shirt1How about an adult version of “connect-the-dots” to create some men’s wear? Sometimes known as a tropical shirt, Hawaiian or aloha shirt, this casual type shirt is loose fitting, short-sleeved and features a convertible collar with a rever. Make it up in a border print or traditional floral print fabric.

Take the following measurements of your man: chest, neck, arm length and finished length (usually hip level).

 

Note: 3/8″ seam allowance is included in draft

Working Scale = 1/3 chest measurement + 6″ (15.5 cm)

example: for a men’s medium size the scale = 42/3 + 6 = 20

PLOT EACH POINT & CONNECT-THE-DOTS

Mark point 0 and square both ways from it.

1 from 0 = ½ scale + 1″ (25 mm)

2 from 0 = ¼ scale

3 from 0 = 1/8 scale

4 from 0 = full length (30″/ 76 cm)

5 from 4 = 1 ½” (40 mm) for turn up.

Square all points across the paper.

shirt draft2

6 from 0 = 1/6 scale + 3/8″ (1 cm); square up to 7.

7 from 6 = 1 ¼” (32 mm)

8 from 1 = 1/3 scale + 2 ½” (65mm); square up to locate 9 and 10.

11 from 10 = 1″ (25mm)

12 squared from 11 = 1″ (25 mm); join 7 to 12.

13 from 1 = 2/3 of half the chest measurement + 2″ (50mm)

14 from 1 = ½ of chest measurement + 2 ¾” (70 mm)

15 from 14 is midway between 13 and 14; square up to 16.

16 from 15 = ½ scale + 2 ¼” (58 mm); join 16 to 10.

17 is the distance between 7 and 12 – ¼” (6 mm) and is located on line 16-10.

Join 17 to 13; 18 from 17 = 1 ¼” (32 mm) and is located on line 17-13.

19 is midway 8 and 13; square down to locate 21 at hemline.

20 from 19 = 1 ¼” (32mm)shirt2

Shape armhole as shown with French curve ruler.

22 from 21 = 1″(25mm)

Join 20 to 22 for forepart side seam.

23 is located at intersection of hemline and centerfront (CF) line.

24 from 23 = ¾” (20 mm); shape front hem from 24 to 22 with 90° corners as shown.

25 is located at intersection of lines squared from 16 and 14.

26 from 16 = 1/12 scale + ¾” (20mm)

27 from 25 = 1/6 scale

Connect 26 and 27 and continue 1 ½” (40 mm) more to locate 28.

29 from 16 = ¾” (20 mm) for collar stand and creaseline of rever.

30 and 32 are each 1 ½” (40 mm) from CF line (overlap extension) as shown.

31 from 30 = 1″ (25 mm); join 31 to 29 to indicate roll-line of rever.

33 from 27 = ½” (13mm) for collar step.

Fold along line 28-32; trace out front shoulder, front neckline and front hem.

Shape self-facing as shown, making it 3″ 75 mm) wide at hem and blending uo to the shoulder for 1 ½” (40 mm). Note: The gray-shaded area should be interfaced.

Grainline is parallel to CB and CF lines. The CB may be cut on the fold.

Convertible Collarcollar draft

Point 33 is the collar step for the collar and rever.

Trace out front neckline and rever, front shoulder, and roll line.

0 is located at intersection of roll line and shoulder

1 from 0 = back neck measurement (line 0-7 on body draft)

2 from 1 = 2″ (50mm)

3 from 0 = ½” (6 mm)

X is located where roll line crosses front neckline.

4 from X = 1 ½” (40 mm)

Shape 4 to 2 through point 3 with a French curve ruler.

5 from 3 = 1″ (25 mm)

Join 5 to 2 with a dash line and square on point 2 to locate 6 and 7.

6 from 2 = 2 ½” (65 mm)

7 from 2 = 1″ (25 mm)

Join 6 to 4 passing through point 3 with a French curve ruler.

To locate 8, swing an arc from 28 which is 2 1/8″ (55 mm) and another of equal size from 33.

Connect 8 to 33 and 8-7 with a slight curve. Then blend line 7-3-4. into point X.

Trace out as a separate piece for the top and under collar with the line 6-7 along a folded piece of paper.

Note: The under collar should be interfaced.

Grainline is parallel to line 6-7.

Short Sleeves*

* This may vary due to styling. Measure the circumference of the armhole from your draft.

sleeve draft

Fold paper in half lengthwise.

Plot point 0 on folded edge.

1 from 0 = 1/6 armhole circumference + 1″ (25 mm)

2 from 0 = half of arm length.

3 from 2 = 2″ (50 mm)

4 from 0 = ½ armhole circumference (as it falls on line 1)

5 from 3 = 1/3 scale.

Divide 0-4 into 3 equal parts to locate 6 and 7.

8 from 7 = 3/8″ (10 mm)

9 from 7 = ¾” (20 mm)

10 from 6 = 5/8″ (17 mm)

Shape front sleeve cap 0-8-6-4 with a French curve ruler.

Shape back sleeve cap 0-9-10-4 with a French curve ruler.

Trace out the sleeve and the sleeve cap back portion.

Fold along line 3-5 and trace out bottom facing as shown.

Unfold paper for full short sleeve pattern piece

Note: grainline is located on line 0-2.