Featured: Burberry

Two of a kind – a fringed scarf with two handsome options. A sleek satin side and a warm wooly side.

You will need:

  • 2 yds. of wool fabric, 54″ wide
  • 2 yds. of printed satin fabric, 45″ wide
  • 1 yd. [0.9 m] of Stitch Witchery® bonding web, ½” wide
  • Coordinating thread


woolStraighten the fabric edge you want to fringe.

Cut a rectangle shape 72″ X 16″ from the wool fabric.

On the 2 short ends of the rectangle, pull a thread yarn across the fabric at the “depth” line. (1″ wide or as you desire). Use this line as a guide for running small machine stitches to secure the fringe.

To create the fringe, clip every 2-3″ perpendicular to the edge, up to but not through, the stitching or the perpendicular threads (these will be part of the fringe). Complete the fringe by pulling away all the threads below the stitching (I used a straight pin) as shown.


Cut a rectangle shape 73″ X 16″.

On the 2 short ends, turn ½” under and press.


Layer the fabrics, with right sides together, matching the folded ends of the satin to the “depth” line of the wool fringe. Sew the two long edges of the rectangle. Press seams open.

Turn right side out. Press along the long seams.

Sandwich a 15″ strip of the bonding web between the fabric layers at each short end. Press to fuse the opening close following manufacturer’s direction.

(TIP: Use a presscloth whenever fusing fabric.)

Featured: Bow-tie Bikini by Laura Urbinati

If you’re intent is on looking your best at the pool this summer, you might take matters into your own hands and make a swimsuit that will turn heads no matter where you happen to be swimming or lounging. This bikini design* from Milan-based Laura Urbinati is fresh, young at heart and very chic. Decide whether you want to use two-way or four-way stretch fabric, which will impact the durability of your swimsuit. Four-way stretch (Lycra® Spandex) will be more elastic for running, jumping and playing in the water, while two-way stretch (cotton/spandex tricot) has a tendency to run if the wearer participates in lots of activity so it is better for sun-bathing.

You will need:

  • about 60 cm [2/3 yd.] of stretch fabric
  • about 30 cm [1/3 yd.] of “nude” tricot lining
  • 2.5 m [2 ¾ yds.] of thin swimwear elastic (0 .5 cm [1/4″] width)
  • 1 bra hook closure set
  • Coordinating nylon thread



Cut bra cup 2X self

Cut bra cup lining 2X

Cut side back strap 2X self

Cut bikini back 1X self

Cut bikini front 1X self

Cut bikini internal flap (lining) 1X

Cut bow ties 6X self

Cut shoulder straps 2X self


To make the bra and bikini:

  1. Cut swimwear fabric (self) along the solid lines  (note: cutting is done so that 1 cm. turns are included along the edges that are then folded to contain the swimwear elastic within the finishing). Cut the bikini internal flap and the bra cups in a “nude” tricot lining.
  2. Stitch the dart seam that is marked on bra cup pattern to create the shape of the cups, sewing together the cups on the center front (CF) and line the bra. Sandwich the back straps on left and right at the side seams between the self fabric and the lining.
  3. Then topstitch the entire perimeter and finish with the elastic turned and zig-zag elastic finish on the backstraps.
  4. Create the shoulder straps by cutting two strips of fabric as pattern to be folded upon themselves to obtain the finished width of 1 cm; then sewn for their length and attached to bra (see pattern, red dots).
  5. Cut 6 bow tie shapes. Layer in pairs and sew with RST, then turned right side out, tie the bows in 3 knots to be applied on bikini at the sides and the bra in the middle (CF).
  6. Insert a closure hook closing at both ends of the back straps.
  7. Line the bikini front by joining the crotch seam to the back and reverse-layer with the internal flap (at crotch seam) and baste along the sides to the self fabric.
  8. Join the sideseams and outline the waist and leg openings with elastic. Finally, turn the edges and zig-zag elastic finish.

* Italian size 42 (this is size 36 European or 6 US)


Travelling through the urban jungle isn’t like dustin’ crops, buddy! For one thing, you’ve got to make sure you’ve got all your gear with you. You’ve got a cell-phone, iPod, headphones, keys, wallet, sunglasses… Before you know it, your pockets are bulging, and you’ve got nowhere to hook your thumbs and look cool.

I’ve found this awesome holster that hold lots of gadgets, and keeps them readily available. You never know when you’ll need to grab your cellphone, iPod, wallet, keys, headphones, pen, whatever… so make sure they were right at the ready to go. The pattern is easy and the fabrication is simple.

You will need:

  • 1 yd. of cotton poplin or duck, 60″ wide
  • 5/8 yd. of fusible interfacing, 60″ wide
  • 1 closed  8″ coil zipper
  • 1 square ring, 2″ diameter
  • 1 slider, 2″ diameter
  • 1 dome snap set, 3/4″ diameter
  • 30″ of  cable cord, ¼” thickness
  • Coordinating thread



Cut ring tab and wallet #5 2X and cut all remaining pieces 1X in fabric.

Cut all pieces 1X in fusible interfacing.

Cut 30″ of  1 ¼” wide bias binding for piping.


  1. Make up piping trim with bias strip and cable cord using a zipper or cording foot.
  2. Iron the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of all fabric pieces except 1 wallet piece (#5),  following the manufacturer’s directions.
  3. For the cell latch (1), fold right sides together and stitch long edge and one short end using ½” seam allowance. Grade and trim corner. Turn right side out. Press.
  4. Topstitch around the perimeter. Attach top part of dome snap as illustrated, following manufacturer’s directions.
  5. For cell pocket (2), sew each miter corner using ½” seam allowance. Trim.
  6. With right side together, fold pocket in half and align corners one on top each other.
  7. Sew along the raw edge, leaving an opening on one side for turning. Trim and grade seams.
  8. Turn right side out and press finished edge. Attach bottom part of dome snap as illustrated, following manufacturer’s directions.
  9. For ring tab (3), layer both pieces with right sides together. Sew along both shaped sides using ½” seam allowance. Trim and grade seams (the center should be 2″ wide). Turn right side out and press. Topstitch along finished seams.
  10. For wallet, turn under straight top edge of one piece of #5 and stitch down. Layer this piece with the second #5 piece to create a pocket. Baste outer edges together.  Attach top (4) and bottom (5) together, then topstitch this seam.  Apply corded piping to outer edge. (clip the piping in the corners to release the buckling).
  11. Attach zipper around top edge of the face of the wallet, next to the piping. Start midway up side, over the top, and down the opposite side.
  12. For the wallet side (6), fold strip in half with right side together and sew up short ends using ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.
  13. Fold “loop” in half with wrong sides together and match up raw edges. Baste together.
  14. Press the folded edge.
  15. Pin and baste raw edge of wallet side (6) to zipper and remaining wallet front (4-5) along the piped edge.  Sew wallet side (6) close to zipper through all layers using a zipper foot and continue around the face of the wallet section.
  16. For the holster shoulder strap (7), fold the fabric with right sides together and pin/baste the long edge. Stitch across both short ends and the long edge leaving 5″ opening for turning using ½” seam allowance. Grade and trim corners.
  17. Turn right side out. Press. Topstitch around the perimeter.
  18. Wrap ring tab (3) around 2″ square ring.
  19. Position the holster strap face up with the folded edge of the strap to the left.
  20. Place the wallet on the wide end of the holster strap. Pin in place. Sandwich the ring tab (3) between the wallet and the strap midway between zipper and bottom of wallet. Baste the wallet in place. Edgestitch through all layers around pressed edge of wallet.
  21. From top of wallet, measure upward 6 inches. Center cell latch (1) on holster strap face down. Sew across unfinished short end. Trim.
  22. From top of wallet, measure upward 3 inches. Center cell pocket (2) on holster strap. Pin/baste and edgestitch around finished edge being certain to catch the turn opening in the seam stitching.
  23. Apply 2″ slider to narrow end of holster strap. Insert narrow end of strap through the square ring and back on itself to the slider. Tack ends in place.


A handkerchief pointed-hem skirt is flattering to all, but especially for short-legged people because the points break up that horizontal hemline. No pattern is needed to make this skirt style. It is a simple block layout.

One easy way to get that effect is to hem two squares of fashion fabric, each having four points (called a “handkerchief” hem) and layer them for an eight-pointed look.  Experiment with swatches of opaque and transparent fabrics as you design and discover what happens when you overlap two layers of the same colour or harmonizing colours. The top layer could be trimmed shorter than the under layer for a tiered look  and the hemline could be decorated with flat braid trim or fringe, if desired. Be creative!

You will need:

  • 2 ½ yds. of fashion fabric, 45″ wide
  • 1 yd. of waist band elastic, 1″ wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • 10 yds. of flat ribbon braid (optional)


The size of the circular opening should be just big enough to pull over your hips, and can then be tightened with elastic. The circumference of a circle is about 3 times its diameter, so for a person with 44″ hips, a 7″ radius is needed to create the opening. Use the chart provided to make the circle you need. Fold a square piece of paper in half, then half again. From folded point, measure out a radius to create a circle equal to your hip measurement and draw an arc. Cut on this line and open paper flat. Measure the circumference of your template.*


Cut 2 squares of fabric doubled the finished length.
Hem each square with a narrow double-rolled hem.
Apply trim (optional) parallel to hem, several inches from the edge. Miter at corners.
Layer both squares, with bottom layer FACE DOWN and top layer FACE UP, as illustrated for an eight-pointed look.
Place template in center of square and trace out.
Stitch on chalk mark. Cut out center of circle allowing for a ¼” seam allowance.
Turn bottom layer out through the opening so that bottom layer lies flat on top. Press seam flat.
Topstitch around the edge of the circle.
Cut elastic equal to your waist measurement less 3 inches.
Butt the ends of the elastic together and zigzag stitch together.
Sandwich elastic between the 2 layers without twisting the elastic.
Stitch through all layers around the opening to encase the elastic. Make casing slightly wider than the width of elastic.



* TIP: Increase or decrease the circle by 1/8″ to change the overall total circumference measurement by 1/2″.


Confucius say: “Make this bag and good fortune will bestow upon you.”

You will need:

  • ½ yd. of Fashion fabric, 45″ wide
  • ½ yd. of Satin lining, 45″ wide
  • ½ yd. of Fusible interfacing, 22″ wide
  • 1 yd. of Cording
  • Coordinating thread
  • 1 Closed nylon zipper, 12″ long
  • 1 shank button



Cut fashion fabric, lining, and interfacing each 1X.

Cut cording 16″ long 2X; button loop 4″ 1X


  1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of fashion fabric following manufacturer’s directions.
  2. With right sides together, lay lining on top of fashion fabric. Baste together.
  3. On centerline, draw a narrow rectangle equal to the zipper length + 1/8″.
  4. Staystitch around this outline.
  5. Cut down center of rectangle and diagonally into the corners at each end using sharp pointed scissors. Remove basting.
  6. Flip fabrics right side out by inserting lining through slashed opening.
  7. Press seams of opening flat for a neat professional look.
  8. Place zipper face up in center of opening. Pin and baste into place.
  9. Topstitch around the zipper opening. Open zipper.
  10. Add 2 long cord loops, one on each end of bag. Double the cording to form a large strap loop. Attach cut ends side-by-side at end of zipper.  Sew a button loop to on end and attach a shank button on the other (as shown in model). *
  11. With right sides together, fold the fashion fabric in half and match notches. Pin and baste together along curved edge. (Keep lining free).
  12. Stitch curved seam and catch cording in the seam using a ½” seam allowance. Clip and notch seam allowance along curve.
  13. Repeat procedure for lining, leaving a 5″ opening.
  14. Turn bag right side out through zipper opening and slip stitch lining seam closed.
  15. To form the fortune cookie shape, “fold” purse and latch button to the button loop.

* OPTION: You can also make 1 long strap loop to slip through the button loop and draw up on it and omitting the button, if desired.


Leather vests are an ideal fashion in traditional or western design for all seasons. It makes a bold statement when worn as outerwear when the weather is too warm and unforgiving for a jacket. Vests with simple styling and function can replicate your looks and will make you look simply outstanding. So get in this garb and feel the punch in any season.

You will need:

  • cowhide leather
  • kasha lining
  • fusible interfacing
  • coordinating polyester thread
  • double-sided leather tape, 1/4″ wide
  • leather machine needle
  • 4 dome snaps
  • bone turner


Chest – measure just under the arms around the upper body.

Back waist length – measure from nape of neck to waistline.

Back width – measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder blades.


Draw a straight line and locate a point. Label X.

1 from X = back waist length + ½”

2 from 1 = midway between X and 1

3 from 1 = 3″

Square lines across the paper from these points.

4 is located midway between X and 2

5 from 1 = ½”

Join 4 and 5 with a straight line.

6 from 5 = ½”

7 from X = 3 ½”

8 from 7 = 1″

9 is located where line 4-5 intersect line 2

10 from 2 = ½ chest measurement + 3″

Square up and down from 10.

11 from 10 = 1/3 the distance from 2 to 10.

Square up and down from 11

12 is located at intersection of line 1.

13 is located at intersection of 1 and 10.

14 from 2 = ½ back width + ½”

Square up and down from 14.

15 from 14 = 1″

16 from 11 = 1″

17 is midway between 15 and 16.

Square down from 17 to locate 18 and 19.

20 and 21 are ½” on either side of 18.

Shape the side seam as shown.

22 is located at the intersection of X and 10.

23 from 22 = 3 ½”

24 from 10 = 1″

Join 23 and 24 with a straight line.

B from 16 = 6″

C from 11 = 6″

D is located midway between B and C.

Join 8 and D with a straight line.

25 from 8 =  4″

26 from 23 = 8 to 25

Shape armsyce with a deep curve in the front and a shallow curve in the back.

27 is the intersection of 10 and 3.

28 from 27 = 2″

29 from 28 = 2″

At point 12, draw a welt pocket opening 6″ x 1″ as shown.

Shape the front hem as shown.

Trace off the front of the vest, from the shoulder down to the front, and the bottom edge to the side seam. Make a front facing pattern with at least 1 ½ inch width at shoulder and hem.

Trace off welt and double its width. Add seam allowance.



Vest Front – cut 2X

Vest Back – cut 2X

Vest Facing – cut 2X

Front Lining – cut 2X

Back lining – cut 2X

Front interfacing – cut 2X

Welt – cut 2X







  1. Sew the welts onto the front sections of the vest.
  2. Place the vest backs right sides together. Leather tape the back seam. Sew the CB seam. Flatten the seam with a bone turner and clip seam allowance if necessary.
  3. Place the vest back and vest fronts right sides together. Leather tape the back and front together along the shoulders and sides.
  4. Stitch the vest back and fronts together along the shoulders and sides, using 1/2 inch seam allowance. Flatten the seams with a bone turner.
  5. Iron the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the front facing using a low heat setting and presscloth.
  6. Sew the front lining to the front facings.
  7. Sew the lining fronts and back together the same way as the outer portion in step 3 and 4.
  8. Place the vest and the lining right sides together, lining them up along the edges, and use small paper clamps to keep them together. Stitch the vests along the front and neckline, and around the armholes. Stitch along the lower edge of the vest front, leaving the lower edge of the vest backs unstitched.
  9. Turn the vest right side out. Use the bone turner to gently push out the edges of the vest.
  10. Turn the un-sewn edges of the lower back to the inside of the vest, so that the folded edge is even with the rest of the back. Press the folded edges under, and leather tape them together.
  11. Top-stitch along the outside edges of the vest and the armholes. Make sure the lower edge of the back of the vest gets sewn closed in this seam.
  12. Apply the snap domes to the front of the vest following the manufacturer’s directions.

(Note: A man’s vest closure laps from left to right).

Silk charmeuse is pure luxury. It is soft, elegant, and surprisingly versatile. Charmeuse is a medium weight, woven silk with a lustrous appearance, rather like the surface of a pearl. And like the pearl which it resembles, it is an elegant classic!

Try it to create this alluring halter gown… the perfect creation in a super flattering style. Very easy pattern to make, the halter is not fitted, so slips over the head and ties at the nape while a fabric rosette adds interest detail for a romantic touch.

You will need:

  • 3 ½ yds. of charmeuse, 54″ wide
  • 3 ½ yds. of sheer organza, 54″ wide
  • 3 yds. of satin ribbon, 3″ wide
  • Coordinating thread



Fold fabric in half on crossgrain with selvedges aligned. Baste selvedges together with long stitches.

Place centerfront [CF] of pattern on fold. Weight down and cut out fabric 1X on fold.

For rosette, cut pattern 1X on true bias grain


To make rosette, pink curved edge. Fold fabric lengthwise in half. Sew a running stitch along the folded edge and gather tightly. Starting with the narrow end, spiral the fabric onto itself and tack gathered edge as you form the rosette.

Staystitch 1″ either side of notch [●] on centerback seam [CB] using ½” seam allowance. Clip seam allowance to stitching.

With wrong sides together, layer the charmeuse and organza. Pin and baste between ● to CF. Sew seam using ½” seam allowance. Clip a V-notch in seam allowance at CF. Press seam open.

Along curved edge, match edges and sew both layers together using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim seam allowance. Turn right side out through CB seam.

Press seams flat. Baste CB seam together. Topstitch along curved seam through both layers to finish the hem.

Cut ribbon in 2 pieces for strap ties. On one end, fold the ribbon at a 45°angle with a ½” extension.

Align the L-shape to the CB with the garment face up and place the ribbon on top of the finished edge, stopping 3″ from CF. Repeat in reverse on the opposite side of the CF.

Topstitch ribbon ties through all layers of the garment on both edges of the ribbon.

With right sides together, pin and baste CB seam. Stitch back seam using ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.

Crisscross strap ties at a 90° and sew through opposite corners of the layered ribbon. Fold back “point” at CF and tack down. Attach rosette at CF.

TIP: Check this link for working with charmeuse and organza fabrics.