Simple eyelet vest with a “peek-a-boo” attitude.
Try styling it similar to this one from Chulette; fully lined with tan colour cotton fabric to add some contrast.
You will need:
- 1 ¼ yds. [1.15 m] leno-cut fabric, 45” [114 cm] wide such as eyelet.
- 1 ¼ yds. [1.15m] of matching lining, 45” [114 cm] wide such as broadcloth.
- Coordinating thread
- Kraft paper
Bust – measure around fullest part of chest, just under the armpit.
Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso, just above the navel.
Shoulder – measure shoulder length from ball socket to neckline.
Back width – measure across shoulder blades from armpit to armpit.
Backwaist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waistline.
Cut a length of kraft paper equal to your bust measurement + 3” [75mm].
Fold the paper in half across its widest point.
Plot point A on the foldline at the top of the paper.
A-B = 2” [50mm]
B-C = backwaist length
C-D = ½ of B-C less 1” [25mm]
Square across all points at 90°
D-E = ½ of bust measurement
Square up and down from E to locate F and G.
H = midpoint of A-D.
Square across from H.
H-I = ½ of back width minus 1” [25mm].
A-J = 3 ½” [90mm].
K is located where lines squared from B and J intersect.
Draw a shallow arc at K to join B to J as shown.
L is half of D-E.
Square up and down from L to locate M and N.
F-O = 3 ½” [90mm].
E-P = 3” [75mm].
Q is located where lines squatted from O and P intersect.
Draw a deep arc at Q to join O and P as shown.
M-R = J-K + ½” [12 mm].
Draw a straight line from J and O to R.
J-S = 2/3 of shoulder measurement.
O-T = 2/3 of shoulder measurement.
Join S-I-L with a smooth curve as shown.
Trace this curve on the front portion between L and T.
G-U = 3 ½” [90mm].
G-V = 3 ½” [90 mm].
Draw a smooth arc at G connect U and V as shown.
C-W = 1” [25mm].
Square a line across from W.
N-X = ½” [12 mm].
X-Y = 1” [25 mm].
X-Z = 1” [25 mm].
Join points W-Y and V-Z with a smooth line.
Join points Y and Z to L with a straight line.
Add seam allowances to perimeter of pattern pieces except armhole.
Cut out pattern with paper on the fold.
Grainlines are parallel to CB and CF of pattern.
Cut 2 bias strips 2 ½” wide [65mm] in lining fabric.
Cut front 2X self
Cut back 1X self
Cut front lining 2X lining
Cut back lining 1X lining.
- With right sides together (RST), match up vest fronts to vest back and pin/baste side seams and shoulder seams. Stitch seams and press open.
- Repeat Step 1 for vest lining.
- With RST, align and match vest to lining around outer edges. Pin/baste in place. Stitch around the perimeter of the garment. Trim and grade seam allowance close to stitching. Turn vest right side out through armhole.
- Press seam flat around outer edge of vest. (Use a press cloth as not to mar fabric).
- Align and match up armhole opening. Baste both layers of fabric together.
- Bind each armhole with bias strip. To do this, fold the bias strip in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press foldline (use an up & down motion). Place the raw edges of the bias strip along the armhole on the face side of the vest. Stitch around the armhole using a 3/8” [1 cm] seam allowance. Turn under the short ends to neaten and complete.
- Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance in the armholes and align the folded edge to the machine-stitching. Slipstitch binding to lining.