Featured: Wrap Top by NY&Company
This wrap top draft by NY&Company is a flattering style for all shapes and sizes. A deep V-neck combined with a fluid fabric is forgiving to all body types.
You will need:
- approx. 2 ¼ yds. [2m] of fashion fabric, 45” [115 cm] wide
- approx. ½ yd. [0.5 m] fusible interfacing
- coordinating thread
- kraft paper
Bust – measure around fullest part of chest, just below the arms.
Waist – measure narrowest part of torso, just above navel.
Shoulder – measure from neck to ball joint of arm.
Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waist.
Sleeve length – measure vertically from shoulder point to wrist.
Bicep – measure the fullest part of the upper arm.
PATTERN BACK SECTION
Square 2 lines from A at a 90° angle on the paper.
A-B = 1” [2.5cm]
B-C = back waist length
D = ½ of B-C
C-E = 6” [15.25 cm] Square all points across paper.
D-F = ¼ of bust + ¼” [0.6 cm]
Square down from F to locate G.
H is located on line square from C; H is ⅜” [1 cm] from line F-G.
Shape side seam from F to G, passing through point H as shown.
I is located midway C and H.
Square up and down from I to locate J and K.
I-J = 6” [15.25 cm] Draw a waist suppression dart from J to K; dart width at I = 1 ½” [3.75 cm] dart width at K = ½” [1.25 cm]
A-L = 3” [7.6 cm]
L-M = shoulder length
M-N = 1 ¼” [3.2 cm]
Join L to N.
Draw a construction line from N to F and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label points O and P.
Shape the back armhole from N to F, passing through points 1” [2.5 cm] from O and 1 ½” [3.75 cm] from P as shown.
Grainline is parallel to CB.
Square 2 lines from (a) at a 90° angle on the paper.
a-b = A-E
a-c = A-D
Square all points across paper.
a-d = 9 ½” [24 cm]
Square down from (d) to locate (e) and (f).
c-g = ¼ of bust + 7” [17.75 cm]
d-h = shoulder length
h-i = 1 ⅜” [3.5 cm]
Join (d) to (i).
Draw a construction line from (i) to (g) and divide it into 3 equal parts. Ladel (j) and (k).
Shape the front armhole from (i) to (g) passing through points 1 ⅜” [3.5 cm] from (j) and 2” [5 cm] from (k) as shown.
f-l = 2 ¼” [5.7 cm]
i-m = 5 ¾” [14.7 cm]
m-n = 1” [2.5 cm]
Join (n) to (l).
Square down from (g).
g-o = C-D Join (n) to (o).
e-p = 1 ¼” [3.25 cm]
Square down from (p).
p-q = 2” [5 cm].
Join (l) and (q).
Square a line from (o) across to locate (r) at intersection.
Draw a waist suppression dart from (l) to (q); dart width at (r) = 1 ¾” [4.5 cm] and dart width at (l) = 2 ⅜” [6 cm] as shown.
c-s = 5 ¼” [13.2 cm] c-t = c-s Join (s) to (t).
Draw a construction line from (d) to (s) and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label the top third, (u).
Shape a smooth curve from (d) to (s) passing through a point 1 ⅜” [3.5 cm] from (u).
b-v = 1” [2.5 cm].
Shape a smooth curve from (f) to (v).
Grainline is parallel to line d-f.
aa-bb = 1/2 of sleeve length – 2” [5 cm].
aa-cc = 5 ½” [14 cm]
cc-dd = ½ bicep + ⅜” [1 cm}
cc-ee = ½ bicep + ¾” [2 cm]
Draw a construction line from aa to dd and ee and divide each line into 3 equal parts. Label ff, gg, hh, and ii.
Shape the front sleeve cap with a smooth curve from aa to gg and continue to dd passing through a point ½” [1.25 cm] from ff, as shown.
Shape the back sleeve cap with a smooth curve from aa passing through at point ⅝” [1.6 cm] from hh to ii and continue with a shallow curve to ee, as shown.
bb-jj = ½ bicep
bb-kk = ½ bicep
Join dd to kk and ee to jj.
Draw a 1” [2.5 cm] turn up parallel to jj-kk.
Grainline is parallel to aa-bb.
Fold paper in half and place CB of back section on foldline.
Trace off back neckline and shoulder on to paper. Align front and back shoulders at L and trace off front neckline.
Square up from L. L-1 = A-L
Square across from 1 to locate 2.
2-3 = 3” [7.6 cm]
Draw 3-4-5 parallel to the neckline.
Grainline is parallel to centerback, B-5.
1-2 = 2” [5 cm]
2-3 = 2” [5 cm]
1-4 = 2 x waist
3-5 = 1-4
5-6 = 2-3
4-7 = 4-6
5-8 = 5-6
Join 6 to 7 and 8.
Grainline is parallel to line 2-6.
Note: Add ¾” [2 cm] seam allowance to perimeter of pattern pieces except for sleeve bottoms.
Add ⅜” [1 cm] seam allowance to tie pattern piece.
Back – cut 1X self on fold
Fronts – cut 2X self
Sleeves – cut 2X self
Collar – cut 2X self
Ties – cut 2X self
Collar Interfacing – cut 1X fusible on fold
- Iron fusible interfacing to under-collar following manufacturer’s directions.
- Turn under neckline seam allowance on under-collar and press.
- With right sides facing together (RST), align under-collar to top-collar. Run stitch around collar perimeter leaving neckline open. Trim corners and grade seams. Turn right side out and press flat. Set aside.
- Fold tie lengthwise with RST and align raw edges; match up diagonal end. Stitch tie leaving blunt short end open. Trim and grade seam allowance. Turn right side out and press flat. Repeat for second tie. Set aside.
- Sew up waist suppression darts on back and fronts.
- With RST, match fronts to back at shoulder. Stitch shoulder seam and press open.
- Align and match top-collar to back neckline with collar FACE to wrong side of body and extend over shoulder seams.
- Sew collar to neckline of garment. Clip seam allowance on front edge where the collar connects. Turn in the seam allowance at the neck into the collar and align the folded edge of the under-collar to the machine-stitching. Slip-stitch bottom edge of under-collar to body.
- With RST, align and match sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve caps to armholes.
- With RST, join fronts to back by aligning and matching side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch all in one motion from sleeve bottoms to hemline. On right front side only, leave a 2” [5 cm] slit opening at the waistline on the side seam.
- To finish the garment, turn in ⅜” [1cm] along the front neckline, then turn in ⅜” [1cm] once more. Topstitch in place (be careful not to stretch the neckline as you sew.)
- Do the same double-turned roll on the hemline.
- Turn under the vertical front edges of the garment ⅜” [1cm] towards the inside of the garment. Turn under again by ⅜” [1cm]. As you topstitch the turn down, attach a tie to each front just below the neckline edge by encasing the open end of the tie in the seaming. Once the topstitch is complete, fold the tie over the garment edge and secure in place with a second row of topstitching.
- Turn the sleeve bottoms up ½” [0.6 cm] and press; then turn up ½” [0.6cm] more and hem.