Salvatore Ferragamo cuffed shortsFeatured: Salvatore Ferragamo

All the spring/summer collections had them on the runway: Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Jacobs, Victoria’s Secret, Diane Von Furstenberg, Chloe, Salvatore Ferragamo, D & G. All showed cuffed shorts in a variety of colours and patterns, lengths, and silhouettes. Design a pair for yourself with this easy pattern-draft.

You with need:

  • 1 pant zipper, 6” [15 cm] long
  • 2 sets of pant hook & bar, ¾” [20mm] dia.
  • approx. 1 ½ yds. [1.4 m] of bottom-weight fashion fabric, 45”[114 cm] wide *
  • ½ yd. [0.5 m] of pocketing fabric, 45”[114 cm] wide
  • ¼ yd. [0.3 m] of fusible interfacing, 45” [114 cm] wide
  • coordinating thread
  • kraft paper

* yardage required is dependent upon finished length.

MEASUREMENTS

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso, just above the navel.

Hip – measure around fullest part of seat, about 8” [20 cm] below waistline.

Rise – measure vertically from waistline to top of chair while seated

Outseam – measure vertically from waist to finished hemline.

For example, on the featured model by Salvatore Ferragamo, the rise = 10″ and the outseam = 14″.

PATTERN

shorts draft

Draw a straight line across top of kraft paper. Label point 1 as shown.

2 from 1 = outseam + 7” [180 mm] less waistband (- 3″/75 mm).

3 from 1 = rise measurement minus 3” [75 mm].

4 from 1 = 5” [127 mm].

Square out across paper from all points.

5 from 4 = quarter of the hip measurement + 1″ [25 mm].

6 from 4 = quarter of the hip measurement + 1″ 25 mm].

Square up from 5 and 6 to locate 7 and 8 at the intersection of lines.

9 from 5 = 3 ½” [90 mm].

10 from 6 =  5” [125 mm].

Square down from 9 to locate 11 and 12 at the intersection of lines.

Draw a deep curve connecting 5 to 12, as shown.

Square down from 10 to locate 13 and 14 at the intersection of lines.

15 from 14 = ¾” [20 mm].

Draw a gentle curve from 6 to 15, as shown.

Divide the distance between 1 and 8 into 3 equal parts. Label points 16 and 17.

Draw waist darts at 16 and 17; make each dart = 1” wide X 4” long [25 mm X 11 mm].

18 from 1 = 2 ⅜” [60 mm].

19 from 8 = 2 ⅜” [60 mm].

Square down from 18 and square across from 19 to locate 20.

21 from 19 = 5” [127 mm].

22 from 20 = 5” [127 mm].

Square down from 20 and 22 to locate 23 at the intersection.

Draw a patch pocket and curve the bottom corners (23).

24 from 1 = 2″ [50mm].

25 from 24 = 1” [25 mm].

26 from 25 = 2 ⅜” [60mm].

27 from 1 = 5 ½” [140  mm].

28 from 27 = 1” [25 mm].

Draw a straight line parallel to line 24-27 from 25 to 28.

Square down from 26 to locate 29 just above the crotchline (3).

30 from 7 = 2” [50 mm].

X is located 4” [100 mm] from 11 and 13.

The grainline is parallel to line 1-2.

Waistband

Draw a straight line.

32 from 31 = waist measurement.

33 from 32 = 6” [152 mm].

Squaring 34 from 31 = 6” [152 mm].

35 from 34 = 2” [50 mm].

36 from 31 = 2” [50 mm].

37 = ½ of line 35-36.

38 = ½ of line 32-33.

Join 37 and 38 with a straight line (foldline).

Grainline can be width or length-wise in direction.

Pocket Bag

Trace off from front leg points 1-27-28-3-29-26-25-24-1 onto additional paper.

Trace off from front leg points  24-27-28-3-29-25-24 onto additional paper.

Flip one of the tracings and glue to the other along line 26-29.

Grainline is parallel to line 26-29 (foldline).

Pocket Facing

Trace off from front leg points 1-27-28-25-24-1.

Grainline is parallel to line 1-28.

Patch Pocket

Trace off pocket from back leg.

Add a 1” [25 mm] turning above line 20-22 for opening.

Grainline is parallel to line 22-23.

Fly & Fly Facing

Trace off CF seam of front leg points 5-7-30.

Draw a parallel line 2” [50 mm] to the CF line from point 30.

Shape the bottom to taper the facing, as shown.

Grainline is parallel to CF line (5-7).

* Add seam allowance to all pattern pieces.

CUTTING

layFront – cut 2X self

Back – cut 2X self

Patch Pocket – cut 2X self

Waistband – cut 1X self

Pocket Facing – cut 2X self

Pocket Bag – cut 2X pocketing

Fly & Fly Facing – cut 3X self

Waistband Interfacing – cut 1X fusible

ASSEMBLY

1. Iron fusible interfacing onto back (wrong side) of waistband piece following manufacturer’s directions. Fuse a narrow strip (1”) of interfacing across top of each patch pocket. Set aside.

 

pocket facing2. Finish seams on all cut pieces with pinking shears or overlock machine.

 

3. Lay the pocket bag piece FACE DOWN and place the pocket facing FACE UP in the upper square corner. Sew the pocket facing in place with a narrow zig-zag stitch. Repeat for opposite pocket.

 

4. Align and match slanted edge of pocket bag to front leg of shorts with RIGHT SIDES facing together. Sew slanted edge. Clip along seam allowance and turn pocketing to WRONG SIDE. Press seam and topstitch. Repeat for opposite front leg.

 

zipper5. Stitch a French seam along bottom edge of pocket bag. Begin by folding bottom of pocket bag in half with WRONG SIDES facing together. Stitch half the width of the seam allowance. Trim seam allowance close to stitching line. Turn bag RIGHT SIDE OUT and press seam. Stitch remainder of seam allowance. Baste side of pocket bag to side seam of shorts. Repeat on other pocket bag.

 

6. With RST, sew curved edge of fly facing. Grade seam allowance and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Press seam and topstitch. With the fly facing FACE UP and the curved edge to your left, stitch the zipper FACE UP to the straight edge of the fly facing. Set aside.

 

zipper27. With RST, sew fly to right front leg. Grade seam allowance and press seam to one side. Under-stitch fly.

8. With RST, align and match front pieces along CF line and crotch. Stitch from bottom of fly to within 2” of the inseam.

9. With the fronts FACE UP, sew the fly facing FACE DOWN to the left front leg. (A) This will encase the zipper into the CF seam. Flip the zipper FACE UP and edge-stitch along the zipper teeth.

 

10. Lay the front of the shorts FACE UP. Align the CF line and smooth out the fly opening. Baste the fly opening shut. Once completed, fold the fronts in half with the left front leg on top. Pin back the fly facing to reveal the zipper FACE DOWN on the fly. Stitch the zipper tape to the fly. (B) Baste curved edge of fly to left front. Set aside.

 

11. On back section, sew up waist shaping darts.

12. Turn under 1” [25mm] of top edge of patch pockets and stitch down in place. Turn under and press seam allowance on perimeter of pockets.

13. Place patch pockets FACE UP on center of back pieces and align over darting 2” [50mm] from the top edge. Topstitch in place.

 

14. With RST, align and match back and front at the side seams. Baste/pin raw edges together along the outseam. Sew sides, ensuring to catch pocket bag in the seaming. Grade seam allowance and press seam towards the back section. With garment FACE UP, edge-stitch along the sideseam on the back section.

 

15. With RST, align and match back and front at the inseam. Baste/pin raw edges together along the inseam of each leg. Sew inseams and press seam open.

 

crotch16. Pull one leg RIGHT SIDE OUT and drop down into other leg. Align and match up inner leg seam and CB seam. Baste/pin crotch seam. Sew seam from bottom of fly to top edge of back section (in a U-shape). Turn garment RIGHT SIDE OUT and set aside.

 

17. Turn under seam allowance on one long edge of waistband and press flat. Fold waistband in half , with RST and stitch up short ends, allowing for seam allowance. Trim corners and grade. Turn waistband RIGHT SIDE OUT.

 

pleat18. Pin raw edge of  waistband FACE UP to inside edge of garment’s waistline, allowing for 2” [50mm] extension on left-hand side of waistband. Ease in waistline onto waistband. Fold a decorative pleat on front legs approximately 2” [50mm] from pocket opening to take up excess fabric in the shorts. (For an easier fit, allow 1 – 2 inches of ease in total on the body of the shorts.) Baste across top of pocket bag and pleat. Stitch waistband to waistline, ensuring to catch top of front pocket in the seaming. Grade seam allowance and turn up into waistband. Align and match folded edge of waistband to machine-stitching on FACE SIDE of garment. Edge-stitch the waistband to the garment.

 

pleat219. With garment FACE UP, sew a J-stitch to secure the fly. Begin with a bar-tack at the bottom of the fly opening and topstitch the J-stitch following the basting thread markings up to the top, stitching through the waistband.

 

20. On each cuff bottom, turn up a 4” [100 mm] hem. Stitch down in place.

21. Fold up 3” [75mm] to create a cuff. Align the cuff at the inseam and outseam; and secure the cuff by the “stitch-in-the-ditch” method.

 

22. Hand-stitch sets of hooks and bars onto the waistband, in tandem just above the zipper.

Design Tip: Add belt loops to waistband to allow for your favourite belt.

Dry Max Hooded VestFeatured: Dry Max Hooded Vest

Chill in a unisex hoodie vest.

You will need:

  • Sweat suit fleece *
  • Rib binding *
  • 1 separating zipper (equal to CF less 1” [25mm])
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

* yardage will depend upon finished length.

The featured hoodie vest from Australian label  Black and Blue is 28” long [71 cm].

MEASUREMENTS

Bust/Chest – measure around fullest part of upper torso,  just under the arms.

Hip/Seat – measure around the fullest part of seat, 9” [23 cm] below waistline.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waistline.

Shoulder – measure from side of neck to socket joint of arm.

Finished Length – measure vertically from nape of neck to desired length.

PATTERN

hoodie draft

BACK SECTION

Square 2 lines from A at 90°.

A-B = 1” [25mm]

B-C = finished length + 1” [25mm]

B-D = ½  back waist length

Square across all points.

D-E = ½ bust or hip (whichever is greater) + 1” [25mm]

Square up and down from E to locate F and G.

D-H = 1/4 bust or hip (whichever is greater)

Square down from H to locate I.

B-J = 3 ⅜” [85 mm]

J-K = 1” [25mm]

Connect B to K with a shallow curve as shown.

K-L = shoulder length

L-M = 1 ⅜” [35mm]

Draw a construction line from M to H and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label points N and O.

Draw the back armhole with a smooth curve from M to H, passing through points 1 ⅜” [35mm] from N and 1 ½” [37mm] from O.

FRONT SECTION

F-P = 3 ½” [90mm]

F-Q = 3 ¼” [82mm]

Draw a construction line from P to Q and divide it into 2 equal parts. Label point R.

Draw the front neckline from P to Q passing through a point ¾” [20mm] from R.

Q-S = shoulder length

S-T = 1 ⅜” [35mm]

Draw a construction line from H to T and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label points U and V.

Draw the front armhole with a smooth curve from H to T, passing through points 2” [50mm] from U and 2 ¼” [57mm] from V.

G-W = ¾” [20mm]

Join I to W with a smooth curve. The corner at W is a 90°angle.

For the front facing, draw a line 3” [75mm] parallel to centerfront tapering to 1 ½” [37mm] at the shoulder-neck. Trace off the facing onto additional paper.

For the pocket, W-X = 10” [25.5 cm]

W-Y = 10” [25.5 cm]

Square up from Y; Y-Z = 5” [12.7 cm]

Draw a line from Z to intersection on facing point.

Trace off the pocket onto additional paper.

HOOD SECTION

Square 2 line from 1 at 90°.

1-2 = 13’ [33 cm]

1-3 = 10” [25.5 cm]

Square across from 2 and square up from 3 to locate 4 at the intersection.

3-5 = 3” [76 cm]

3-6 = front neckline mmt. + back neckline mmt. from body draft.

Draw a construction line from 5 to 6 and divide it into 2 equal parts. Label point 7.

Draw the neckline with a smooth curve between 5 and 6, passing through a point ½” [12mm] from point 7.

1-8 = 7 ¾” [19.8 cm]

2-9 = 6 ¼” [16 cm]

Join 8 to 9 with a curved line passing through a point 2 ¼” [57mm] from point 2.

For hood facing, 4-10 = 2” [5 cm]

5-11 = 2” [5 cm]

Join 10 to 11 and trace off neckline between 5 to 11.

Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces except hemline.

Grainlines are parallel to CF and CB.

hoodie layCUTTING

Back – cut 1X self on fold

Front – cut 2X self

Front Facing – cut 2X self

Hood – cut 2X self

Pocket – cut 2X self

Cut rib binding to fit.

Design Tip: Use a contrast colour for the hood and rib binding

ASSEMBLY

  1. Trim pocket opening with ribbed binding.
  2. With pockets up-side down and FACE DOWN on CF, stitch top of pocket to fronts.
  3. Flip pockets FACE UP and align with bottom edge of fronts. From the inside of the pocket, stitch short side from pocket opening to hem to the fronts. Baste the rest of the pocket to the fronts.
  4. With fronts FACE UP, stitch zipper (separated) face down to CF and 1” [25mm] from bottom edge.
  5. Align and match front facing to zippered edge with right sides facing together. Stitch facing to CF and 1” [25mm] from bottom edge. Trim bulk from bottom of facing at the hem and turn right side out.
  6. Attach fronts to back at shoulders. Stitch shoulder seam and press open.
  7. BINDINGTrim armholes with ribbed binding.
  8. With right sides together (RST), match side seams and sew fronts to back. Press seam towards back. Trim seam allowance or overlock and topstitch on FACE SIDE along the seam on back section.
  9. Turn up hem 1” [25mm] and press. Open fold and re-fold raw edge to crease line. Fold up remainder of hem. Stitch down.
  10. On FACE SIDE, topstitch hem edge including the front facing.
  11. Align and match neck of front facing to neck of fronts. Secure front facing at the shoulder seam.
  12. With fronts FACE UP, topstitch CF along zipper.
  13. With RST, align and match top and CB of hood. Stitch center seam. Press to one side. Trim seam allowance or overlock and topstitch on FACE SIDE along hood’s center seam.
  14. Neaten facing edge of hood with a seam finish or overlock.
  15. With RST, align and pin/baste neckline of hood to body’s neckline. Wrap hood facing around the CF edge and back along neckline. Stitch hood to neckline. Trim and grade seam allowance.
  16. Flip hood facing FACE UP and turn facing to inside the hood. Edge-stitch open edge of hood facing to the hood.
  17. On FACE SIDE, topstitch along neckline seam.
hooded cowlFeatured: Missoni Hooded Scarves

For Fall ’09, Missoni is staying true to the label’s knitwear traditions and producing plenty of fabulous pieces including an abundance of hooded scarves. Design one up for yourself and make use of that fabulous knit remnant you have been saving for something special or go big as featured here.

 

You will need:

  • ¾  yd. [0.7 m] of stable knit fashion fabric, 60” [152 cm] wide
  • Matching thread

 

DIMENSIONS: approx. 30” long x 12” wide  [76 cm x 30 cm]

 

PATTERN & CUTTING

This is a patternless design (a simple block draft). You can plot it directly onto your fabric but you will need to straighten the cut ends of your fabric before you are going to cut. The corners should be 90°.  The rectangle should be about 60 inches  long and 25 inches wide [152 cm x 63.5 cm].  Once that is done, you are ready to cut out the shape.

 

Fold the fabric into quarters both vertically and horizontally and align the raw edges (fig.1). At the “open” corner, measure 12” [30.5 cm] from the corner and mark location with a pin (■).

Draw an arc using a circular template (I used a large pie plate) with tailor’s chalk at the corner.

Cut through all 4 layers and remove the excess fabric.

cowl draft

ASSEMBLY

 

Open the fabric flat and refold it in the long direction with the right sides facing together.

Stitch the curved ends together between the ■ using a ¼” [6mm] seam allowance. (fig.2)

 

Open the fabric as a “tube” and refold it in the narrow direction with the right sides facing together. Align the sewn seam and match up the open raw edges. Clip the seam allowance at the ■, if necessary.

 

Stitch around the open edge of the loop using a ¼” [6 mm] seam allowance and leave a 6” [15 cm] opening to turn out. (fig.3) Turn the garment right side out and slip-stitch the opening closed.

 

Show-Toppers-Wrap-Top-With-Tie_slideshow_imageFeatured: Wrap Top by NY&Company

This wrap top draft by NY&Company is a flattering style for all shapes and sizes. A deep V-neck combined with a fluid fabric is forgiving to all body types.

You will need:

  • approx. 2 ¼ yds. [2m] of fashion fabric, 45” [115 cm] wide
  • approx. ½ yd. [0.5 m] fusible interfacing
  • coordinating thread
  • kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure around fullest part of chest, just below the arms.

Waist – measure narrowest part of torso, just above navel.

Shoulder – measure from neck to ball joint of arm.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waist.

Sleeve length – measure vertically from shoulder point to wrist.

Bicep – measure the fullest part of the upper arm.

PATTERN wrapdraft BACK SECTION

Square 2 lines from A at a 90° angle on the paper.

A-B = 1” [2.5cm]

B-C = back waist length

D = ½ of B-C

C-E = 6” [15.25 cm] Square all points across paper.

D-F = ¼ of bust + ¼” [0.6 cm]

Square down from F to locate G.

H is located on line square from C; H is ⅜” [1 cm] from line F-G.

Shape side seam from F to G, passing through point H as shown.

I is located midway C and H.

Square up and down from I to locate J and K.

I-J = 6” [15.25 cm] Draw a waist suppression dart from J to K; dart width at I = 1 ½” [3.75 cm] dart width at K = ½” [1.25 cm]

A-L = 3” [7.6 cm]

L-M = shoulder length

M-N = 1 ¼” [3.2 cm]

Join L to N.

Draw a construction line from N to F and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label points O and P.

Shape the back armhole from N to F, passing through points 1” [2.5 cm] from O and 1 ½” [3.75 cm] from P as shown.

Grainline is parallel to CB.

FRONT SECTION

Square 2 lines from (a) at a 90° angle on the paper.

a-b = A-E

a-c = A-D

Square all points across paper.

a-d = 9 ½” [24 cm]

Square down from (d) to locate (e) and (f).

c-g = ¼ of bust + 7” [17.75 cm]

d-h = shoulder length

h-i = 1 ⅜” [3.5 cm]

Join (d) to (i).

Draw a construction line from (i) to (g) and divide it into 3 equal parts. Ladel (j) and (k).

Shape the front armhole from (i) to (g) passing through points 1 ⅜” [3.5 cm] from (j) and 2” [5 cm] from (k) as shown.

f-l = 2 ¼” [5.7 cm]

i-m = 5 ¾” [14.7 cm]

m-n = 1” [2.5 cm]

Join (n) to (l).

Square down from (g).

g-o = C-D Join (n) to (o).

e-p = 1 ¼” [3.25 cm]

Square down from (p).

p-q = 2” [5 cm].

Join (l) and (q).

Square a line from (o) across to locate (r) at intersection.

Draw a waist suppression dart  from (l) to (q); dart width at (r) = 1 ¾” [4.5 cm] and dart width at (l) = 2 ⅜” [6 cm] as shown.

c-s = 5 ¼” [13.2 cm] c-t = c-s Join (s) to (t).

Draw a construction line from (d) to (s) and divide it into 3 equal parts. Label the top third, (u).

Shape a smooth curve from (d) to (s) passing through a point 1 ⅜” [3.5 cm] from (u).

b-v = 1” [2.5 cm].

Shape a smooth curve from (f) to (v).

Grainline is parallel to line d-f.

SLEEVE SECTION

aa-bb = 1/2 of sleeve length – 2” [5 cm].

aa-cc = 5 ½” [14 cm]

cc-dd = ½ bicep + ⅜” [1 cm}

cc-ee = ½ bicep + ¾” [2 cm]

Draw a construction line from aa to dd and ee and divide each line into 3 equal parts. Label ff, gg, hh, and ii.

Shape the front sleeve cap with a smooth curve from aa to gg and continue to dd passing through a point ½” [1.25 cm] from ff, as shown.

Shape the back sleeve cap with a smooth curve from aa passing through at point ⅝” [1.6 cm] from hh to ii and continue with a shallow curve to ee, as shown.

bb-jj = ½ bicep

bb-kk = ½ bicep

Join dd to kk and ee to jj.

Draw a 1” [2.5 cm] turn up parallel to jj-kk.

Grainline is parallel to aa-bb.

COLLAR SECTION

Fold paper in half and place CB of back section on foldline.

Trace off back neckline and shoulder on to  paper. Align front and back shoulders at L and trace off front neckline.

Square up from L. L-1 = A-L

Square across from 1 to locate 2.

2-3 = 3” [7.6 cm]

Draw 3-4-5 parallel to the neckline.

Grainline is parallel to centerback, B-5.

TIE SECTION

1-2 = 2” [5 cm]

2-3 = 2” [5 cm]

1-4 = 2 x waist

3-5 = 1-4

5-6 = 2-3

4-7 = 4-6

5-8 = 5-6

Join 6 to 7 and 8.

Grainline is parallel to line 2-6.

Note: Add ¾” [2 cm] seam allowance to perimeter of pattern pieces except for sleeve bottoms.

Add ⅜” [1 cm] seam allowance to tie pattern piece.

lay 1CUTTING

Back – cut 1X self on fold

Fronts – cut 2X self

Sleeves – cut 2X self

Collar – cut 2X self

Ties – cut 2X self

Collar Interfacing – cut 1X fusible on fold

ASSEMBLY

  1. Iron fusible interfacing to under-collar following manufacturer’s directions.
  2. Turn under neckline seam allowance on under-collar and press.
  3. With right sides facing together (RST), align under-collar to top-collar. Run stitch around collar perimeter leaving neckline open. Trim corners and grade seams. Turn right side out and press flat. Set aside.
  4. Fold tie lengthwise with RST and align raw edges; match up diagonal end. Stitch tie leaving blunt short end open. Trim and grade seam allowance. Turn right side out and press flat. Repeat for second tie. Set aside.
  5. Sew up waist suppression darts on back and fronts.
  6. With RST, match fronts to back at shoulder. Stitch shoulder seam and press open.
  7. Align and match top-collar to back neckline with collar FACE to wrong side of body and extend over shoulder seams.
  8. Sew collar to neckline of garment. Clip seam allowance on front edge where the collar connects. Turn in the seam allowance at the neck into the collar and align the folded edge of the under-collar to the machine-stitching. Slip-stitch bottom edge of under-collar to body.
  9. With RST, align and match sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve caps to armholes.
  10. With RST, join fronts to back by aligning and matching side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch all in one motion from sleeve bottoms to hemline. On right front side only, leave a 2” [5 cm] slit opening at the waistline on the side seam.
  11. To finish the garment, turn in ⅜” [1cm] along the front neckline, then turn in ⅜” [1cm] once more. Topstitch in place (be careful not to stretch the neckline as you sew.)
  12. Do the same double-turned roll on the hemline.
  13. sideseam2Turn under the vertical front edges of the garment ⅜” [1cm] towards the inside of the garment. Turn under again by ⅜” [1cm]. As you topstitch the turn down, attach a tie to each front just below the neckline edge by encasing the open end of the tie in the seaming. Once the topstitch is complete, fold the tie over the garment edge and secure in place with a second row of topstitching.
  14. Turn the sleeve bottoms up ½” [0.6 cm] and press; then turn up ½” [0.6cm] more and hem.
purple-label-womens-joan-long-zippered-skirt-greyFeatured: Purple Label Zip Skirt

Everybody’s getting into the rocker-chic zipper skirts.

 


You will need:

  • 2-way stretch fashion fabric, 45” wide (spandex blend)
  • 1 separating zipper (equal to desired skirt length less 1 inch [25mm])
  • India stay tape, ¼” [6mm] wide (approx. the waist measurement + 6” [15 cm])
  • Matching polyester thread
  • Schmetz Stretch Needle®
  • Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso, just above the navel.

Hip – measure around fullest part of seat, about 9” [23 cm]  below waistline.

Finished Hem Length – measure vertically from waist to desired skirt length.

The featured skirt from Purple Label is 19 inches long [48.5 cm]

PATTERN DRAFT

skirt a

Draw 2 lines vertically and across on kraft paper at a 90° angle. Label point A.

A-B = skirt finished length

A-C = 9” [23 cm]

Square lines across all points.

C-D = ½ of hip measurement + ½ ” [6mm]

Square a line up and down from D to locate E and F.

C-G = ¼ of the hip measurement + 1” [25mm]

Square up to locate H.

I and J are 1” [25mm] on either side of H.

Join I and J to G to create a gently shaped dart, as shown.

K = midway G and D; square up and down to locate L and M.

C-N = D-K; square up and down to locate O and P.

B-Q = 1” [25mm]

M-R = 1” [25mm]

To shape waist, determine the difference between the hip and waist measurements.

Divide the difference by 4 and draw a gently shaped dart equal to this amount at L and O, with the dart facing the centerline.

NOTE: If the dart amount is greater than 1” [25mm], distribute the amount equally on either side of L and O.

facing 1To draft the skirt facing, trace off A-O-J-G-N-C and I-L-K-G on additional paper down to the hipline.

Close dart on back piece by folding it out.

Trace out new shape and smooth a gentle curve at the chevrons.

Trace out I-L-K-G for the side front facing.

Add ½” [12mm] seam allowances to all pattern pieces except hemline.

Grainline is parallel to selvedges to allow for the greatest stretch to go around the girth.

CUTTING

layDetermine the direction of greatest stretch of the fabric. It is usually the crosswise grain of the fabric eg. perpendicular to the selvedges.

Cut skirt front 4X self

Cut skirt side 2X self

Cut skirt back 1X on fold

Cut skirt back facing 1X on fold

Cut skirt side facing 2X self

ASSEMBLY

Sewing Tip: Use a stretch sewing machine needle for this project. Whenever sewing horizontal seams, find the “sweet spot” of the elasticity to allow for the stretch of the fabric.

1. Sew up side darts.

2. Insert separating zipper onto CF edges from top edge to ■.

Design Tip: For skirt hems below the knee, try a 2-way slider on the zipper for easy walking.

3. Sew one side panel to each skirt front.

4. Sew skirt back to side panels.

5. With skirt body FACE up, edge-stitch all vertical seams (have seam allowance directed toward the “side seam”)

For skirt facing:

6. Sew side front facings to each side of back facing.

7. Sew remaining 2 skirt fronts to each of the side front facings.

8. With skirt facing FACE up, edge-stitch all vertical seams (have seam allowance directed towards the centers).

Finishing the skirt:

9. With right side facing together, align and match top edge of skirt facing to skirt body.

10. braid2Cut the stay tape equal to the body measurement where you like to wear your skirts. (approximately 2″ [50mm] below waistline)

11. Pin/baste stay tape in place and sew top edge of skirt along the stay tape.

12. Align and match front facing to skirt body along zipper edge. Sew CF seams and hemline. Turn skirt right side out. Pin/baste un-sewn facing edge to  seam allowance of seam nearest to the CF zipper. Sew together. Separate zipper and topstitch CF along zipper.

13. Turn up hem 1” [25mm] and double top-stitch hem in place.

14. Secure the lower edge of the skirt facing to the skirt body by tacking together the seam allowances at the vertical seams only.

lifewithbirdbag_notcotFeatured: Turtle Tote by LIFEwithBIRD

An exercise in stylish functionality by Aussie line LIFEwithBIRD. A roomy, oversized canvas carryall, it can seamlessly go from work to after-hours party to weekend getaway, all without missing a beat. Here is a similar carpetbag version easy to draft and make up for your daytripping.

You will need:

  • 1 ¾ yds. [1.5m] canvas or upholstery fabric, 54” [137 cm] wide
  • 1 heavy-duty zipper, 18” [46 cm] long
  • 1 ½ yds. [1.4 m] heavy webbing, 2” [50 mm] wide
  • All-purpose thread
  • Cardboard
  • Kraft paper

DESIGN TIP: Match zipper colour with webbing strap colour.

DIMENISONS: approx. 20” X 10” X 15”   (51 cm X 25.5 cm X 38 cm)

PATTERN DRAFT

bag draft

Add ½” [12mm] seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

CUTTING

layCut 2 of each piece in fabric.

Cut 2 straps from webbing – 26” long

Cut a rectangle 20” X 10” in cardboard

ASSEMBLY

1. Prepare the base. With right sides together, stitch around the perimeter of the base layers, leaving one short end opening. Turn base right side out and press. Insert cardboard into base piece and slipstitch opening closed. Set aside.

 

2. Prepare patch pockets. Turn under 2” [50 mm] of top edge of pocket pieces and press. Hem turned edge. Turn under pocket side seam allowances and press flat. Set aside.

 

NOTE: A dome snap, Velcro® tab or zipper may be added to the patch pocket opening if desired. Do so at this time following manufacturer’s directions.

 

3. With right sides together (RST), align and match raw edges of bag at A and B. Stitch a 1” [25 mm] seam at A and B. Press seam allowance open.

 

4. zipperCenter zipper FACE down along opening in seam. Stitch zipper tape to seam allowances.

Turn bag FACE UP and topstitch on either side of seam and zipper.

 

5. With RST, align and match seams between A-C and B-D. Sew seam and press. Turn bag right side out and topstitch along both sides of the seam on the FACE side.

 

 

6. On FACE side, center a patch pocket over the  seam between the ● and edge-stitch along the pocket sides.

 

7. Attach ends of webbing strap at X at A and at B (on either side of zipper opening).

miterOpen zipper and turn out bag through opening. With RST, join A to A and sew across seam, ensuring the straps are caught in the seam. (Be careful not to twist the straps.)

Repeat on opposite side for B to B.

 

8. Join C-D together (RST) and press seam open. On FACE side, topstitch on either side of the seam.

 

9. Align and match C to C and D to D. Sew seams, ensuring you catch the bottom of the patch pocket in the stitching.

10. Turn bag right side out through zipper opening. Place self-lined cardboard base into bottom of bag for support.

satin-floral-skirt1 charlotte russeFeatured: Wrap Skirt by Charlotte Russe

Cut for a gracious A-line sweep, this pretty printed lined skirt reverses to a solid colour for double the dressing options. Great for travel or everyday wear, this easy wrap style design, similar to this one from Charlotte Russe, is a simple drafting project with a very forgiving fit.

You will need:

  • Fashion fabric A *
  • Fashion fabric B *
  • Fusible interfacing
  • Coordinating thread
  • 4 buttons, 7/8” [21.5 mm] dia., line 34
  • Kraft paper

* amount required will depend upon skirt sweep and desired length.

Design Tip: Select a printed fashion fabric and choose the dominant or background colour in the surface pattern as the solid colour match for the contrast fashion fabric.

MEASUREMENTS

Waist – measure around narrower part of torso just above the navel.

Hip – measure around fullest part of the seat, about 9” [23cm] below waistline.

Finished Hem Length – measure vertically from waistline to desired length (see chart below)

PATTERN DRAFT

SKIRT DRAFTDraw a T shape with the vertical base equal to the Finished Hem Length (FHL) and the centered horizontal top equal to ¼ of the Waist measurement (W).

Measure vertically from the top of the T shape 9” [23cm] and square across. Plot ¼ of the Hip measurement (H) and center it on this line.

Draw a tangent line by joining A and B and extend it to the hemline at C on both sides of center, as illustrated.

On the tangent line, measure the Finished Hem Length from A to D. Place the set-square at D and square a line from this point, blending smoothly into the hem. Repeat on opposite side.

wb

For the waistband, trace top portion on skirt panel, matching sides at A and B, 5 times onto additional paper. Smooth the chevrons into a gentle curve. Draw a parallel line 1 ½” [4 cm] above the tracing. At each end, square a line upward from the tracing.

Add ½” [12mm] seam allowance to skirt panel pattern and the waistband pattern. Grainline is the centerline.

CUTTING

lengthsCut 5 panels for each fabric. **

Cut 2 waistbands in contrast fabric.

Cut 2 interfacings for waistband.

** Note: Select fabrics in compatible weights and fiber content to allow for simple maintenance care.

ASSEMBLY

  1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of waistband pieces following manufacturer’s directions.
  2. Turn under the bottom edge seam allowance on one of the waistband pieces and press flat.
  3. With right side facing together, align and match raw edges of the waistband and pin/baste together. Stitch up the two short ends and the top edge of the waistband. Trim corners and grade seam allowance. Turn waistband right side out and press flat. Set aside.
  4. Pin/baste 2 pair of panels matching at A, B, and D with right sides facing together. Sew and press seams open.
  5. Align and match each pair on sides of remaining panel at A, B, and D and sew together. Press seams open. Set aside.
  6. Repeat STEP 4 and 5 for contrasting skirt panels.
  7. With right side facing together, layer the set of skirt panels and align outer edges. Pin/baste and sew the perimeter edges, leaving the top un-sewn. Trim corners and press seams open. Grade seam allowances to reduce bulk.
  8. Turn skirt right side out and press flat. Topstitch perimeter of skirt, if desired.
  9. Baste upper open edge together and match raw edge of waistband to top edge of skirt. Pin/baste and sew together.
  10. wrapskirtTurn all seam allowances to inside of waistband and align folded edge to machine-stitching on skirt waistline. Edge-stitch around perimeter of the waistband.
  11. Stitch a 1” [25 mm] buttonhole on each end of waistband. Position it ¾” [20mm] from the short end.
  12. Wrap the skirt around the waist to locate the placement of the buttons. At each location, sew a button on either side of the waistband (2 buttons anchored to one another) to make the skirt reversible.
  13. Measure the distance between the button locations to determine the location of the second set of buttonholes on the waistband. Stitch a 1″ [25mm] buttonhole.
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