peasant-blouse

In the fashion world, bohemian or boho, refers to a a state of mind regarding fashion that is individual, romantic, and free-spirited. This style is often called hippie-chic. Try drafting and making a fully-gathered yoked boho blouse to wear with your skinny jeans.

You will need:

  • Approx. 1.5 yds. [1.4 m] of fashion fabric, 60″ [150 cm] wide
  • Approx. 0.5 yd. [0.5 m] of fusible interfacing, 24″ [60 cm] wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure under the arms around the fullest part of chest.

Back waist length – measure from nape of neck to waistline.

Shoulder width – measure across back from shoulder to shoulder.

PATTERN

blouse-draftYoke:

Fold kraft paper into quarters, aligning the foldline.

From the folded corner, measure ½ of shoulder width plus ½” [1.25 cm] across the paper.

From the folded corner, measure ½ of shoulder width minus 1″ [2.5cm] down the paper.

From the folded corner, draw a 45° line between the 2 foldlines.

Plot a point on the line equaling ½ of shoulder width. Label point, X.

Join these 3 points with a smooth curve.

Draw a second line 4″ [10 cm] parallel to the curved line within the curve to complete the yoke.

Add ½” [1.25 cm] seam allowances to neckline and yokeline.

Cut the shape from the folded paper.

Body:

Square 2 lines across and down the paper.

The length of the body equals the back waist length plus 1″ [2.5 cm] hem.

Label the length, CENTER FOLD.

The width of the body equals ½ of the bust measurement.

Square from these points to complete the body pattern.

On the side seam, measure 5″ [13 cm] from the hem. Label this point, O.

Point X is located at the top of the sideseam.

Add ½”[1.25 cm] seam allowance to top edge and side seam.

Sleeve:

Fold kraft paper in half and square a line from the foldline.

Plot a point on the line equal to the distance from X to O on the body section.

Label this point, X and label the foldline, O on the sleeve section.

Square a line from X.

Plot a point on this line from X and along the foldline from O equal to ½ the bust measurement.

Join the 2 points with a straight line. Add a 1-inch [2.5 cm] hem to complete the sleeve.

Add ½” [1.25 cm] seam allowances to top edge and side seam.

Cut the sleeve shape from the folded paper.

CUTTING

blouse-assemblyYoke – Cut 2X self.

Yoke Interfacing – Cut 1X fusible.

Body – Cut 2X self on fold.

Sleeve – Cut 2X self.

ASSEMBLY

  1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of 1 yoke section following the manufacturer’s directions.
  2. With right sides together (RST), match up the front and back sections of the body. Pin/baste side seam between O and hem edge. Stitch side seams. Press open.
  3. Turn under a ½” [1.25 double rolled hem along the sleeve opening and topstitch down.
  4. With RST, pin/baste sleeve between the Xs on the body. Stitch seam and press open.
  5. Sew 2 rows of gathering stitches across the top edge of the front and back body from sleeve opening to sleeve opening. Draw up threads and gather fabric.
  6. With RST, pin/baste gather edges of body to yoke, matching centers and Xs. Butt sleeve opening edge together and pin/baste at shoulder point on yoke. Distribute gathers evenly.
  7. Machine stitch yokeline. Press seam allowance towards yoke. Turn garment right side out.
  8. Turn under seam allowance along outer edge on interfaced yoke piece. Press.
  9. Match neckline of interfaced yoke piece to neckline of garment. Pin/baste in place. Stitch neck seam. Clip and grade seam allowance. Pull interfaced yoke piece through neckline to inside. Understitch the neckline.
  10. Lap the folded edge of the interfaced yoke piece over the gathered yoke seam, matching the centers, shoulders, and Xs. Slipstitch yokeline to encase the raw edges of the gathers.
  11. Turn under the hem allowance of the garment and press. Stitch a ½” [1.25 cm] double rolled hem.