Featured: Cloche hat from Banana Republic
A buckled cloche for Spring. Easy-peasy and pretty!
You will need:
- Graph paper
- approx. 1 yd. of fusible interfacing, 45″ wide
- approx. 1 yd. of bottom-weight or upholstery fashion fabric, 54″-60″ wide
- approx. 1/2 yd. of lining fabric, 45″ wide
- approx. 3/4 yd. of grosgrain ribbon, 2″ wide
- 1 belt buckle, 1 ½” wide
- coordinating thread
DIMENSIONS
This hat draft is a medium size for a head circumference of approximately 23” [58.5cm].
PATTERN
Grid: 1 square = 1 inch [25 mm]
Add ½ inch seam allowances to all pattern pieces.
Trace out and cut pattern shapes on fold of graph paper.
CUTTING
Cut the crown side 2X; lining 2X ; interfacing 2X
Cut the crown top 1X; lining 1X; interfacing 1X
Cut the brim 2X; interfacing 1X
Cut the belt strap 2X; interfacing 1X
Cut the sweatband (grosgrain ribbon) 24” long X 2″ wide.
ASSEMBLY
1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of each crown piece and to one of each of the brim and strap pairs, following manufacturer’s directions.
2. On each brim piece, pin and baste CB seam with right side together. Stitch seam using a ½” seam allowance and press open.
3. Layer the 2 brim pieces with right sides facing together and align the CB seams. Pin/baste outer edges together. Sew around the perimeter of the brim.
4. Grade and trim the seam allowance and turn brim right side out. Press outer edge flat.
TIP: Due to fabric thickness, it is important to grade the seam allowances as you sew. The bulk will reduce the headfitting measurement. You may also take less of the seam allowance to account for the bulk.
5. Topstitch outer edge of brim. (I use the width of the presser foot as a spacer.) The more stitching you put, the stiffer the brim. Set aside.
6. Layer the belt strap pieces with right sides facing together. Align and match up raw edges and pin/baste together. Machine-stitch across one short end and along the 2 long edges. Grade and trim seam allowances and turn strap right side out. Press outer edges flat. Topstitch around perimeter of the strap. Set aside.
7. Pin/baste the side pieces to the top section, with right sides facing together. Ease the straight edges into the curved ones. Machine-stitch the 2 side seams of the crown portion. Press the seam open. (You may need to clip the seam allowance to get it to lie flat.) Turn the crown right side out.
8. Repeat the same method for the hat lining. Insert the lining into the hat crown with wrong sides facing together. Baste lining to crown around the circumference of the crown.
9. Align the CF and CB and the Xs of the crown and the brim. Match up these points, pin and basting with right sides together. Machine stitch the crown section to the brim, using a ½” seam allowance.
10. Sew in grosgrain ribbon as a “sweatband”. This should equal the head fitting measurement. Lay the ribbon on top of the seam allowance along the top of the brim and edge stitch along the ribbon edge. Overlap at CB. Grade and trim the seam allowance . Turn the ribbon up into the crown to conceal the raw edge of the seam allowance and tack to CB of hat with hand stitching.
11. On the left side of the hat exterior above the seamline of the brim, handstitch the open end of the belt strap to the center of the crown side piece using a narrow seam allowance. (Do this with the belt strap pointing to the front of the hat.) Fold the strap back onto itself and slip on the buckle. Wrap the strap around the hat’s crown and slip loose end into the buckle. (Add punched eyelets if you are using a pronged belt buckle).
May 7, 2009 at 9:30 pm
Whoa.
May 7, 2009 at 10:07 pm
I like your tutorial but I would like to see a picture of the finished product. That photo is from Banana Republic.
May 8, 2009 at 1:34 pm
Thanks for the source, Hilary. I’ll add it to the post.
May 20, 2009 at 11:30 am
It would be helpful to see the result of your pattern. The image seems like a hat shaped from a single piece of felt, as opposed to several pieces of upholstery fabric sewn together as you suggest. It would be interesting to see how you’ve translated the style.
May 20, 2009 at 2:55 pm
Thx Erin but I like to keep the patterndrafting as simple as possible for home sewers.
May 7, 2009 at 11:09 pm
What a gorgeous hat, looks so chic!
May 7, 2009 at 11:42 pm
Ohh, I love this one!!!
May 8, 2009 at 1:43 am
This is a real Try-for-the-Fun-of-It design. I have an old VinMax puffer iron, so should even be able to shape the crown. Thank you and I’m very happy you are back here. Cordially, Nehmah
May 8, 2009 at 6:46 am
This is soooo cool, i checked your site everyday, sorry to be so addictive to it, but it is always a pleasure to have a peek at it, going to try this hat for sure!! have a good day! Sonja
May 8, 2009 at 2:48 pm
your pattern looks great! thanks so much for it. I hope, I will manage that my hat will look as good as yours.
Thanks and best wishes for you
eleonor
May 8, 2009 at 7:26 pm
I can’t wait to try this!
May 8, 2009 at 7:31 pm
Don,
Thanks for this! I love making hats and am learning to do more pattern making – so this is a wonderful opportunity to practice both! I love your blog!
May 9, 2009 at 1:50 am
Oh, I like making up an d sewing.Love your blog so much!
June 12, 2009 at 8:18 am
hey, I just spent 3 hours trying to make this, and I am not trying to be mean at all just letting you know my results: I followed the measurements and directions exactly, and my brim ended up being WAAAY too wide (aka hangs down to about my nose) and it was too short as well (it was missing about 3 inches and left the whole CB of the top panel brimless…Have you made this hat before? I’m wondering what went wrong. I go to fidm and have had pattern drafting classes up to my ears, so I expected I would do fine. But something went horribly wrong…
June 12, 2009 at 12:42 pm
Hi Haley
Sorry that you are having problems with the hat construction. I have to admit that the sizing is somewhat limited (it is a meduim) and if your head measurement isn’t 22 1/2 inches then you might find it is too big or too small. However, from your results I don’t doubt that you have done the drafting correctly. I suspect that the problem lies in the variables such as the fabric used and the thickness of it. It is amazing how quickly 4 layers of thin fabric will reduce your measurements.
To help you with your particular hat, reducing the brim width will not affect the fit if you find it too large but you must keep the seam that connects to the crown as is. (if you find the seam allowance is too wide or buckles, clip into it to release the tension) Also as a suggestion, when attaching the brim to the crown, divide each piece into quarters. Pin together at these points; then pin these quarters by distributing any fullness (curved seams don’t sew into straight ones very well) to prevent running out of the brim as you did. Please don’t give up, Harley. I’d hate to have you give up on your hat after only one try.
June 29, 2009 at 9:21 pm
I will have to double check this pattern for you Haley. I make hat patterns to measure. Just giv me some time to look at it.
cheers Sue
July 2, 2009 at 1:12 pm
Sue tailor makes hats to your headsize and sells her patterns for the hats at Etsy.com, if you would prefer to make the hat yourself. You can find her at McHats.etsy.com
July 10, 2009 at 5:51 pm
Just wondering if you have actually made this yourself, and how it turned out. I would love to see pictures of the end result as some of the other posts have suggested.
November 29, 2009 at 7:13 pm
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December 2, 2009 at 2:27 am
Why don’t you have a photo of one you made instead of a Banana Republic photo? I would prefer to see yours.
March 17, 2010 at 2:41 am
I would also like to see the hat that you made and not the photo from Banana Republic. I tried making this hat and the crown was too high, it did not fit snug around the head. I didn’t even bother to finish it.
April 22, 2010 at 5:22 am
I discover your website and love it! (I linked it on http://galimamphigouric.canalblog.com/archives/2010/04/22/17653705.html )
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It, the cloche, is the first hat pattern i have been happy with, the brim was a bit wide but that was easy fixed,I have cut out 6 in cotton they turned out well.
thanks
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