Featured: Luba tweed cloak
The sunburst yoke, always a favourite, is the feature of this flattering and simple cloak. This one by Luba is fashioned in tweed but any double-faced bottom-weight fashion fabric will do.
You will need:
- approx. 3 yds. [2.75 m] of fashion fabric, 54” [137 cm] wide.
- ½ yd. [0.5 m] of stay tape, 1/2” [12 mm] wide.
- coordinating thread
- kraft paper
DIMENSIONS: approx. 44” [112 cm] long and 160” [400 cm ] sweep.
PATTERN
Cape Section
Draw 2 lines across paper at a 90° angle from point A.
A-B = width of fashion fabric less 2” [75 mm]; eg. 52” [132 cm].
A-C = A-B.
A-D = 9” [23 cm].
A-E = A-D.
Arc a radius of 9” [23 cm] from A connecting D to E.
D-F = 8” [20 cm].
E-G = D-F.
Arc a radius of 17” [43.2 cm] from A connecting F to G.
A-H = A-B on a 45° tangent line taken from A.
I is located at the intersection of F-G.
Arc a radius of 52” [132 cm] from connecting B, H, and C.
Extend C to E by 1” [25 mm]; draw a parallel line to C-E.
Sunburst Yoke Section
Create the sunburst detail on the yoke with 11 neckline darts.
Reduce the neckline to 8” [40.5 cm] from D to E. (Total measurement = 16″)
Dart width = 1 ⅛” [30 mm].
Design Note: For a smaller neckline, increase the number of darts. Keep the darting symmetrical to create the sunburst effect.
Place first dart on line A-I.
Place second dart (half-width) at centerback (D-F). Both are 8” [20 cm] long.
Divide distance between the 2 darts equally into thirds. Square 6” [15.2 cm] from line D-E. Draw in a dart at each location.
Divide distance between A-I and E-G equally into thirds. Square 6” [15.2 cm] from line D-E. Draw in a dart at each location.
Trace off yoke section onto folded paper with D-F on the foldline.
Separate yoke at shoulderline (A-I).
For neckline tie, draw a rectangle 54” long X 2” wide [137 cm x 5 cm].
Add ½” [12 mm] seam allowance to tie, yoke seams, shoulders, neckline, and hem.
CUTTING
Cape Body – cut 1X self
Yoke Back – cut 1X self
Yoke Front – cut 2X self
Cape Tie – cut 1X self
Cutting Tip: Align front edges of pattern pieces on selvedge of fabric for a neat seam finish.
ASSEMBLY
1. With right sides together (RST), fold tie in half lengthwise and sew each end of tie leaving neck measurement open at center. Trim corners and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Set aside.
2. With right sides together, sew yoke fronts to yoke back at shoulders. Grade seams and fold along shoulder seam with wrong sides together. With yoke FACE UP, sew dart at shoulder seam and secure shoulderline on underside with stay tape.
3. With wrong sides together, sew up darts along neckline on yoke.
4. With RST, sew yoke to body along yokeline. Grade seam and press upward. With garment FACE UP, topstitch yokeline.
5. Turn in 1” [25 mm] along CF edge. Topstitch in place.
6. Align and match tie to neckline of cape. Sew tie to neckline. Tuck seam allowance into tie and slip-stitch opening closed.
7. Hem sweep of cape.
August 24, 2009 at 3:24 am
What a fine cloak for Autumn in the South. Where did I hide my woolens?! Cordially, Nehmah
August 25, 2009 at 11:32 pm
This is so elegant. I love it!
September 30, 2009 at 12:04 pm
I was looking for a pattern of cape for a very long time, but now I am very happy to find this one.
This is what I have dreamed ; this kind of cape is like in my dream.
Thank you very much,
L.
October 31, 2009 at 3:25 pm
This is really cool!
October 29, 2010 at 5:43 am
can’t wait to get my fabric out!
November 4, 2010 at 10:10 am
This truly is an elegant cloak. I saw a similar yoke in a movie (I think it was about the medieval period) & I sincerely coveted it. Now I have the pattern. Also, thank you so much for your generosity in allowing us all to have such beautiful designs. You should be blessed daily as you bless those who learn from you.
February 18, 2012 at 7:54 pm
[…] SUNBURST CLOAK « Weekend designer. […]
February 27, 2014 at 12:28 pm
[…] Capes have such a beautiful flare to them and they feel so glamours while being utterly practical. This free pattern has a sunburst yoke making this cape even more flattering. The photo features this cape done in a tweed but any double-faced bottom-weight fashion fabric will do. You can find the detailed pattern and instructions here […]