Learn to make skirt patterns according to your measurements; and they’re guaranteed to fit! To give you an illustration of how easy it is to make a pattern, let’s make a 8-gore skirt like the model is wearing. For the example, we’ll use a waist measurement of 32 inches, hip 42 inches and skirt length of 24 inches. Remember, when you make the skirt for yourself you simply use your waist, hip, and skirt length measurements instead of these sample ones.
Let’s establish your height parameters.
Square across the paper to make a “T” shape. This will be the waistline.
Then measure down 8″ [20 cm] and draw a parallel line squaring from the centerline. This is the hipline.
Measuring from the waistline, draw a second parallel line equal to your desired skirt length and square from the waistline. This will be the hemline.
Now that you have your grid set up, it is time to use your body measurements to set the girth parameters.
Start by deciding how many gores you wish to create. Even numbers (4,6, 8, 10, etc.) will make your skirt symmetrical, but I like to use the “rule of 3s”. Odd numbers (5, 7, 9, 11, etc.) makes for a more interesting look. Either way, the number of panels used will create a gore skirt that will fit.
For the waistline, take your waist measurement divided by the number of panels desired.
For example, to create a 8-gore skirt to fit a 32″ [81.5 cm] waistline.
32″ divided by 8 = 4″[10 cm]
The hipline is normally 8″ [20 cm] below the waist, so at that point you’ll make a horizontal like equal to hip divided by number of panels desired + ¼” [6 mm].
Our sample hip measurement is 42″ [107 cm], so the horizontal line is 5 ¼ ” [13.5 cm] plus ¼” [ 6mm] = 5 ½” [14 cm].
With a straight yardstick, draw in the outside lines of the skirt, connecting the waist to hip to the hemline and draw in the bottom line.
At the top of the”T”, measure down ¼” [6 mm] and make the slight waistline curve.
The outside edges of the bottom are measured up ¼” [6 mm] each and the slight hemline curve drawn.
Make your waistband to equal your waist measurement plus 1 ½” [40 mm], and the width is 2 ½” [65 mm] (your finished waistband will be 1 ¼” [32 mm] wide).
Remember you have not allowed for seams yet, so after making the skirt pattern, mark the 1/2″ seam allowance all around and add a 2″ hem. The seam allowance will be drawn around the skirt as well as the waistband.
Remember you will need to cut multiples of this pattern equal to the number of panels desired. Eg. cut 8 of the skirt pieces, since it is a 8-gore skirt.
The vertical center line of the pattern will be used as the “straight grain” line, when placing the pattern on the fabric.
February 16, 2008 at 10:39 pm
Hi, I think I gonna make this skirt, you explained it really easy.
Thanks
July 1, 2008 at 6:43 am
[…] Gored Skirt […]
August 27, 2008 at 9:17 pm
have fun being a weekend designer!
December 14, 2008 at 8:34 am
I discovered your site a couple of months ago and follow it with my feed reader. Your site is great!
I’ve been looking for a pattern to make a gored skirt but have trouble finding ones that fit me (waist is usually on one pattern, hips on another). I’d much rather draft my own custom-fit pattern. Thanks!
March 12, 2009 at 8:34 pm
Guaranteed to fit eh? I look forward to finding out for myself. This is a great pattern, so simple and so well explained. Thanks heaps for sharing it.
April 15, 2009 at 3:04 pm
Hey, nice tips. Perhaps I’ll buy a glass of beer to the person from that forum who told me to go to your blog 🙂
July 19, 2009 at 12:56 am
This explanation is wonderful as far as it goes, but how do you do the details necessary to be able to wear it?
Unless I use really, really stretchy material I’ll have to put in a zipper or buttons or something or I’ll never get the waist over my hips. . .
Or am I way more of a beginner than you were writing for?
July 19, 2009 at 5:59 pm
This is a patterndrafting blog.
There are many sewing reference books to show you how to sew skirt details, Janet. Try your local library.
You will certainly need a zipper, but you can decide where you want to place it. eg. at the centerback seam or on the side seam. This draft is designed for woven fabrics only; stretch fabrics would not be appropriate for use without adaptations.
WD
September 14, 2009 at 4:31 pm
i just wanna say thanks a million for your drafts they look so easy to understand. i hope to start work them soon.once again i say THANK YOU
December 2, 2009 at 5:49 am
Hi, I love your gore skirt, but what adjustment do I make if my back waist to hem is different (longer) then my front (I have an apple shape body) so that there is not dips etc.
December 2, 2009 at 3:01 pm
Hi Kaylene….the solution to your question would be to draft the gore panel as shown, then trace it onto fresh paper times the number of gores needed. Divide the panels into a front section and a back section and add the extra length you desire for the back (to have the back sew into the front you must start at nil at the sideseams).
WD
April 19, 2010 at 8:34 am
so sexyyy!! I want that one!!
May 19, 2010 at 10:04 am
Hi! Great pattern with easy to follow instructions. If I follow the instructions exactly it will be skin tight around the waist, should I add in an amount for ease?
May 21, 2010 at 5:23 pm
Thx Susan….ease isn’t necessary around the waistline as you want a comfortable snug fit. However if you like to wear your skirts lower down on the high hip, you certainly can do so. My suggestion is not to exceed a max of 2 inches of ease overall for this style of skirt.
WD
June 4, 2010 at 4:17 am
thanks for the how to! i’m going to put this to the test on sunday!
July 12, 2010 at 1:13 pm
[…] need to draft more: I followed the gored skirt tutorial from Weekend Designer for this skirt. It’s just too simple, and fits absurdly well. Why do I bother with […]
September 21, 2010 at 7:59 am
[…] out the same site for a pencil skirt and gored skirt or here for a gored skirt pattern, or […]
October 29, 2010 at 10:04 pm
So easy to follow – thank you.
Could you add a formula to work out how much fabric is required?
I am making a matching skirt for my 4 year old – as the base of a dress up costume.
June 10, 2011 at 10:16 am
[…] for drafting a gored skirt from Weekend […]
November 18, 2014 at 4:58 pm
[…] one, I took some help from this very helpful […]