Featured: Luba tweed cloak
You will need:
- approx. 3 yds. [2.75 m] of fashion fabric, 54” [137 cm] wide.
- ½ yd. [0.5 m] of stay tape, 1/2” [12 mm] wide.
- coordinating thread
- kraft paper
DIMENSIONS: approx. 44” [112 cm] long and 160” [400 cm ] sweep.
Draw 2 lines across paper at a 90° angle from point A.
A-B = width of fashion fabric less 2” [75 mm]; eg. 52” [132 cm].
A-C = A-B.
A-D = 9” [23 cm].
A-E = A-D.
Arc a radius of 9” [23 cm] from A connecting D to E.
D-F = 8” [20 cm].
E-G = D-F.
Arc a radius of 17” [43.2 cm] from A connecting F to G.
A-H = A-B on a 45° tangent line taken from A.
I is located at the intersection of F-G.
Arc a radius of 52” [132 cm] from connecting B, H, and C.
Extend C to E by 1” [25 mm]; draw a parallel line to C-E.
Sunburst Yoke Section
Create the sunburst detail on the yoke with 11 neckline darts.
Reduce the neckline to 8” [40.5 cm] from D to E. (Total measurement = 16″)
Dart width = 1 ⅛” [30 mm].
Design Note: For a smaller neckline, increase the number of darts. Keep the darting symmetrical to create the sunburst effect.
Place first dart on line A-I.
Place second dart (half-width) at centerback (D-F). Both are 8” [20 cm] long.
Divide distance between the 2 darts equally into thirds. Square 6” [15.2 cm] from line D-E. Draw in a dart at each location.
Divide distance between A-I and E-G equally into thirds. Square 6” [15.2 cm] from line D-E. Draw in a dart at each location.
Trace off yoke section onto folded paper with D-F on the foldline.
Separate yoke at shoulderline (A-I).
For neckline tie, draw a rectangle 54” long X 2” wide [137 cm x 5 cm].
Add ½” [12 mm] seam allowance to tie, yoke seams, shoulders, neckline, and hem.
Cape Body – cut 1X self
Yoke Back – cut 1X self
Yoke Front – cut 2X self
Cape Tie – cut 1X self
Cutting Tip: Align front edges of pattern pieces on selvedge of fabric for a neat seam finish.
1. With right sides together (RST), fold tie in half lengthwise and sew each end of tie leaving neck measurement open at center. Trim corners and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Set aside.
2. With right sides together, sew yoke fronts to yoke back at shoulders. Grade seams and fold along shoulder seam with wrong sides together. With yoke FACE UP, sew dart at shoulder seam and secure shoulderline on underside with stay tape.
3. With wrong sides together, sew up darts along neckline on yoke.
5. Turn in 1” [25 mm] along CF edge. Topstitch in place.
6. Align and match tie to neckline of cape. Sew tie to neckline. Tuck seam allowance into tie and slip-stitch opening closed.
7. Hem sweep of cape.