The Ruffled Handbag pattern tutorial has been removed by the request of the designer. To view this design, check

http://www.hiddengoods.net/home.html

qphrt01_e982562e-heart-bag1

Step out with your Valentine with this heart-shaped disco bag.

You will need:

  • fashion fabric, 45″ wide
  • lining, 45″ wide
  • polyester fleece interfacing
  • Transfer web
  • cable cord, ½” dia.
  • coordinating thread
  • 1 dome snap set or Velcro tab, ½” dia
  • 1 tasseled decorative cord for bag strap
  • kraft paper

PATTERN

bag-draft

Make a circle. Measure the diameter (D).

Make a square with sides equal to D + ½”.

Cut circle in half.

Fold square in half matching opposite corners. Open fold.

Join semi circles to square matching Xs and Os to form heart shape.

Draw a 1″ dart between the semi circles 4″ long.

Bag Tab for closure – make a rectangle 3″ wide and 1/2 the diameter of the circle.  (1/2 D)

Add ½” seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

CUTTING

heart-lay1Fuse fleece interfacing to back of fashion fabric using transfer web before cutting out bag front & back and bag tab. Follow manufacturer’s direction for application.

Bag Shell – cut 2X self

Bag Lining – cut 2X lining

Tab – ½ D long x 3″ wide, self

Bias Strips for piping – 1″ wide (enough to go around perimeter of heart shape)

Cable Cording – perimeter of heart + 2″

ASSEMBLY

Make Piping

Make up corded bias piping. Join enough bias strips for the required length and wide enough to cover the cable cord plus the seam allowance. Lay the piping-11cord in the centre, on the wrong side of the bias strip.

Fold the bias strip over the cord matching the raw edges. Stitch the 2 sides of the bias strip together along the length. Use a zipper foot or cording foot on the sewing machine to ensure that the stitches are close to the cord.

Trim Bag Front

Place the corded piping around the outer edge of the interfaced heart piece, right sides together (RST) and matching the raw edges. Align the seams on the piping, allowing 1″ extra and begin at the dart; continue around the perimeter of the bag so that the piping gently curves around the heart shape (clip piping seam allowance if necessary). Finish at the dart and allow 1″ extra again. Carefully clip and remove the filler (cord only) from ends of the piping and crisscross the ends to neaten. Baste in place, 1/2″ in from the raw edges. Sew piping in place using a zipper foot.

Carefully cut through center of dart. Place ends of piping flat in center of dart. Fold heart in half and sew up dart to encase piping ends.

At  bottom of dart (●), attach bottom portion of dome snap set, according to manufacturer’s instructions. Set aside.

Front Bag Lining

Make a square patch pocket and place it in the center of one lining piece beneath the dart. Topstitch in place, leaving the top edge open. Sew up the dart.

With wrong sides together (WST), align and match the heart shape of the lining to the piped fashion fabric and baste together around the top part of the heart shape between the “O”s.

Stitch around the top edge using ½” seam allowance. Grade and trim seam allowance if necessary. Clip seam allowances at point O. Turn front bag section right side out and press edge flat. Topstitch along edge if desired. Baste the open edge of lining to the wrong side of the front piece from the Os to the point of the heart shape.

Bag Back Section and Lining

Sew up the dart on the bag back portion and on back lining piece.

With WST, align and match the heart shape and baste together around the top part of the heart shape between the “O”s.

Stitch around the top edge using ½” seam allowance. Grade and trim seam allowance if necessary. Clip seam allowances at point O. Turn back section right side out and press edge flat. Topstitch along edge if desired.

Apply the top portion of the dome snap set  to the bag tab, according to manufacturer’s directions.

Attach tab closure to face of back section, securing it at the bottom of the dart.

Joining Bag Front to Back

With WST, align and match the front and back sections following the heart point shape.

(Do not include the back lining.) Pin /baste together and sew along the piping using a zipper foot.  Grade seam allowance and trim point.

Turn under seam allowance of back lining and align folded edge with the machine-stitching. Slipstitch the opening edge of the lining closed.

Turn bag right side out.

Finishing Bag

Hand-stitch ends of tasseled cord securely at points O.

 

moncler3aFeatured: Rouge Passion Capelet by Giambattista Valli for Moncler.

The famed puffy ski coats from Italy’s Moncler has teamed up with Giambattista Valli for the Moncler Gamme Rouge Collection. The beautifully sculpted pieces flaunt huge collars with twisted closures. Why not hit the ski slopes wearing a capelet puffer?

You will need:

  • Approx. 60″ [152cm] of Marilite® waterproof nylon, 60″ [153cm] wide
  • Approx. 24″ [61cm] of hi-loft terylene batting, 60″ [153cm] wide
  • Coordinating polyester thread
  • 4 sets of covered dome snaps, ½” [12 mm] dia.
  • Kraft paper
  • Tissue paper

MEASUREMENTS

This pattern is drafted by height. The body proportion is made up of 8 heads.

Your height divided by 8.

Shoulder width = distance from shoulder point to shoulder point across the back.

PATTERN

draft-a1

BODY:

Make a perfect square equal to ½ of the shoulder width measurement.

redoUse a set-square to draw a 90 degree angle on the Kraft paper.

Set up a grid using the square as shown: A,B,C

Point O is 4″ from top right corner on square C.

Point Z is midpoint of right side on square C.

Join points O and Z with a curved line as shown in draft.

Point ■ is midpoint of upper square B.

Point X is located at left top corner of square C.

Points ■ (red) are located 2″ [5cm] from point X.

Fold new sheet of kraft paper into quarters.

Place left bottom corner of square A on folded corner of paper.

Trace out solid line outline of squares A-B-C.

This is the back and sleeve portion of the capelet.

Fold a second sheet of kraft paper in half width-wise.

Place bottom of square C on fold of paper.

Trace out solid line outline of square C.

This is the front piece of the capelet.

NOTE: Add seam allowance around perimeter of pattern pieces. (thick solid line)

Cut out pattern pieces while paper is still folded.

COLLAR:

Use a set-square to draw a 90 degree angle on the Kraft paper.

Set up a grid using the square as shown:

1st row: A,B,C,D

2nd row: E,F,G,H

Find the vertical midpoint of squares D and H. Join with a straight line.

Point + is midpoint of upper square C and lower square G

Add seam allowance to perimeter and cut out pattern piece. This is the collar.

Draw a rectangle 24″ x 2″ [61cm x 5cm]. This is the neck band.

Draw a rectangle 15″ x 5″ [38cm x 12.5cm]. Divide into 3 equal parts. These are carriers.

Add seam allowance to perimeter of neckband and carriers. Cut out pattern pieces.

CUTTINGlay1

Capelet Back and Sleeves – cut 1X self

Capelet Fronts – cut 2X self

Capelet Neckband – cut 2X self

Capelet Collar – cut 1X self

Carriers – cut 3X self

lay-bBack and Sleeve Insulation – cut 1X batting

Front Insulation – cut 2X batting

Neckband Insulation – cut 1X batting

Collar Insulation - cut 1X batting

ASSEMBLY

  1. For each carrier piece, fold in half lengthwise with right sides together (RST).
  2. Pin/baste long raw edges. Stitch seam and press open. Turn right side out and press flat.
  3. For each front piece, place one carrier at point Z face up. Fold fronts in half width-wise with RST.
  4. Pin/baste front edge and side seam. Sew seams, ensuring the carrier is caught in the seam, and press seams open.
  5. For back and sleeve portion, fold in half width-wise with RST.
  6. Pin upper edge and pin/baste under-sleeve arm edge on both ends. Sew seams and press seams open.
  7. Attach one front armhole to armhole on back portion with RST. Pin/baste armhole seam in a “U” shape. Sew armhole seam. Clip seam allowance if necessary.
  8. On back portion, fold self fabric at point X with RST, and pin/baste from X to red point. Sew seam and press open. Repeat on opposite end.
  9. Insert batting into each body piece. Baste insulation to seam allowance of armholes on the front portions and upper edges of all self pieces. Topstitch through all layers on back portion vertically at CB and vertical sides of square B to contain the insulation. (see tip below)
  10. Align one piece of the neckband to the upper edge of the body at the CB and at the CF with RST. Match the upper edge of the front piece and shoulder with the neckband and allow for seam allowance at the front edges. Pleat out any excess on the sleeve portion. Gather the upper back edge evenly into the neckband. Pin/baste into place. Layer the second neckband piece on the inside of the body to sandwich the 3 layers together. Pin/baste in place. Machine-stitch the neckband to the body. Sew up short ends of the neckband.  Press seams and trim if necessary. Turn right side out.
  11. Insert batting into neckband and baste upper edge closed.
  12. For collar piece, staystitch at pint +. Fold collar lengthwise in half and pin/baste from point + to end of collar and across short end. Sew seam; press and grade seam.
  13. On opposite short end, gather edge to remaining carrier. Fold carrier to form a loop and attach midway in seam. Gather collar onto it. Fold collar lengthwise with RST. Sew gathered end. Grade and trim seam allowance if necessary. Turn right side out.
  14. Insert batting into collar and baste to seam allowance. Pin/baste collar to neckband between the + . Sew collar seam. Turn seam allowance into the collar and slipstitch the open side to the neckband.
  15. To complete the capelet, handstitch 4 sets of dome snaps evenly-shaped to front edge closure and attach short end of carrier under the armhole by turning under the open end and sewing to the back of the capelet to create a sleeve.

TIP: To sew batting with fabric, place the batting side, face down on tissue paper and machine-stitch with the self fabric on top of the batting. Tear away the tissue paper from the seam afterwards.

striped-caftanFeatured: Oscar de la Renta Caftan

Oscar de la Renta shows us how to relax with this 2009 caftan style. The sheer striped silk print is so feminine and the flat braid trim makes this style ultra luxe. Can you just imagine lounging around in this? (You’ll definitely want to sew one up as no pattern is required.) This is a classic piece that belongs in any collection of beautiful, fine clothing.

You will need:

  • Fashion fabric, 45″ [114cm] wide
  • Flat braid trim, 2″ [5cm] wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • 12 half-ball buttons, line 20 [12.5 mm dia.]

MEASUREMENTS

Measure from the nape of your neck down to the desired length: purchase twice this amount of 45″ [114cm] wide fashion fabric and four and a half times this amount of 2″ [50mm] wide flat braid trim .

CUTTING

Cut the fabric into two equal lengths.

Reduce the width of both pieces to 35″ [89cm].

From the excess cut-away material, cut two rectangles, each measuring 10″ wide x 40″ long [25.5cm x 102cm]. Set these aside to be used for the sleeves.

NECKLINE

Choose one length of fabric to be the front of the caftan. Spread it out on the tabletop, face side up, and fold in half lengthwise. Mark and cut the front neck opening as follows:

frontneckFrom the foldline at the center top edge of the fabric:

Measure down 4″ [10cm] and mark with a pin.

Along the top edge, place a pin 4″ [10 cm] from the foldline.

Arc a curve using a compass from the top of the foldline between the 2 pins.

Cut out the neck opening. Refer to diagram A.

Cut along the foldine of the front piece in two halves  (centerfront seam).

backneckChoose the other panel of fabric to be the back of the caftan. Spread it out on the tabletop, face side up, and fold in half lengthwise. Mark and cut the back neck opening as follows:

From the foldline at the center top edge of the fabric:

Measure down 1 ½” [4 cm] and mark with a pin.

Along the top edge, place a pin 4″ [10cm] from the foldline.

From this pin, measure down 1 ½” [4cm].

Shape the back neck and cut out the neck opening. Refer to diagram B.

ASSEMBLY

On the two front portions of the caftan, turn ½” [12.5mm] seam allowance along the centerfront edges and press flat. Open the folded edge.

braid2Align the edge of the flat braid to the foldline of the seam allowance. The trim should be on top of the seam allowance with wrong sides together. Edge-stitch the braid to the centerfront edge.

Repeat (as mirrored image) to the opposite front piece of the caftan.

Layer both front pieces with right sides together and matching the braid trim. Align the trim at the center front.

Measure down from the neck edge 8″ [20cm] and mark with a pin. This will create a keyhole neckline.

Measure up from the hem edge 18″ [46cm] and mark with a pin. This will create a center slit.

With wrong sides together, stitch the centerfront seam of the front panels between the two pins. (Note: Do not catch the trim in the stitched seam.)

With the front piece FACE UP, gently press the centerfront seam open by placing the braid trim flat. On the open edge of the trim, edgestitch the braid to the caftan fronts.

With wrong sides together, pin/baste back piece to front piece at shoulders. Sew shoulder seams. Press seams open.

Take the two sleeve rectangles and pin braid trim to one long edge in the same manner that was used for the centerfront edge , aligning trim with seam allowance. (There will be some excess at the top and bottom). Edge-stitch braid to fabric to create the wrists.

With right sides together, fold each rectangle in half width-wise and mark  midpoint location with a pin.

With right sides together, pin/baste each sleeve rectangle to the body, matching the pin to the shoulder seam. Sew sleeves to body.

Measure the neck opening of the caftan (do not include seam allowance). Cut a length of braid trim equal to this measurement plus 1 inch [25mm].

Turn short ends of trim under ½” [12.5mm] and press flat. Fold trim in half lengthwise. Bind the raw neckline with the trim. Pin/baste in place. Topstitch along edge of braid from CF to CF.

caftan2To complete the caftan:

Place the front of the caftan together with the back, right sides together. Pin/baste the side seams and underarm seams together.  Trim any excess of the trim, if necessary.

Stitch the sides. Press seams open.

Hem the bottom by binding hemline with braid trim in the same manner used for the neckline.

Sew a thread loop and button at the neckline at the centerfront.

Sew a button at the base of the keyhole opening and another at the top of the center slit.

Evenly space the rest of the buttons along the centerfront seam and sew in place.

 

36552_1-bag1Featured: Lex Trip Bag

So this weekend will have you jetting off to the coast for sun & surf? For a weekend excursion you need a quick trip bag. Forget the luggage (too bulky); you need a versatile tote made specifically to carry all your belongings from wallet to swimtrunks for a quick weekend getaway.  Here is a fun choice in a cotton waxcloth outer with leatherette base and trim, perfect for the do-it-yourselfer,  similar to  the Lex Trip Bag from PROPERTY OF.

Dimensions: approximately 18″ x 8 x 17″ [45cm x 20.5cm x 43cm].

You will need:

  • 6 pop rivets
  • 1 metal slider, 2″ dia [50mm]
  • 2 latch hooks, 1″dia [25mm]
  • 2 d-rings, 1″dia [25mm]
  • 1 square ring, 2″ dia [50mm]
  • 2 dome snap set, 5/8″ dia [15mm]
  • 1 heavy metal zipper, 25″ [64cm] long *
  • 1-2/3 yds. [1.5m] of nylon webbing, 2″ [50mm] wide
  • heavy-duty thread
  • 1 yd. [0.9 m] of upholstery weight fabric, 54″ [137 cm] wide
  • 1/3 yd [0.25 m] of polyurethane leatherette, 39″ [100 cm] wide

PATTERN

1 square = 1 inch [2.5 cm]

CUTTING

bag-layBag – cut 1X on fold

Pocket- cut 2X

Struts – cut 4X

Handles – cut 2X

Handle trim – cut 2X contrast

Bag Bottom – cut 1X contrast

Tab – cut 6X contrast

DESIGN TIP: Use a permanent marker in the leather colour to carefully  “dye” the edges of the leather pieces if you get a white edge after cutting it.

ASSEMBLY

  1. To make D-ring tabs, wrap tab piece around D-ring and stitch close to d-ring. Open ends of tab flat.
  2. To make latch hook tabs, wrap tab piece onto latch hook and stitch close to ring.
  3. To make Shoulder strap, cut a length of webbing 6″ long and another, 30″ long.
  4. bag-hdwreOn the 6″ piece, wrap one cut end of the webbing with a latch hook tab and X-stitch in place. Secure tab with a pop rivet. On the opposite end, slip a square ring onto webbing and turn end back on itself and X-stitch it closed.
  5. On the 30″ piece, wrap one cut end of the webbing with a latch hook tab and X-stitch in place. Secure tab with a pop rivet.
  6. Slip a slider on to the webbing. On the opposite end, slip the strap through the square ring on the shorter piece and back on itself through the slider.
  7. Stitch across the end of the webbing and secure with a pop rivet.
  8. On pocket piece, turn the top edge under 2″ and stitch down.
  9. Apply the top portion of the snap kit to the pocket following manufacturer’s directions.
  10. Place pocket up-side down at points G,H and stitch bottom edge to body using 1/2″ seam allowance.
  11. Fold the pocket upward and mark contact point of snap on body portion.
  12. Apply bottom portion of snap kit to the body.
  13. Turn under long edges of struts 1/2″ and press flat.
  14. trip-bag-assmbly1Place a pair of struts at points A,B,I,J and C,D,K,L on the body portion with pocket sides under the strut pieces.
  15. Topstitch struts in place.
  16. Repeat the  above proceduces for the opposite side of the bag.
  17. Center contrasting bag bottom piece onto bag and overlap strut ends. Topstitch in place.
  18. On bag straps, turn under 1/2″ on both short ends. Press flat.
  19. With right sides together, fold the strap piece in half lengthwise and stitch along the length using 1/2″ seam allowance. Press seam open. Turn strap piece right side out. Press flat. Topstitch perimeter of bag straps.
  20. Fold the strap in half lengthwise and center a contrast handle trim along the open side of the strap. Wrap the trim around the “doubled” handle edge. Topstitch in place.
  21. Repeat this for the other bag strap.
  22. Align the ends of each strap level with the top of the pocket and sew an X-stitch to points A-B and C-D. (Note: ensure you allow for 1/2″ seam allowance at top of bag.)
  23. With right side together, align and match up the side seams of the bag. Stitch seam using 1/2″ seam allowance. Press seam open.
  24. endFold across the bottom, centering the side seam in the middle and stitch across the open end using 1/2″ seam allowance.
  25. On the top edge of the bag, position the zipper FACE UP inside the bag on the wrong side of the fabric. Center it.  Pin and baste in place. Unzip the zipper.
  26. With right side together, sew the pair of zipper plackets together across the short ends using 1/2″ seam allowance. Press seams open. Turn right side out.
  27. On one long edge of placket, turn under 1/2″ and press flat.
  28. With right side of placket to wrong side of body, pin/baste raw edge of placket over the zipper opening. Stitch around circumference of opening using 1/2″ seam allowance and ensure that you are securing the zipper tape in the seam.
  29. Fold over  placket face up to right side of bag and align the folded edge with the machine-stitching. Topstitch in place.
  30. At top of each side seam, below the placket, center the D-ring tabs and apply with topstitching.

* Design Tip: Purchase the metal toothed zipper in the same metal colour/finish as the metal luggage hardware.

The Wrap skirt pattern tutorial has been removed by the request of the designer. To view this design, check

http://assemblage.typepad.com/assemblage/2008/08/antique-kimono-ribbon-wrap-skirt.html

 

waistcoat_dbreasted_molohFeatured: Vest by Moloh

A beauty in this double-breasted shawl-collared waistcoat from Moloh.

You will need:

  • 1 yd. [0.9 m] of fashion fabric, 54″ [150 cm] wide
  • 1 yd. [0.9 m] of bemberg® satin lining, 45″ [115 cm] wide
  • 1 yd. [0.9 m] of fusible interfacing, 24″ [60 cm] wide
  • coordinating thread
  • 18 half-ball shank buttons, 13mm diameter [line 20]
  • kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure under arms over fullest part of chest.

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso at the navel.

High hip – measure around pelvis approx. 4″ [10 cm] below natural waist.

Back waist length – measure from nape of neck to natural waist.

Armhole depth – measure drop from shoulder to armpit level.

Shoulder – measure length of shoulder.

Back width – measure across shoulder blades from armhole to armhole.

Neck size - measure around base of neck.

Dart Width Opening – 2 ¾” [7cm].

PATTERN

vest-21Square down from 0; square halfway across the paper.

0-1 = 5/8″ [1.5 cm].

1-2 = armhole depth + 3/16″ [0.5 cm]; square across.

2-3 = half of bust + 2″ [5 cm].

Square up and down; label this line centerfront [CF].

3-4 = 0-2

Square across from 4.

1-5 = back waist length; square across to 6.

5-7 = 4″ [10 cm], square across to centerfront line. Label point 8. (this gives ½ the high hip measurement plus 1″ [2.5 cm] ease).

Back

0-9 = 1/5 of neck minus 1/16″ [0.2 cm]; draw in back neck curve 1-9.

1-10 = 1/5 armhole depth minus ¼” [0.7 cm]; square halfway across the paper.

9-11 = shoulder length minus 1″ [2.5 cm]; draw back shoulder line to touch the line from 10.

12 is center of the shoulder line.

12-13 Draw a dart 2″ [5cm] long and 3/8″ [1 cm] wide perpendicular to shoulder line.

2-14 = ½ back width + 3/16″ [0.5 cm] ease; square up to 15.

14-16 = half the measurement of 14-15.

17 is midway between 2 and 14; square down with a dotted line to point 18 on waistline and point 19 on hemline.

Front

4-20 = 1/5 neck minus ¼” [0.7 cm].

4-21 = 1/5 neck minus 1/16″ [0.2 cm].

3-22 = 1/2 of back width measurement minus 3/4″ [2 cm] + half width of dart opening; square up.

3-23 = ½ of distance 3-22; square down with a dotted line to point 24 on waistline and point 25 on hemline.

26 is the bust point approx. 1″ [2.5 cm] down from 23; draw a line joining 20-26.

20-27 = dart opening; draw a line joining 26-27.

11-28 =  5/8″ [1.5 cm]; square out approx. 4″ [10 cm] to 29.

27-30 Draw a line from 27, equal to the back shoulder to touch on line from 28 to 29.

22-31 = 1/3 the measurement 3-21.

32 is midway between 14 and 22; square down with a dotted line to point 33 on the waistline and point 34 on the hemline.

Draw armhole as shown passing through points 11, 16, 32, 31, and 30.

When shoulder seams are joined it is essential that the armhole is a smooth curve.

3-35 = 3-23; square up to locate point 36 on line from 21 and square down to locate point 37 on line from 8. This is the double-breasted closure.

37-38 = ½” [1.25cm].

38-39 = ½” [1.25 cm].

Join 35 and 39 with a straight line.

The waistcoat requires a front drop from 7 to 39; join with a gentle curved line to complete the hemline.

Take a tracing of the back neck curve 1-9 and flip the shape over.

Place point 9 of back neck curve on point 20 on front neck.

vest-320-40 = 1-9.

40-41 = 3 ½” [9 cm]; this is the CB of the collar.

Complete the roll collar by drawing a parallel line to the neckline of the collar from 41 and gently curving into point 36 as shown.

Shaping the waist of the waistcoat requires half the waist measurement plus 1-3/16″ [3 cm] ease. This means 4 ¾” [12 cm] shaping. Shape waist suppression on the dotted lines; 1-3/8″ [3.5 cm] at back dart, 1-5/8″ [4 cm] at side seam, and 1 ¾” [4.5 cm] at front dart.

vest-41Close the bust dart by slashing the dotted line up to point 26 and match point 27 to 20.

Mark 9 button placements evenly on either side of centerfront line for a double-breasted closure.

Front Facing

Trace off the vest draft. To make the front facing piece, separate the collar and front edge of the vest through points 25-26-20-40-41-36-35-39. The remaining pattern pieces will be used for the lining pattern.

NOTE: Add seam allowance to all pattern pieces.

CUTTING

Vest Front – cut 2X self

Vest Back – cut 1X self on fold

Vest Collar & Facing – cut 2X self

Vest Front Lining – cut 2X lining

Vest Back Lining – cut 1X lining on fold

Vest Interfacing – cut 2X fusible

ASSEMBLY

  1. Iron fusible interfacing onto back of collar & facing pieces, following manufacturer’s directions.
  2. With right sides together (RST), pin/baste front facing to front lining. Sew seam and press seam allowance towards lining. Topstitch the lining along the seam.
  3. staystichStay-stitch shoulder/neck point (#20) on collar facing to reinforce corner. Clip seam allowance to the stitching at a 45° angle.
  4. Pin/baste waist suppression darts on back lining. Sew darts and press towards the sideseam.
  5. With RST, pin/baste lining fronts to lining back at sideseams and shoulders. Sew seams and press open.
  6. With RST, pin /baste CB seam of top collar together. Sew seam and press open. Then pin/baste the collar neckline to the back lining and sew between the two clips. Press seam towards lining. Topstitch lining along neckline seam. Set aside.
  7. Stay-stitch shoulder/neck point (#20) on waistcoat fronts to reinforce corner. Clip seam allowance to the stitching at a 45° angle.
  8. Pin/baste waist suppression darts on back and front waistcoat sections.  Sew darts and press towards the center.
  9. With RST, pin/baste fronts to back at sideseams and shoulders. Sew seams and press open.
  10. With RST, pin /baste CB seam of under-collar together. Sew seam and press open.
  11. With RST, pin /baste neck edge of collar to back neckline of waistcoat. Sew neck seam between the two clips. Press seam open.
  12. Place the lined portion with the outer portion of the waistcoat with right sides together, aligning them up along the outer edges. Pin/baste the two halves of the waistcoat together.
  13. Stitch the waistcoat along the front edge and collar. Grade seams and clip seam allowance along curved edge of collar. Press seam open.
  14. Pin/baste along the lower edge of the waistcoat from the front edge to the sideseam matching up the waist darting. Sew lower edge of front and press open. Trim corners and grade seam allowance on front facing.
  15. Turn the waistcoat right side out. Use a point turner to gently push out the edges of the garment and make sure it is fully right side out.
  16. Entering from the bottom, match up the seam allowances of the armholes and sew lining around the armholes. Do a parallel row of stitching 1/8″ [0.25 cm] on armholes and trim seam allowances away. Then, match up the seam allowances of the back neckline and collar and baste together.
  17. Turn the bottom edge of the waistcoat so that the back hemline is even with the rest of the front. Press the folded hem. Turn the bottom edge of the lining and lay on top of the hem just shy of the fold. Baste the two layers together. Slipstitch the lining to the back.
  18. Under-stitch along the armholes, 1/4 inch [0.5 cm] from the edge.
  19. Press the outer edges of the waistcoat. Under-stitch the front closure and under-collar 1/4 inch [0.5 cm] from the edge.
  20. On the right hand side front, thread-mark 9 buttonholes (5/8″ diameter [15 mm]). Sew buttonholes.
  21. Hand-stitch 9 shank buttons to the left front of the waistcoat following button placement on draft.
  22. To create the double-breasted “look”, on the right front sew 9 more buttons (mirror-imaged on CF line) in a slight V-formation, as shown.


twelve-by-twelve-vest-belt-mystical-forestFeatured: Forever 21 belt from Twelve By Twelve

A unique and eye-catching haberdashery “vest-style” belt to make.

You will need:

  • ½ yd. [0.5 m] of fashion fabric, 45″ [115 cm] wide
  • ¼ yd. [0.25 m] of fusible interfacing, 45″ [115 cm] wide
  • Covered button kit, 10 mm diameter/line 16
  • Coordinating thread

PATTERN

belt-2

1 square = 1 inch [2.5 cm]

Note: Add seam allowance.

Lengthen/shorten the waistline of the belt at CB fold.

CUTTING

belt1Belt – cut 2X on fold

Belt Interfacing – cut 1X on fold

Welt – cut 1X

Welt Facing – cut 1X

ASSEMBLY

  1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of OUTER belt section, following manufacturer’s direction.
  2. Make 4 – 3/8″ (10 mm) covered buttons [line 16] following manufacturer’s directions.
  3. For a single welt on the belt, you will need a welt piece and a facing piece. The welt strip should be 2 ½ ” (6 cm) deep [ 3/4" (2 cm) finished] and 1 ¼” (3 cm) longer than welt placement line. The facing piece should be twice as wide as the welt and 1 ¼ ” (3 cm) longer than placement line. Interface the facing piece. Transfer all placement markings to the welt, the facing, and the OUTER belt section.
  4. With wrong sides together, fold the welt piece in half lengthwise. Baste the raw edges together. On the right side of the garment, position the welt with the raw edges aligned with the centre of the placement line and the folded edge extending beyond the bottom of the placement line. Pin and baste in place along placement line of welt on the surface of the left hand side of the belt section.
  5. Place facing piece, right side face down over area above placement line. Stitch along marked placement line being careful not to touch top and side edges of welt in seam. Cut along centre of the placement line, ending ¼ ” (7 mm) from ends, being careful not to cut through welt strip. Turn raw edges to inside with welt strip centre in opening.
  6. bbh-1c3Fold back the belt to expose the seam allowance at the upper edge of the opening. Matching raw edges and with right sides together, centre facing piece over the seam allowance. Sew in place. From right side of belt piece, fold back welt opening to expose small triangular pieces and welt of pocket. Stitch along welt side seamlines, catching small triangles in seam. Stitch across bottom of welt opening catching the facing portion to close the opening. Trim seam allowance and clean-finish edges.
  7. With wrong sides together, layer the two belt sections  together and match up raw edges. Pin/baste the perimeter. Machine stitch around the belt, leaving a 5″ (13 cm) opening to turnout. Grade seam allowances and trim corners. Turn belt right side out. Press edges flat.
  8. On right hand side of belt face, thread-mark 4 – 1/2″ (1.25 cm) buttonholes. Stitch buttonholes. Hand-stitch the covered buttons to the left front of the belt.
shoulder-vest1SHOULDER VEST

The Commuter Bandolier is a comfortable easy-to-wear shoulder vest and can totally tote your possessions in its pouches as you go about your daily routine. Cheerfully strap it on, head out into the world, and start a culture-wide fashion trend.

You will need:

  • 1 yd. [0.90 m] of fashion fabric, 45″[114 cm] wide
  • 1/3 yd. [0.30 m] of pocketing, 45″ [114 cm] wide
  • 2/3 yd. [0.60 m] of fusible interfacing, 45″ [144cm] wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • 2 nylon pocket zippers, 10″ [25 cm] long
  • ¼ yd. [23 cm] of Velcro® fastener, ½” [1.25 cm] wide
  • kraft paper

PATTERN

bag-2Dimensions are given in inches (imperial). **

NOTE: Length and width measurements may be adjusted by slashing through the RED lines and increasing or decreasing the amount needed in proportion.

** Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

CUTTING

bag-layout1Cut each pattern piece 2X in fashion fabric.

Cut each pattern piece 1X in fusible interfacing.

(flip pattern)

Cut each pocket piece 2X in pocketing.

Cut interfacing 1″ X 11″ [2.5cm X 28 cm] for each zipper opening.

Cut 1 Velcro hook side – 7″ [18 cm] long.

Cut 3 Velcro loop side – 3″ [7.5 cm] long.

ASSEMBLY

  1. Iron fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the INNER FACING pieces of the vest, following the manufacturer’s directions.
  2. On the OUTER pieces of the shoulder harness and right front piece, center and fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric at the zipper placement.
  3. With right sides together (RST), match the upper pocket piece to the zipper placement on the shoulder harness. Baste in place. Stitch the outline of the pocket opening 10″ [25 cm] long X ½” [1.25 cm] wide, pivoting at the corners.
  4. Slash through center of outlined stitching and cut diagonally into the corners. Pull pocket lining through opening to wrong side of shoulder harness. This opening should form a perfect rectangle. Roll edges of opening between your fingers until each seam is at the edge of the opening. Press so that none of the lining shows on the outside.
  5. Center the zipper with the slider pointing upward behind the opening and baste in place.
  6. Topstitch around the pocket opening to secure the zipper.
  7. Match the remaining pocket lining piece to the upper pocket lining and align raw edges. Pin/baste the perimeter and sew up the pocket bag.
  8. Baste vertical seams of pocket bag to shoulder harness.
  9. Repeat inset zipper application to pocket opening on right front piece, as described above.
  10. Match front and back of shoulder harness with RST. Pin/baste long edges together. Sew seams, catching the pocket bag in the stitching. Turn shoulder harness right side out and press seams flat. Topstitch along the long edges.
  11. Match the vertical seams of the OUTER pieces of the “belt” portion of the vest. Pin/baste each seam and machine-stitch. Press seams open.
  12. Repeat last procedure for the vertical seams of the interfaced INNER pieces of the “belt” portion of the vest.
  13. Position the Velcro® hook vertically 1″ [2.5cm] from raw edge along the right front edge on the INNER portion (allow for seam allowance) with the right side UP. Stitch in place.
  14. Baste shoulder harness to OUTER portion on front and back along top edge, matching up RED dots.
  15. Pin/baste INNER and OUTER “belt” sections with RST and match up seams. Beginning at the center of the bottom edge, sew around the perimeter and pivot at the corners, leaving a 6″ [15cm] opening to turn out. Be certain to catch pocket bag in the stitching. Grade seam allowances and trim corners.
  16. Turn vest right side out and press edges flat. Topstitch around the perimeter to close opening.
  17. On left front, position 3 Velcro® loops horizontally and equally spaced approximately ¼” [0.5 cm] from the front edge on the OUTER section with the right side UP. Stitch in place through all layers.

peasant-blouse

In the fashion world, bohemian or boho, refers to a a state of mind regarding fashion that is individual, romantic, and free-spirited. This style is often called hippie-chic. Try drafting and making a fully-gathered yoked boho blouse to wear with your skinny jeans.

You will need:

  • Approx. 1.5 yds. [1.4 m] of fashion fabric, 60″ [150 cm] wide
  • Approx. 0.5 yd. [0.5 m] of fusible interfacing, 24″ [60 cm] wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure under the arms around the fullest part of chest.

Back waist length - measure from nape of neck to waistline.

Shoulder width – measure across back from shoulder to shoulder.

PATTERN

blouse-draftYoke:

Fold kraft paper into quarters, aligning the foldline.

From the folded corner, measure ½ of shoulder width plus ½” [1.25 cm] across the paper.

From the folded corner, measure ½ of shoulder width minus 1″ [2.5cm] down the paper.

From the folded corner, draw a 45° line between the 2 foldlines.

Plot a point on the line equaling ½ of shoulder width. Label point, X.

Join these 3 points with a smooth curve.

Draw a second line 4″ [10 cm] parallel to the curved line within the curve to complete the yoke.

Add ½” [1.25 cm] seam allowances to neckline and yokeline.

Cut the shape from the folded paper.

Body:

Square 2 lines across and down the paper.

The length of the body equals the back waist length plus 1″ [2.5 cm] hem.

Label the length, CENTER FOLD.

The width of the body equals ½ of the bust measurement.

Square from these points to complete the body pattern.

On the side seam, measure 5″ [13 cm] from the hem. Label this point, O.

Point X is located at the top of the sideseam.

Add ½”[1.25 cm] seam allowance to top edge and side seam.

Sleeve:

Fold kraft paper in half and square a line from the foldline.

Plot a point on the line equal to the distance from X to O on the body section.

Label this point, X and label the foldline, O on the sleeve section.

Square a line from X.

Plot a point on this line from X and along the foldline from O equal to ½ the bust measurement.

Join the 2 points with a straight line. Add a 1-inch [2.5 cm] hem to complete the sleeve.

Add ½” [1.25 cm] seam allowances to top edge and side seam.

Cut the sleeve shape from the folded paper.

CUTTING

blouse-assemblyYoke – Cut 2X self.

Yoke Interfacing – Cut 1X fusible.

Body – Cut 2X self on fold.

Sleeve – Cut 2X self.

ASSEMBLY

  1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of 1 yoke section following the manufacturer’s directions.
  2. With right sides together (RST), match up the front and back sections of the body. Pin/baste side seam between O and hem edge. Stitch side seams. Press open.
  3. Turn under a ½” [1.25 double rolled hem along the sleeve opening and topstitch down.
  4. With RST, pin/baste sleeve between the Xs on the body. Stitch seam and press open.
  5. Sew 2 rows of gathering stitches across the top edge of the front and back body from sleeve opening to sleeve opening. Draw up threads and gather fabric.
  6. With RST, pin/baste gather edges of body to yoke, matching centers and Xs. Butt sleeve opening edge together and pin/baste at shoulder point on yoke. Distribute gathers evenly.
  7. Machine stitch yokeline. Press seam allowance towards yoke. Turn garment right side out.
  8. Turn under seam allowance along outer edge on interfaced yoke piece. Press.
  9. Match neckline of interfaced yoke piece to neckline of garment. Pin/baste in place. Stitch neck seam. Clip and grade seam allowance. Pull interfaced yoke piece through neckline to inside. Understitch the neckline.
  10. Lap the folded edge of the interfaced yoke piece over the gathered yoke seam, matching the centers, shoulders, and Xs. Slipstitch yokeline to encase the raw edges of the gathers.
  11. Turn under the hem allowance of the garment and press. Stitch a ½” [1.25 cm] double rolled hem.
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