Search Results for 'tiered skirt'

Featured: Layered 3-tier skirt by ASOS

A three tiered/layered skirt that is flirty and so sexy.

You will need:

  • 2 yds of Fashion fabric, 45″ wide
  • 1/4 yds. of Fusible interfacing, 45″ wide
  • 1 closed skirt zipper, 5″ long
  • 2 sets of hook & eyes, size 0
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper
  • String
  • Push pin
  • Tracing wheel
  • Tape measure



Measure your waist and use R from chart to draw an arc from intersecting right angle. (90°)

For each tier, add 5 inch intervals to R. eg. R + 5″; R + 10″; R + 15″

To create the arc, use string and pencil as a compass and measure the string length equal to the tier lengths above. Attach string to push pin anchored at intersection (●). Holding string taut, draw arc from horizontal line to vertical line. Repeat with new lengths for each tier.

Trace off each layer separately on paper and add ½” hem and seam allowances.

For waistband, measure a line equal to your waist plus 1 ½”. Draw a parallel line 3″ next to it and join the ends of both lines. Add ½” seam allowance to perimeter.

Grainlines are parallel to horizontal lines of draft on all pieces.


Cut each tier 2x self in fashion fabric. *

Cut waistband 1X self in fashion fabric.

Cut waist interfacing 1X fusible in Pellon®


  1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of waistband piece, following manufacturer’s directions.
  2. Turn under ½” along one long edge and press.
  3. Stay-stitch waistline on each tier piece from side seam to center. Neaten raw edges of side seams with a seam finish.
  4. Layer tiers in pairs with right sides together. Pin/baste side seams, leaving 5 ½” open at waist on left-hand side. Sew seams and press open.
  5. On each tier, hem bottom with a ¼” double rolled hem. Press.
  6. Layer tiers one on top of one another (right sides out) and match up waistline and side seams. Baste together.
  7. Apply zipper on left-hand side, from waistline to bottom of top tier, using center slot application.
  8. With right side of waistband to wrong side of skirt, pin waistband piece to skirt’s waistline, extending waistband 1 ½” beyond zipper on back portion. Also allow for ½” seam allowance on each end of waistband piece. Baste waistband in place following stay-stitching. Sew waist seam.
  9. Press under seam allowances on each end of waistband and fold waistband in half, aligning pressed edge with machine stitching. Pin/baste. Edge-stitch around perimeter of waistband.
  10. Handstitch hook and eye sets to extension of waistband.

* If you wish a crinoline for this skirt (like that one featured on the model), use the third layer pattern piece and cut it 1-inch longer. Cut 2X in netting. Join side seams using a French seam technique and leave 5″ slit opening on left-hand side at waist. Overcast or bind waistline of crinoline. Sew a narrow “india” tape to the waist and leave 12-15 inches “loose” ties on either side of the slit opening.


oscarFeatured: Oscar de la Renta Tiered Gown

Among the occasion gowns, a tiered empire-waisted number is always a standout with its elegant double-ruffled flounce. In coral silk taffeta, it’s unmistakably Oscar.

You will need:

  • Approx. 4 ½ – 5  yds. [4.2 – 4.6 m] of fashion fabric, 60” [152 cm] wide
  • 1 dress zipper, approx. 15” [30 cm] long
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper


Bust – measure around the fullest part of breast, just under the arm.

Chest – measure around upper torso, just under the breast.

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso, just above navel.

Back width – measure across shoulder blades from armhole to armhole.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waistline.

Dart Size = 2 ¾” [7 cm].  (This is an average bust dart amount for a B-cup. More or less darting may be taken, if desired.)


bodice draft 2

Bodice Section:

Draw 2 lines at a 90° angle from point A.

A-B = ¾” [20mm].

B-C = back waist length.

Square across from C. (waistline)

B-D = half of B-C. (bustline)

D-E = quarter of B-C.

D-F = half of bust measurement.

Square up and down from F to locate G and H.

D-I = half of back width

F-J = half of back width + half of dart + ½” [12 mm].

K is located midway between I and J.

Square up from K to located L.

M is located at the intersection from J.

N is located at the intersection on the centerfront line.

F-O = 2 times distance of N-F.

Square across from O.

Square down from K to locate P at intersection.

G-Q = 3” [75 mm].

Q-R = dart size.

F-S = half of line F-J.

S-T = ½’ [12 mm].

Connect Q to T with a straight line and extend to waistline.

Connect R to T with a straight line and extend to waistline.

D-U = quarter of C-D.

Connect M to U with a straight line.

H-V = half of waist measurement less darting.

Join U to V with a straight line.

Place set square on line U-V and draw a line at a 90° angle to connect to P.

At M and P, smooth the chevron with a curve to blend the lines together.

Place set square on baseline and square a line to L. (side seam)

Shoulder strap front placement is located midway between side seam and dart. (■)

Shoulder strap back placement from side seam equals front amount + 1” [25 mm].

To complete draft, cut through the center of the bottom dart and close top dart to release it into bottom dart, pivoting at T. (see silhouette in diagram above)

Fitting Tip: Measure the bottom edge of the bodice pattern and compare to the chest measurement. Adjust the dart with the difference, if necessary.

Grainlines are parallel to CF and CB.

Add ½” [12 mm] seam allowance to bodice pattern. (Cut front pattern on fold)

For shoulder strap, draw a rectangle = back waist length X 5” [12.5 cm].

Skirt Section:

sheath draft

Measure bottom edge of bodice, less darts . This amount is X.

For the upper tier, draw a rectangle.

Make the CF = ½  X – 1” [25 mm] x back waist length + 3” [75 mm].

Make the CB = ½  X + 1” [25 mm] x back waist length + 7” [180 mm].

Connect the bottom with a diagonal line and divide the pattern.

For the lower tier (front & back), draw a rectangle = 2X x back waist length + 3” [75mm].

For the ruffled flounce, draw a rectangle = 2X x back waist length + 1” [25 mm].

Grainlines are parallel to CF and CB.  (Cut upper tier front pattern on the fold).

Note: Seam allowance (1/2″ or 12 mm) is included in skirt section.

Fitting Tip: The finished length may be adapted by adding or subtracting equal amounts from the top edge of the tier panels. Take gown length measurement while wearing evening shoes.



Shoulder Straps – cut 2X self

Bodice Front – cut 2X self

Bodice Back – cut 4X self

Upper Tier Front – cut 1X self

Upper Tier Back – cut 2X self

Lower Tier – cut 2X self

Flounce Ruffle – cut 4X self


1. Make 2 shoulder straps. With right sides together (RST), fold strap piece in half lengthwise and sew along long open edge. Press seam open. Turn strap RIGHT SIDE OUT. Center seam in middle of width and press flat. Set aside.


2. Make flounce. With RST, sew ruffle panels together along short ends of rectangle to make a “loop”. Press seams open.


With RST, fold the loop in half aligning the raw edges and matching the seams. Sew around the loop, leaving a 6” [15 cm] opening for turning out. Turn flounce RIGHT SIDE OUT and fold 2” [50mm] from seam. Press gently along fold. Set aside.


3. Sew darts on front bodice pieces.


4. Sew bodice backs to bodice front at side seams. Press seams open.


5. Pin/baste shoulder straps to bodice at ■. (You may need to adjust its length).


6. With RST, sew the bodice pieces together along the top edge, ensuring to catch shoulder straps in the stitching. With inner bodice (lining) FACE UP, under-stitch along top edge of bodice. Turn under seam allowance on lower edge of inner bodice and press flat. Set aside.cornerb


7. With RST, sew upper tier backs to upper tier front, matching at side seams and CB seam from bottom of zipper opening. Press seams open.


Turn under top edge of upper tier by 1 ½” [40 mm] and gently press fold.

With RST, stitch a diagonal seam at each corner of zipper opening. Trim excess away and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Set aside.

8. With RST, sew lower tier panels at side seams and press seams open. Turn under top edge of lower tier by 1 ½” [40 mm] and gently press fold. Hem bottom edge with a ¼” [6 mm] double-rolled hem finish.ruffle


9. With lower tier and flounce FACE UP, attach flounce to bottom edge of lower tier. Gather along the horizontal seam of the flounce and ruffle the top edge. Distribute the gathers evenly along the bottom edge of the lower tier and stitch through all the layers 2” [50 mm] from fold. ( gathering ratio = 2:1)


10. With upper and lower tiers FACE UP, attach lower tier to bottom edge of upper tier matching at the side seams. Gather 1” [25 mm] from the top fold of the lower tier and ruffle the top edge. Distribute the gathers evenly along the bottom edge of the upper tier and stitch through all the layers 1” [25 mm] from fold. (ratio = 2:1). From inside the garment, stitch the ½” [12 mm] seam allowance of the lower tier to bottom edge of upper tier.


11. With upper tier and bodice FACE UP, attach upper tier to bottom edge of bodice matching at the CF, side seams, and CB seam. Gather 1” [25 mm] from the top fold of the upper tier and ruffle the top edge. Distribute the gathers evenly along the bottom edge of the bodice and stitch through all the layers 1” [25 mm] from fold. (gathering ratio = 2:1). Press seam upward.


12. Insert dress zipper into CB seam from top of bodice using the center slot application.


13. Align bottom edge of inner bodice to stitching line and match at seams. Slip-stitch along bottom edge of inner bodice and along zipper tape.

A handkerchief pointed-hem skirt is flattering to all, but especially for short-legged people because the points break up that horizontal hemline. No pattern is needed to make this skirt style. It is a simple block layout.

One easy way to get that effect is to hem two squares of fashion fabric, each having four points (called a “handkerchief” hem) and layer them for an eight-pointed look.  Experiment with swatches of opaque and transparent fabrics as you design and discover what happens when you overlap two layers of the same colour or harmonizing colours. The top layer could be trimmed shorter than the under layer for a tiered look  and the hemline could be decorated with flat braid trim or fringe, if desired. Be creative!

You will need:

  • 2 ½ yds. of fashion fabric, 45″ wide
  • 1 yd. of waist band elastic, 1″ wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • 10 yds. of flat ribbon braid (optional)


The size of the circular opening should be just big enough to pull over your hips, and can then be tightened with elastic. The circumference of a circle is about 3 times its diameter, so for a person with 44″ hips, a 7″ radius is needed to create the opening. Use the chart provided to make the circle you need. Fold a square piece of paper in half, then half again. From folded point, measure out a radius to create a circle equal to your hip measurement and draw an arc. Cut on this line and open paper flat. Measure the circumference of your template.*


Cut 2 squares of fabric doubled the finished length.
Hem each square with a narrow double-rolled hem.
Apply trim (optional) parallel to hem, several inches from the edge. Miter at corners.
Layer both squares, with bottom layer FACE DOWN and top layer FACE UP, as illustrated for an eight-pointed look.
Place template in center of square and trace out.
Stitch on chalk mark. Cut out center of circle allowing for a ¼” seam allowance.
Turn bottom layer out through the opening so that bottom layer lies flat on top. Press seam flat.
Topstitch around the edge of the circle.
Cut elastic equal to your waist measurement less 3 inches.
Butt the ends of the elastic together and zigzag stitch together.
Sandwich elastic between the 2 layers without twisting the elastic.
Stitch through all layers around the opening to encase the elastic. Make casing slightly wider than the width of elastic.



* TIP: Increase or decrease the circle by 1/8″ to change the overall total circumference measurement by 1/2″.