Featured: Ella Moss Red Label ‘Simone’ Top
Here’s an easy-to-draft casual fun style with a spirited “young in attitude” feel by Ella Moss. A silky knit blouson top designed with a fitted under-layer, topped with a second draped layer, featuring a single flutter sleeve offset by a thin spaghetti strap.
You will need:
- Approx. 2 yds. of jersey knit, 54″ wide **
- Approx. 1 yd. of 2-way stretch spandex, 45″ wide
- Coordinating thread
- Approx. 1 yd. of cable cord, 1/8″ thickness
- Kraft paper
MEASUREMENTS
Bust – measure just under arms around fullest part of chest.
Back waist length – measure from nape of neck to waist.
Bust height – measure from top of shoulder to apex of breast.
Apex Distance – measure distance between apexes of breasts.
Armscye Depth – measure from top of shoulder to underarm level.
Elbow Length – measure arm from neck, along shoulder to elbow.
PATTERN
Fold kraft paper in half lengthwise and open it flat.
Draw a straight line along the foldline of the paper.
Plot a point and label, 0.
0-1 = back waist length + 1″; square across
0-2 = bust height + 1″; square across
2-3 = ¼ of bust measurement
2-4 = ½ of apex distance + ½”; square down to locate 5 on line 1.
3-6 = 3-4; square across to locate 7 and 8.
Join 3 and 7 with a straight line.
3-9 = distance from 4 to 5 plus 4″; square across to locate 10.
11 is located midway between 1 and 2; square across.
10-12 = 9-10; square up to locate 13 at intersection of line from 11.
1-14 = 1-5
2-15 = 2-4; square up.
15-16 = armhole depth + 1″. Draw a tangent line from 0 through point 16.
17 is located at intersection of 8 and 15. Draw a tangent line from 0 through point 17.
18 is located midway between 0 and 16.
Join 15 to 18 with a straight line.
The fitted under-layer consists of 0-8-7-5-14-15-18-0. Trace.
0-19 = elbow length
0-20 = elbow length
Join 20 to 13 passing through 19 with a smooth curve.
The draped overlay consists of 0-8-6-9-12-13-20-0. Trace.
NOTE: Add ¼” seam allowances to perimeter of all pattern pieces.
** Please be aware that all stretch fabrics have different elasticity and will affect the design ease in the pattern draft based upon whatever you chose.
CUTTING
Cut all pattern pieces with greatest amount of stretch across the width of each piece.
Overlay – cut 2X in jersey knit fabric.
Underlay – cut 2X in spandex tricot fabric.
An 18″ strip of jersey fabric ½” wide for spaghetti strap.
ASSEMBLY
- Find mid-point of cable cord and place it on fabric strip with right side face up.
- Stitch across mid-point to attach cording to strip end.
- Wrap fabric strip around the cording with right sides together (RST). Using a zipper foot, stitch long edge of fabric close to the cording. Trim the seam allowance.
- Pull the fabric tubing down over the uncovered end of the cable cord, easing gently as it slips over the cording. You will have 18″ of thin spaghetti strapping. Cut off excess cable cord.
- With RST, layer the underlay pieces and match up seams. Pin/baste the side seams from 4 to 5 and from 14 to 15. Stitch seams.
- Match up shoulder seam and pin/baste from 0 to 18. Stitch seam.
- Sew a narrow double-rolled edge to finish the armhole. Set aside.
- With RST, layer the overlay pieces and match up seams. Pin/ baste the shoulder and sleeve together. Stitch seam and press open.
- With RST, match up the side seams and pin/baste from 3 to 9 and 12 to 13. Stitch seams and press open.
- With RST, match neckline of underlay to overlay. Match up points 7, 8, and 0. Stitch neckline. Clip seam allowance at 8 to release stress.
- Attach one end of spaghetti strap at point 7 between the two layers on the front.
- Pin/baste 3 to 4 and 7 to 7. Stitch left armhole seam.
- At hemlines of each layer, divide into 4 equal portions. With RST, match up each point and pin together. On overlay, gather hem edge to the under-layer between the pins. Pin/baste layers together. Stitch seam while slightly stretching the fabric to ease. Turn right side out through right sleeve opening.
- Put on top by slipping it on over the head. Place spaghetti strap over shoulder and align end with point 7 on back. Tack in place neatly.
- Stitch a narrow double-rolled hem edge on opening of flutter sleeve.
Addendum (as of August 2010)
It has come to my attention that the ease is too little for the drape of this garment. I am certain that you know that the pattern pieces are cut twice with the greatest amount of stretch going in the direction of the girth (ie. across the fabric rather than up & down with its length) as the cutting direction have clearly been given.
Please be aware that all stretch fabrics have different elasticity and will affect the design ease in the pattern draft based upon whatever you chose. It is very well possible that the elasticity of your fabric is not the same as the sample given. Therefore I will try to explain the concept of ease as it pertains to knits and stretch fabrics. I hope this will help you to get a better fit to your pattern draft.
DESIGNER EASE
Very easy-fitting garments can be cut from simple basic patterndraft when a designer wants to create styles that are loosely fitted or even oversized. This can be done by adding ease to create volume in the styling rather than grading up to the next size. Note that when dealing with basic body measurements, substantial extra ease must be added for movement and comfortable fit. The sizing remains the same, since the neckline and wrists have not changed in dimensions.
EASE CHART
Use this chart to determine the amount for additional ease for movement and styling.
Total Body
Ease |
Quarter Body Increase | Shoulder
Increase |
Underarm
Increase |
1” | ¼” | ⅛” | ⅛” |
2” | ½” | ¼” | ¼” |
3” | ¾” | ⅜” | ⅜” |
4” | 1” | ½” | ½” |
5” | 1 ¼” | ⅝” | ⅝” |
6” | 1 ½” | ¾” | ¾” |
7” | 1 ¾” | ⅞” | ⅞” |
8” | 2” | 1” | 1” |
9” | 2 ¼” | 1 ⅛” | 1 ⅛” |
10” | 2 ½” | 1 ¼” | 1 ¼” |
11” | 2 ¾” | 1 ⅜” | 1 ⅜” |
12” | 3” | 1 ½” | 1 ½” |
13” | 3 ¼” | 1 ⅝” | 1 ⅝” |
14” | 3 ½” | 1 ¾” | 1 ¾” |
For styling purposes, a designer may require garments to be loose-fitting, or much larger than regular styled garments. Understand that your garments may be created as large as you wish but the sizing does not change, because the styling is worn simply larger, looser, and baggier. To create additional volume without changing the fit, add designer ease instead of grading the pattern.
ADDING EASE INTO A PATTERNDRAFT (Blouson Top)
Use a straight waist (no dart suppression) on your chosen pattern as it does not make sense to make a loose-fitting “fitted” waistline on the garment.
- Draw a vertical line through the shoulder area to the hem and then the underarm area to the hem, dividing the quartered body ease equally.
- Next, draw a line horizontally through the armhole, the same amount that the shoulder is increased. Slash and spread the pattern to increase the fit. Blend the new lines together.
- Slash and spread the sleeve pattern to correspond to the body pattern. Only the widths of the body and sleeve have changed, not the garment size; the neckline and wrists remain the same.
Remember to keep the spread parallel with the centerline and the waistline (90° angle) to stay on straight grain with the grainline of your pattern.
Example of a pattern with 6 inches of additional ease.
October 21, 2008 at 5:45 am
This is absolutely STUNNING! I’ll be linking to this.
October 21, 2008 at 9:29 pm
I just wanted to say thank you so very much for such a nice blog! I always come back to see what is new here. you have a great talant and I hope you will keep posting new and interesting things here! Cant` wait to see what else you will post here! Thanks again!
October 21, 2008 at 9:33 pm
One more thing. I was wandering if you have any cute chick dresses for little girls that you could post here. Size 2 y.o to 6 y.o . Something that celebrety kids wear and very hard to buy because it cost so much!
Please post some !! Thank you , Thank you !Thank you!
October 22, 2008 at 1:52 am
[…] link […]
October 22, 2008 at 2:00 am
Thanks for the kind words, Jsolnushko.
Send me a pix of your celebrity chick dresses for little girls and I’ll see what I can do.
D.
October 22, 2008 at 1:37 pm
Amazing creation. As soon as I get appropriate fabric, I’ll try it.
Thanks for so many awesome ideas, I only recently discovered this blog.
October 22, 2008 at 6:24 pm
I’ve enjoyed learning about pattern drafting from your blog and this is by far my favorite top that you’ve explained! I love checking your blog every week. Keep up the great work!
October 23, 2008 at 10:36 am
I can’t believe I’ve JUST now found your wonderful site!
I’ll be back often.
I design shirts for men…and some childrens’ clothes too..and other garments…Do visit when you have a spare moment 🙂
Pamela Erny
October 23, 2008 at 2:22 pm
check out http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/ for creative kid’s wear designs and sewing tuturials.
October 23, 2008 at 3:41 pm
Just discovered your blog. Love it! Thank you for sharing!
October 28, 2008 at 11:15 am
Your blog is a real gem! I look forward to checking it out each week to drool. Alas, so many great projects and so little time. Keep up the great work and thank you for sharing.
November 4, 2008 at 2:01 am
Just found your blog and am entranced. This hat is exactly what I had in mind for a wonderful silver fox piece that I have. You have given me everything I need to know to make the hat. Thank you ever so much. Will be visiting often.
November 13, 2008 at 5:02 pm
First of all ..thank you for this site. I have such an akward body to fit so drafting patterns is just necessary.
I have a quick question. In the directions you have a line that says that 0-18 = elbow length and then that 0-20 = elbow length. Your diagram goes more with the latter but what should 0-18 be if anything?
TIA
Brit
November 14, 2008 at 4:01 am
Thanks Brit for spotting my typo
it should read…. 0-19 = elbow length
February 10, 2009 at 7:18 pm
I tried making this and wanted to share my experiences in the hopes of helping others avoid any frustration.
The instructions are very easy to follow even with the small typo for the elbow length line 0-19.
However in my initial draft I had to make a considerable amount of changes and still have to make some adjustments.
My first problem was the lining top was incredibly small. I know it’s supposed to made in lycra but using my measurments, my bust is 36 and bust apex is 7.5, this makes the lining top a total of 17″around.
The outershell pattern also does not come out near big enough to make all the gathers.
It’s a great starting point though. I love the top and plan to adjust the pattern to get the look.
August 29, 2010 at 1:34 pm
Did you get the pattern to work? i am having the same propblem. It is way to small and doesn’t remotely seem to drape like the picture.
August 30, 2010 at 2:53 am
Sorry Alisha that you are having difficulty with the fit. If you followed the drafting correctly I can only assume the fault may lie in the stretchability of your fabric. It varies greatly in the marketplace. I have added an addendum to the Drapey Blouson tutorial. I hope this information will help you get a better fit.
WD
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July 30, 2009 at 5:22 pm
WOOO – i would like 2 sawe it with 2 slaves
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