.5 cm]; join P-M.

M-Q is the measurement M-N.

Draw a smooth underarm curve from N to Q; R is located at the intersection of lines, as shown.

Collar Section

Measure front and back necklines from draft. Compare amount with actual neck measurement. If necessary, increase neckline on draft so total is at least 1” greater than actual body measurement. (This amount may be greater than 1 inch if desired)

On a straight line, V-W = ½ of the back neck measurement.

W-X = ½ of the front neck measurement; square up.

X-Y = ⅜” [10mm].

X-Z = 4” [10 cm].

V-AA = 4” [10 cm]. (CB line)

Join Z and AA.

Fold on CB line and trace out mirror image of collar.

Add seam allowance.

Colour Blocking

S is midway between J and O.

Lay a set square on the sleeve line at S and draw a line at a 90°angle to touch on the line from E. Label this point, T.

S-U = distance of S-T.

Square a line from U to the underarm line.

contrast

For the back yoke, trace out B-H-J-T-E-B.*

For the front yoke, trace out C-H-J-T-E-C.*

For the sleeve bottom, trace out U-O-P-U.*

* Add seam allowance and label CONTRAST.

self pcs

For the upper sleeve, trace out T-S-U-Q-R-M-T.**

For the front and back body, trace out E-M-R-N-L-K-G-F-E.**

** Add seam allowance and label, SELF.

Lining

For front lining, trace out C-H-M-R-N-L-K-G-F-E-D-C.***

For the back lining, trace out B-H-M-R-N-L-K-G-F-E-D-B. ***

For the sleeve lining, place sleeve line (H to O) on foldline of paper and trace O-P-Q-R-M-H. *** jacket lay

*** Add seam allowance and label, LINING.

CUTTING

Fabric A (self)

Front Body – cut 2X self

Back body – cut 1X self on fold

Upper Sleeve – cut 4X self (reverse)

A 2” wide strip equal to length of collar.

Fabric B (contrast)

Front yoke – cut 2X contrast

Back Yoke – cut 1X on fold contrast

Sleeve bottom – cut 4X contrast (reverse)

Collar – cut 2X on fold contrast

Lining

Front – cut 2X lining

Back – cut 1X on fold lining

Sleeve – cut 2X lining

Interfacing

Collar – cut 2x fusible

Design Tip: Select 2 to 3 colours from the same kind of fabric for colour-blocking. If you are creating a bold outer-shell, keep the lining subdued; or if the shell is somber in colour, choose a bright lining.

ASSEMBLY

1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of collar pieces following manufacturer’s directions.

For outer collar, stitch contrast strip 1” [25mm] from edge across top of collar with right sides facing together (RST). Flip trim FACE UP and trim any excess fabric if necessary.

 

2. For lining, sew sleeves to each side of back with RST.

Sew one front to each sleeve with RST.

With RST, attach untrimmed collar piece to neckline of lining.

Fold sleeves in half with RST and align and match underarm and side seams of body. Pin/baste and sew seams. Press seams open. Set aside.

 

3. For shell, sew sleeve bottoms to upper sleeves with RST for the front and back sections.

Sew sleeve halves to body with RST for the back and front sections.

Sew back yoke to back body section with RST, pivoting at the armhole seam.

Sew one front yoke to each front body section with RST, pivoting at the armhole seam.

With RST, align and match fronts to back at all seams on sleeve line. Pin/baste and sew shoulder and sleeve seam.

With RST, attach trimmed collar piece to neckline of shell.

 

4. Insert separating zipper to front edge from top of collar to within 1” [25mm] of hemline.

Fold sleeves in half with RST and align and match underarm and side seams of shell.

Pin/baste and sew seams. Press seams open.

 

5. To insert lining, place sleeves of shell into sleeves of lining with RST. Align and match outer edges of the garment. Pin/baste together. Stitch along the zippered edges and across top of collar. Trim corners of collar to reduce bulk. Turn garment RIGHT SIDE OUT. From between the shell and lining, attach the seam allowances of the collar and neckline together. (This can be machined or basted by hand.)

With garment FACE UP, topstitch along zipper edge and collar.

 

6. At the wrists and the hemline, turn in 1 ¼ ” [30mm] on the shell portion only and press. Align the edge of the lining along the creaseline. (This will allow for a bit of slack in the lining.) Turn under ¼” [6mm] on the shell fabric and stitch a 1” [25mm] casing for the elastic. Leave a small opening to thread the elastic through each casing.

 

elastic

 

7. To complete the jacket, draw elastic through casing at wrists and zigzag ends together. Stretch out elasticized cuff to distribute the elastic evenly and stitch up opening. “Stitch in the ditch” through the sleeve seams to prevent elastic from twisting in casing.

 

8. Draw elastic through casing at hemline. Tack each end of elastic at the end of the casing at the CF. Stretch out elasticized hem to distribute the elastic evenly and sew through the sideseams using the “stitch-in-the-ditch” method to prevent the elastic from twisting.

Salvatore Ferragamo cuffed shortsFeatured: Salvatore Ferragamo

All the spring/summer collections had them on the runway: Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Jacobs, Victoria’s Secret, Diane Von Furstenberg, Chloe, Salvatore Ferragamo, D & G. All showed cuffed shorts in a variety of colours and patterns, lengths, and silhouettes. Design a pair for yourself with this easy pattern-draft.

You with need:

  • 1 pant zipper, 6” [15 cm] long
  • 2 sets of pant hook & bar, ¾” [20mm] dia.
  • approx. 1 ½ yds. [1.4 m] of bottom-weight fashion fabric, 45”[114 cm] wide *
  • ½ yd. [0.5 m] of pocketing fabric, 45”[114 cm] wide
  • ¼ yd. [0.3 m] of fusible interfacing, 45” [114 cm] wide
  • coordinating thread
  • kraft paper

* yardage required is dependent upon finished length.

MEASUREMENTS

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso, just above the navel.

Hip – measure around fullest part of seat, about 8” [20 cm] below waistline.

Rise – measure vertically from waistline to top of chair while seated

Outseam – measure vertically from waist to finished hemline.

For example, on the featured model by Salvatore Ferragamo, the rise = 10″ and the outseam = 14″.

PATTERN

shorts draft

Draw a straight line across top of kraft paper. Label point 1 as shown.

2 from 1 = outseam + 7” [180 mm] less waistband (- 3″/75 mm).

3 from 1 = rise measurement minus 3” [75 mm].

4 from 1 = 5” [127 mm].

Square out across paper from all points.

5 from 4 = quarter of the hip measurement + 1″ [25 mm].

6 from 4 = quarter of the hip measurement + 1″ 25 mm].

Square up from 5 and 6 to locate 7 and 8 at the intersection of lines.

9 from 5 = 3 ½” [90 mm].

10 from 6 =  5” [125 mm].

Square down from 9 to locate 11 and 12 at the intersection of lines.

Draw a deep curve connecting 5 to 12, as shown.

Square down from 10 to locate 13 and 14 at the intersection of lines.

15 from 14 = ¾” [20 mm].

Draw a gentle curve from 6 to 15, as shown.

Divide the distance between 1 and 8 into 3 equal parts. Label points 16 and 17.

Draw waist darts at 16 and 17; make each dart = 1” wide X 4” long [25 mm X 11 mm].

18 from 1 = 2 ⅜” [60 mm].

19 from 8 = 2 ⅜” [60 mm].

Square down from 18 and square across from 19 to locate 20.

21 from 19 = 5” [127 mm].

22 from 20 = 5” [127 mm].

Square down from 20 and 22 to locate 23 at the intersection.

Draw a patch pocket and curve the bottom corners (23).

24 from 1 = 2″ [50mm].

25 from 24 = 1” [25 mm].

26 from 25 = 2 ⅜” [60mm].

27 from 1 = 5 ½” [140  mm].

28 from 27 = 1” [25 mm].

Draw a straight line parallel to line 24-27 from 25 to 28.

Square down from 26 to locate 29 just above the crotchline (3).

30 from 7 = 2” [50 mm].

X is located 4” [100 mm] from 11 and 13.

The grainline is parallel to line 1-2.

Waistband

Draw a straight line.

32 from 31 = waist measurement.

33 from 32 = 6” [152 mm].

Squaring 34 from 31 = 6” [152 mm].

35 from 34 = 2” [50 mm].

36 from 31 = 2” [50 mm].

37 = ½ of line 35-36.

38 = ½ of line 32-33.

Join 37 and 38 with a straight line (foldline).

Grainline can be width or length-wise in direction.

Pocket Bag

Trace off from front leg points 1-27-28-3-29-26-25-24-1 onto additional paper.

Trace off from front leg points  24-27-28-3-29-25-24 onto additional paper.

Flip one of the tracings and glue to the other along line 26-29.

Grainline is parallel to line 26-29 (foldline).

Pocket Facing

Trace off from front leg points 1-27-28-25-24-1.

Grainline is parallel to line 1-28.

Patch Pocket

Trace off pocket from back leg.

Add a 1” [25 mm] turning above line 20-22 for opening.

Grainline is parallel to line 22-23.

Fly & Fly Facing

Trace off CF seam of front leg points 5-7-30.

Draw a parallel line 2” [50 mm] to the CF line from point 30.

Shape the bottom to taper the facing, as shown.

Grainline is parallel to CF line (5-7).

* Add seam allowance to all pattern pieces.

CUTTING

layFront – cut 2X self

Back – cut 2X self

Patch Pocket – cut 2X self

Waistband – cut 1X self

Pocket Facing – cut 2X self

Pocket Bag – cut 2X pocketing

Fly & Fly Facing – cut 3X self

Waistband Interfacing – cut 1X fusible

ASSEMBLY

1. Iron fusible interfacing onto back (wrong side) of waistband piece following manufacturer’s directions. Fuse a narrow strip (1”) of interfacing across top of each patch pocket. Set aside.

 

pocket facing2. Finish seams on all cut pieces with pinking shears or overlock machine.

 

3. Lay the pocket bag piece FACE DOWN and place the pocket facing FACE UP in the upper square corner. Sew the pocket facing in place with a narrow zig-zag stitch. Repeat for opposite pocket.

 

4. Align and match slanted edge of pocket bag to front leg of shorts with RIGHT SIDES facing together. Sew slanted edge. Clip along seam allowance and turn pocketing to WRONG SIDE. Press seam and topstitch. Repeat for opposite front leg.

 

zipper5. Stitch a French seam along bottom edge of pocket bag. Begin by folding bottom of pocket bag in half with WRONG SIDES facing together. Stitch half the width of the seam allowance. Trim seam allowance close to stitching line. Turn bag RIGHT SIDE OUT and press seam. Stitch remainder of seam allowance. Baste side of pocket bag to side seam of shorts. Repeat on other pocket bag.

 

6. With RST, sew curved edge of fly facing. Grade seam allowance and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Press seam and topstitch. With the fly facing FACE UP and the curved edge to your left, stitch the zipper FACE UP to the straight edge of the fly facing. Set aside.

 

zipper27. With RST, sew fly to right front leg. Grade seam allowance and press seam to one side. Under-stitch fly.

8. With RST, align and match front pieces along CF line and crotch. Stitch from bottom of fly to within 2” of the inseam.

9. With the fronts FACE UP, sew the fly facing FACE DOWN to the left front leg. (A) This will encase the zipper into the CF seam. Flip the zipper FACE UP and edge-stitch along the zipper teeth.

 

10. Lay the front of the shorts FACE UP. Align the CF line and smooth out the fly opening. Baste the fly opening shut. Once completed, fold the fronts in half with the left front leg on top. Pin back the fly facing to reveal the zipper FACE DOWN on the fly. Stitch the zipper tape to the fly. (B) Baste curved edge of fly to left front. Set aside.

 

11. On back section, sew up waist shaping darts.

12. Turn under 1” [25mm] of top edge of patch pockets and stitch down in place. Turn under and press seam allowance on perimeter of pockets.

13. Place patch pockets FACE UP on center of back pieces and align over darting 2” [50mm] from the top edge. Topstitch in place.

 

14. With RST, align and match back and front at the side seams. Baste/pin raw edges together along the outseam. Sew sides, ensuring to catch pocket bag in the seaming. Grade seam allowance and press seam towards the back section. With garment FACE UP, edge-stitch along the sideseam on the back section.

 

15. With RST, align and match back and front at the inseam. Baste/pin raw edges together along the inseam of each leg. Sew inseams and press seam open.

 

crotch16. Pull one leg RIGHT SIDE OUT and drop down into other leg. Align and match up inner leg seam and CB seam. Baste/pin crotch seam. Sew seam from bottom of fly to top edge of back section (in a U-shape). Turn garment RIGHT SIDE OUT and set aside.

 

17. Turn under seam allowance on one long edge of waistband and press flat. Fold waistband in half , with RST and stitch up short ends, allowing for seam allowance. Trim corners and grade. Turn waistband RIGHT SIDE OUT.

 

pleat18. Pin raw edge of  waistband FACE UP to inside edge of garment’s waistline, allowing for 2” [50mm] extension on left-hand side of waistband. Ease in waistline onto waistband. Fold a decorative pleat on front legs approximately 2” [50mm] from pocket opening to take up excess fabric in the shorts. (For an easier fit, allow 1 – 2 inches of ease in total on the body of the shorts.) Baste across top of pocket bag and pleat. Stitch waistband to waistline, ensuring to catch top of front pocket in the seaming. Grade seam allowance and turn up into waistband. Align and match folded edge of waistband to machine-stitching on FACE SIDE of garment. Edge-stitch the waistband to the garment.

 

pleat219. With garment FACE UP, sew a J-stitch to secure the fly. Begin with a bar-tack at the bottom of the fly opening and topstitch the J-stitch following the basting thread markings up to the top, stitching through the waistband.

 

20. On each cuff bottom, turn up a 4” [100 mm] hem. Stitch down in place.

21. Fold up 3” [75mm] to create a cuff. Align the cuff at the inseam and outseam; and secure the cuff by the “stitch-in-the-ditch” method.

 

22. Hand-stitch sets of hooks and bars onto the waistband, in tandem just above the zipper.

Design Tip: Add belt loops to waistband to allow for your favourite belt.

Dry Max Hooded VestFeatured: Dry Max Hooded Vest

Chill in a unisex hoodie vest.

You will need:

  • Sweat suit fleece *
  • Rib binding *
  • 1 separating zipper (equal to CF less 1” [25mm])
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

* yardage will depend upon finished length.

The featured hoodie vest from Australian label  Black and Blue is 28” long [71 cm].

MEASUREMENTS

Bust/Chest – measure around fullest part of upper torso,  just under the arms.

Hip/Seat – measure around the fullest part of seat, 9” [23 cm] below waistline.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waistline.

Shoulder – measure from side of neck to socket joint of arm.

Finished Length – measure vertically from nape of neck to desired length.

PATTERN

hoodie draft

BACK SECTION

Square 2 lines from A at 90°.

A-B = 1” [25mm]

B-C = finished length + 1” [25mm]

B-D = ½  back waist length

Square across all points.

D-E = ½ bust or hip (whichever is greater) + 1” [25mm]

Square up and down from E to locate F and G.

D-H = 1/4 bust or hip (whichever is greater)

Square down from H to locate I.

B-J = 3 ⅜” [85 mm]

J-K = 1” [25mm]

Connect B to K with a shallow curve as shown.

K-L = shoulder length

L-M = 1 ⅜” [35mm]

Draw a construction line from M to H and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label points N and O.

Draw the back armhole with a smooth curve from M to H, passing through points 1 ⅜” [35mm] from N and 1 ½” [37mm] from O.

FRONT SECTION

F-P = 3 ½” [90mm]

F-Q = 3 ¼” [82mm]

Draw a construction line from P to Q and divide it into 2 equal parts. Label point R.

Draw the front neckline from P to Q passing through a point ¾” [20mm] from R.

Q-S = shoulder length

S-T = 1 ⅜” [35mm]

Draw a construction line from H to T and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label points U and V.

Draw the front armhole with a smooth curve from H to T, passing through points 2” [50mm] from U and 2 ¼” [57mm] from V.

G-W = ¾” [20mm]

Join I to W with a smooth curve. The corner at W is a 90°angle.

For the front facing, draw a line 3” [75mm] parallel to centerfront tapering to 1 ½” [37mm] at the shoulder-neck. Trace off the facing onto additional paper.

For the pocket, W-X = 10” [25.5 cm]

W-Y = 10” [25.5 cm]

Square up from Y; Y-Z = 5” [12.7 cm]

Draw a line from Z to intersection on facing point.

Trace off the pocket onto additional paper.

HOOD SECTION

Square 2 line from 1 at 90°.

1-2 = 13’ [33 cm]

1-3 = 10” [25.5 cm]

Square across from 2 and square up from 3 to locate 4 at the intersection.

3-5 = 3” [76 cm]

3-6 = front neckline mmt. + back neckline mmt. from body draft.

Draw a construction line from 5 to 6 and divide it into 2 equal parts. Label point 7.

Draw the neckline with a smooth curve between 5 and 6, passing through a point ½” [12mm] from point 7.

1-8 = 7 ¾” [19.8 cm]

2-9 = 6 ¼” [16 cm]

Join 8 to 9 with a curved line passing through a point 2 ¼” [57mm] from point 2.

For hood facing, 4-10 = 2” [5 cm]

5-11 = 2” [5 cm]

Join 10 to 11 and trace off neckline between 5 to 11.

Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces except hemline.

Grainlines are parallel to CF and CB.

hoodie layCUTTING

Back – cut 1X self on fold

Front – cut 2X self

Front Facing – cut 2X self

Hood – cut 2X self

Pocket – cut 2X self

Cut rib binding to fit.

Design Tip: Use a contrast colour for the hood and rib binding

ASSEMBLY

  1. Trim pocket opening with ribbed binding.
  2. With pockets up-side down and FACE DOWN on CF, stitch top of pocket to fronts.
  3. Flip pockets FACE UP and align with bottom edge of fronts. From the inside of the pocket, stitch short side from pocket opening to hem to the fronts. Baste the rest of the pocket to the fronts.
  4. With fronts FACE UP, stitch zipper (separated) face down to CF and 1” [25mm] from bottom edge.
  5. Align and match front facing to zippered edge with right sides facing together. Stitch facing to CF and 1” [25mm] from bottom edge. Trim bulk from bottom of facing at the hem and turn right side out.
  6. Attach fronts to back at shoulders. Stitch shoulder seam and press open.
  7. BINDINGTrim armholes with ribbed binding.
  8. With right sides together (RST), match side seams and sew fronts to back. Press seam towards back. Trim seam allowance or overlock and topstitch on FACE SIDE along the seam on back section.
  9. Turn up hem 1” [25mm] and press. Open fold and re-fold raw edge to crease line. Fold up remainder of hem. Stitch down.
  10. On FACE SIDE, topstitch hem edge including the front facing.
  11. Align and match neck of front facing to neck of fronts. Secure front facing at the shoulder seam.
  12. With fronts FACE UP, topstitch CF along zipper.
  13. With RST, align and match top and CB of hood. Stitch center seam. Press to one side. Trim seam allowance or overlock and topstitch on FACE SIDE along hood’s center seam.
  14. Neaten facing edge of hood with a seam finish or overlock.
  15. With RST, align and pin/baste neckline of hood to body’s neckline. Wrap hood facing around the CF edge and back along neckline. Stitch hood to neckline. Trim and grade seam allowance.
  16. Flip hood facing FACE UP and turn facing to inside the hood. Edge-stitch open edge of hood facing to the hood.
  17. On FACE SIDE, topstitch along neckline seam.

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