Featured: Selma dress
In many cases, discover your fabric as inspiration and the theme for the piece begins there. There are so many design ideas you can do with patterned fashion fabric and a bit of elastic. Take for instance, the Selma dress with an elasticized bodice and striking rope trim makes for a nautical style and fun back by Christopher Deane. Come across your own themed fabric and try this dress draft for summer.
You will need:
- approx. 2 ½ yds. [2.3m] of fashion fabric, 45″ [114 cm] wide (depends on desired length)
- shirring elastic thread.
- 4 yds. [3.6m] of cording, 1/2″ [12mm] diameter
- Coordinating thread
MEASUREMENTS
X = bust measurement (measure just under the arms around the fullest part of the chest).
Finished length = measure vertically from the armpit to the desired hemline .
PATTERN
This is a patternless design (simple block draft). Plot and cut block layout directly onto the fabric according to your measurements as illustrated (seam allowance is included).
CUTTING
Cut 1 front, cut 1 back, cut 4 bra cups and cut 4 loop carriers (1-1/2” [4 cm] wide strips).
ASSEMBLY
1. Make 2 self-lined bra cups. Begin by layering 2 pieces, with right sides together. Stitch across narrow top edge using ½” seam allowance. From machine stitching, measure down ½” and sew down both sides of bra piece, using ½” seam allowance. Press seams open; then turn bra cup right side out. Press bra cups flat and topstitch across the top of each bra cup below the openings. Baste the raw edges together. Set aside.
2. With FACE side up, shirr fabric panels using elastic thread in the bobbin. Begin 1” from top edge of panel and stitch across width of each panel. Do parallel rows of shirring about ½” apart (I used the presser foot width as a guide) and continue until you have a shirred length of fabric equal to 1/3 X.
For example: if the bust equals 36 inches , you would shirr 12-inch length from the top edge of the panel.
3. With right sides together, layer the fabric panels and align the shirred portions while matching the edges along the length. Pin or baste and stitch to create a tube, using ½” seam allowances. Press seams open.
Design Note: The fit of this style is not a snug one. The dress is designed to hang from the shoulder straps. You may get a closer fit by increasing the seam allowance at the side seams.
4. Hem the bottom edge of the tube with a narrow double rolled hem by turning under the bottom edge twice by ½” and press. Topstitch hemline.
5. On one panel front, find the center of the panel above the shirring and mark. Pin/baste one bra cup on either side of this mark, with right side facing. Sew across bottom edges of bra cups.
6. Make carriers 1/2″ X 3″ [12mm X 75mm]; you will need 4 of them. At the outer edges of the bra cups, fold a carrier in half to form a loop and secure to either side of the garment. Divide the back portion between the two loop carriers into thirds. Place a loop carrier at each location and secure.
7. Serge or pink the raw edge of the top edge. Turn top edge to inside and press. Topstitch in place.
8. Cut 2 lengths of cording. Thread cord in each bra casing and gather up excess fabric to create the gathers. Knot cording together to create halter straps and thread through loop carriers.
June 12, 2009 at 1:53 am
Very cool! I want to try this! Thanks so much for posting the pattern.
June 16, 2009 at 12:12 am
Hie just wanted to sa tthank you so much. I love your website. Its funny was conteplating buying such a dress ffrom a store at a ridiculous price, but now want to make one myself. Thank you and love you. Keep up the good work. Thanks once again.
June 18, 2009 at 9:02 am
I have a question: When you say to shirr 1/3x, is that to the length of the garment, or is that to the width of it going around underbust? As a follow-up, how wide should the shirring be, or how tight should I be shirring it through the machine?
June 19, 2009 at 6:32 pm
I was referring to the length of the garment for 1/3 X. ( for example if the bust equals 36 inches , you would shirr 12 inch length from the top edge of the panel. )
I’ll amend my tutorial to make it more clear as the shirring is done across the entire width of the fabric panel. I can’t say how much/how tight the shirring will be as it is all dependent on the thickness of fabric used and the elasticity of the shirring thread but in most cases the ratio is 2:1. In my draft I used twice the needed width to allow for the shirring and to allow for fullness in the hemline. Having said that, keep in mind that if the fit is too loose or the top portion gapes, you may taking larger seam allowances at the side seams.
WD
June 19, 2009 at 5:52 pm
I absolutely love all your designs to make things. They’re so helpful and I hate spending loads of money on clothes seeing as I don’t have that much money yet I feel the need to have lods of clothes. Inspiring!!
June 19, 2009 at 6:17 pm
Thx Mili…don’t know if I can save you money on clothing…but you can select your own fabrics, colours, and quality of workmanship custom-made to your measurements. I think all of that is worth the cost of making it yourself.
WD
June 24, 2009 at 4:43 am
[…] Pattern Page: Nautical Halter Dress […]
June 24, 2009 at 6:03 pm
love your website^^
July 4, 2009 at 7:02 am
Your blog is amazing! Simple, elegant,generous, with lots information, patterns and instructions! I’m a follower!…a fan! Congrats!
August 24, 2009 at 4:47 am
I made this one and I want to send you a picture how should I do that? There is a pic on my blog at the mo but I will have better ones I was just so excited to blog about it that I wanted to put up a picture straight away. Great dress, easy and comfortable. Thanks I’m a big fan of your patterns and your blog. Cheers, jess.
August 24, 2009 at 4:57 am
Thx Jessica…I’d luv to see it.
WD
February 15, 2010 at 11:05 pm
Thank you for this wonderfull pattern. I linked it on my blog (http://things-things-things.blogspot.com/2010/02/summers-coming.html) If you dont want that let me know:)
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