sundress2Featured: Simplicity

The button-front “chemise” sundress— the quintessential of summer attire – is easy to wear, unrestrictive and yet not without that “sophisticated look”. This summer, you’ll find the sundresses  will be both elegant and appealing. And I am sure that because of its easy patterndraft, this lovely addition to your summer wardrobe will inspire you with your favourite fashion fabric.

You will need:

  • 1 ½ yds. [1.5 m] of Fashion fabric, 60” [150 cm]wide
  • 1 ¼ yds. [1.2 m] of Fusible interfacing 24” [60 cm] wide
  • 12 buttons, 7/8” [22 mm] dia., line 34
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure around fullest part of chest, just under the arms.

Hips –  measure around fullest part of seat, about 8” [20 cm] below waistline.

Back waist length – measure distance from nape of neck to waistline

PATTERN

sundress draft

A-B = back waist length

B-C = 2 times back waist length (or desired finished length**)

B-D = 4” [10cm]

Square across all points.

D-E = 1/2 of hip or bust measurement (whichever is the greater)

Square up and down from E to locate G, H.

I = half distance of A to B.

Square across to locate J.

I-K = 2” [5cm]; square across to locate L.

J-M = 3” [7.5 cm]

N = half distance of I to J.

Square down from N to locate O, P, and R.

N-Q = 1” [2.5 cm];  I-S = 1” [2.5 cm];  join M to Q.

T = half distance of B to P.

Square up and down from T to locate U and V.

L-W = 3” [7.5 cm]

H-X = 3” [7.5 cm]

Join W and X with a straight line.

Measure 1” [2.5 cm] on either side of P. Shape sideseam by joining Q and R with a smooth curve passing through the points on either side of P.

Measure ½” [12 mm] either side of T. Make a shaping dart by joining U and V with a smooth curve passing through the points on either side of T. (optional)

PINTUCKS

Trace out A-G-K-L.

Add ½” [12mm] at K and L. Join new points with a straight line.

Divide rectangle horizontally with 1 ½” [4 cm] intervals (3 in total) to create the pintucks.

Each pintuck is ½” [12 mm] wide with 1” [25 mm] spacing. (see diagram)

pintuck

Trace out on fold S-Q-R-O-C for the dress back.

Trace out J-N-O-R-Q-M for the dress front.

Trace out L-W-X-N for the front placket.

Trace out on fold K-L-J-I for the dress facing.

Add ½” [12 mm] seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

Add 1 ¼” [ 32 mm] hem allowance to dress back and fronts.

**Design Note: This patterndraft can be shorten to waistline for a smart summer camisole.

CUTTING

sundress layCut BACK 1X self on fold

Cut FRONTS 2X self

Cut FACING 1X self on fold; 1X interfacing on fold

Cut PLACKET 2X self; 2X interfacing.

Cut PINTUCKS 1X self on fold

Cut 2 SHOULDER STRAPS =  16” long X 1” wide

[40 cm x 2.5 cm]

ASSEMBLY

  1. Make 2 shoulder straps ¼” [6mm] wide.
  2. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of dress facing and both placket pieces, following manufacturer’s directions.
  3. Make the pintuck border. Beginning at the top edge, turn under 1 ½” [4cm] and press. Stitch ½” [12 mm] parallel to folded edge. From stitching, turn under 1” [25mm] and press. Stitch ½” [12mm] parallel to pressed edge. From stitching, turn under 1” [25 mm] and press. Set aside.
  4. Stitch the suppression darts on the back piece. (optional)
  5. Stitch fronts to back along side seams. Press seam open.
  6. Align and match bottom edge of pintuck border to top edge of dress. Pin/baste with right sides facing together. Machine stitch. Grade seam allowance and press upward.
  7. From face side, baste along seamline (while tucking in the seam allowance) to complete last pintuck. From last pressed fold, stitch ½” [12 mm] parallel to seamline.
  8. Press all pintucks downward on the face side of the dress.
  9. Set shoulder straps in place on front and back. Baste to top edge of border.
  10. Align and match dress facing to top edge of dress ensuring the straps are caught in the seam. Pin/baste in place. Machine stitch the seam. Grade seam allowance and press to one side. Understitch facing. Finish bottom of facing by turning under ¼” [6 mm] then topstitching. Turn facing to inside of dress.
  11. With right side of placket to wrong side of dress fronts, pin/baste placket to each front (allowing for seam allowance at top and hem). Stitch seam and press to one side.
  12. On opposite side of placket, turn under seam allowance and press flat. Fold the short ends of the placket back on itself and stitch across top and bottom. Trim corners, then  turn plackets right side out. Align the pressed edge to the row of machine stitching and topstitch closed.
  13. On the right front placket, divide the length equally for 12 1-inch [2.5 cm] vertical buttonholes spaced 3 inches [7.5 cm] apart from the top. Position the first buttonhole 1″ [2.5cm] from the top of the dress front opening.
  14. On the left front placket, sew on the buttons.
br-wool-cloche-hatFeatured: Cloche hat from Banana Republic

A buckled cloche for Spring.  Easy-peasy and pretty!

You will need:

  • Graph paper
  • approx. 1 yd. of fusible interfacing, 45″ wide
  • approx. 1 yd. of bottom-weight or upholstery fashion fabric, 54″-60″ wide
  • approx. 1/2 yd. of lining fabric, 45″ wide
  • approx. 3/4 yd. of grosgrain ribbon, 2″ wide
  • 1 belt buckle, 1 ½” wide
  • coordinating thread

DIMENSIONS

This hat draft is a medium size for a head circumference of approximately 23” [58.5cm].

PATTERN

hat

Grid: 1 square = 1 inch [25 mm]

Add ½  inch seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

Trace out and cut pattern shapes on fold of graph paper.

CUTTING

Cut the crown side 2X; lining 2X ; interfacing 2X

Cut the crown top 1X; lining 1X; interfacing 1X

Cut the brim 2X; interfacing 1X

Cut the belt strap 2X; interfacing 1X

Cut the sweatband (grosgrain ribbon) 24” long  X 2″ wide.

ASSEMBLY

1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of each crown piece and to one of each of the brim and strap pairs, following manufacturer’s directions.
2. On each brim piece, pin and baste CB seam with right side together. Stitch seam using a ½” seam allowance and press open.
3. Layer the 2 brim pieces with right sides facing together and align the CB seams. Pin/baste outer edges together. Sew around the perimeter of the brim.
4. Grade and trim the seam allowance and turn brim right side out. Press outer edge flat.
TIP: Due to fabric thickness, it is important to grade the seam allowances as you sew. The bulk will reduce the headfitting measurement. You may also take less of the seam allowance to account for the bulk.

5. Topstitch outer edge of brim.  (I use the width of the presser foot as a spacer.) The more stitching you put, the stiffer the brim. Set aside.
6. Layer the belt strap pieces with right sides facing together. Align and match up raw edges and pin/baste together. Machine-stitch across one short end and along the 2 long edges. Grade and trim seam allowances and turn strap right side out. Press outer edges flat. Topstitch around perimeter of the strap. Set aside.
7. Pin/baste the side pieces to the top section, with right sides facing together. Ease the straight edges into the curved ones. Machine-stitch the 2 side seams of the crown portion. Press the seam open. (You may need to clip the seam allowance to get it to lie flat.) Turn the crown right side out.
8. Repeat the same method for the hat lining. Insert the lining into the hat crown with wrong sides facing together. Baste lining to crown around the circumference of the crown.
9. Align the CF and CB and the Xs of the crown and the brim. Match up these points, pin and basting with right sides together. Machine stitch the crown section to the brim, using a ½” seam allowance.
10. Sew in grosgrain ribbon as a “sweatband”. This should equal the head fitting measurement. Lay the ribbon on top of the seam allowance along the top of the brim and edge stitch along the ribbon edge. Overlap at CB. Grade and trim  the seam allowance . Turn the ribbon up into the crown to conceal the raw edge of the seam allowance and tack to CB of hat with hand stitching.
11. On the left side of the hat exterior above the seamline of the brim, handstitch the open end of the belt strap to the center of the crown side piece using a narrow seam allowance. (Do this with the belt strap pointing to the front of the hat.) Fold the strap back onto itself and slip on the buckle. Wrap the strap around the hat’s crown and slip loose end into the buckle. (Add punched eyelets if you are using a pronged belt buckle).

sundress12Courtesy: Vogue

A flirty flouncer has that button-to-hem flippancy and shows lots of sun-kissed shoulder.

A very easy sundress draft to get you in that tantalizing “island-in-the-sun” attitude.

You will need:

  • Approx. 2 – 2 ¼ yds [1.8 – 2m] of fashion fabric, 45″ [114 cm] wide
  • 2.5 yds. [2.3 m] of pre-cut interfacing, 1″ [2.5 cm] wide
  • 1 pkg. of single fold bias tape, ½” [12.5 mm] wide
  • 1 yd of elastic, 3/8″ [10 mm] wide
  • 8 buttons, line 20; ½” [12.5 mm] diameter
  • Coordinating thread
  • Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS

Bust = measure around the fullest part of chest just under the arms.

Hip = measure around the fullest part of the seat about 9″ [23 cm] below the natural waist.

Back waist length = distance from nape of neck to natural waistline.

PATTERN

draft2This pattern is drafted by height.

Make a SQUARE template with length and width equal to your Back Waist Length.

On the kraft paper, square lines from X at 90 degrees.

The line squared down from X is the length. It equals the centerline. (dress length)

Along the length line of the paper, set up A-B-C as shown.

Across the width line of the paper, set up C-D-E-F as shown.

1. On square A, divide the length into 3 equal parts.

Add 1 inch [25 mm] at the first division by marking a parallel line above the division line.

Subtract the difference between your hips and bust measurements on this new line, opposite the centerline.

Join this point to the bottom corner of square B with a straight line.

Cut pattern  piece A-B out.*

This is the pattern piece for the front and back of the dress.

2. Save remaining piece of square A for O.*

This is the pattern piece for the shoulder straps.

3. Parallel to the centerline, draft K piece from X and make it 2 inches [50 mm] wide.

Cut pattern piece K out.*

This is the pattern piece for the front button placket.

4. Along the top edge of C-D-E-F, add 1 inch [25 mm] by marking a parallel line above the squares.

Along the bottom edge of C-D-E-F, add ½ inch [12.5 mm] by marking a parallel line below the squares.

Label centerline on square C.

Cut out pattern  piece C-D-E-F.*

This is the pattern piece for the flounce of the dress.

* Note: Add seam allowances to pattern pieces.

Grainline is parallel to centerline.

CUTTING

dresslay2Dress Back – cut 1X self on fold

Dress Fronts – cut 1X self on fold

Button Placket – cut 2X self

Shoulder Straps – cut 2X self

Flounce – cut 2X self

Interfacing – cut 2 strips equal to dress length

ASSEMBLY

  1. For the shoulder straps, fold each O piece lengthwise with right sides together (RST).
  2. Stitch along the long edge. Press seam open.
  3. Stitch across one short end. Grade and clip corners. Turn strap right side out. Press flat.
  4. Make 2 shoulder straps. Set aside.
  5. For flounce, cut one of the two fabric pieces in half. Align and match each short piece to either side of the long piece with RST at the short ends. Pin/baste and sew the seams. Press seams open. Finish  the raw seam edge (I used pinking shears).
  6. Hem the bottom edge of the flounce by turning under ¼” [0.7 mm] and then ¼” [0.7mm] again. Press turnings. Machine stitch in place.
  7. Then, turn upper edge down 1 inch [25 mm] to make a heading for the flounce, and baste. Gather fabric along the basting. Set aside.
  8. For the dress fronts, cut one folded fabric piece in half. Align and match each front piece to either side of the back piece with RST at the side seams. Pin/baste and sew the seams. Press seams open. Finish  the raw seam edge (I used pinking shears).
  9. bias-tapeTurn upper edge of dress down 1 inch to make a gathered ruffle, and baste. Apply the bias fold tape on top of the raw edge of the turned dress edge. At this time, place one shoulder strap under the top edge of the bias fold tape and locate it in the middle of the front pieces. Make a casing for the elastic by stitching on both sides of the tape’s edge, ensuring you catch the raw end of the shoulder straps.
  10. ruffleOn the bottom of the dress, apply the flounce to the bottom edge. Gather along the lower edge of the heading and distribute the gathers evenly. Pin/baste flounce in place. Stitch on top of the first stitching to secure the gathers to the dress.
  11. Wrap elastic over the bosom and stretch to a comfortable fit. Cut elastic to that length. Thread elastic through casing to shirr the top and secure at each end with stitching.
  12. Fold each button placket piece (K) in half lengthwise with wrong side together. Press fold. Open each placket piece and baste the interfacing strips to one half by aligning with foldline.
  13. Pin/baste each placket piece to the front edge of the dress from the top edge down to the hem of the flounce with right sides of the placket facing the wrong side of the dress. (Note: Remember to allow for seam allowances at top and bottom edges). Stitch plackets to dress.
  14. On opposite side of placket, turn under seam allowances and press. Then turn under the seam allowances on the short ends. Press. Align and match the turned edges of the placket to the stitched seam of the front edge to encase the raw edges and topstitch the plackets to the dress.
  15. Divide the right hand side placket into 8 equally spaced vertical buttonholes. Make buttonholes.
  16. On the left hand side placket, hand-sew 8 buttons to align with buttonholes.
  17. Try dress on and drape dress straps over shoulder and pin to fit. Hand stitch ends of straps securely to inside of dress on bias tape.

 

The Ruffled Handbag pattern tutorial has been removed by the request of the designer. To view this design, check

http://www.hiddengoods.net/home.html

qphrt01_e982562e-heart-bag1

Step out with your Valentine with this heart-shaped disco bag.

You will need:

  • fashion fabric, 45″ wide
  • lining, 45″ wide
  • polyester fleece interfacing
  • Transfer web
  • cable cord, ½” dia.
  • coordinating thread
  • 1 dome snap set or Velcro tab, ½” dia
  • 1 tasseled decorative cord for bag strap
  • kraft paper

PATTERN

bag-draft

Make a circle. Measure the diameter (D).

Make a square with sides equal to D + ½”.

Cut circle in half.

Fold square in half matching opposite corners. Open fold.

Join semi circles to square matching Xs and Os to form heart shape.

Draw a 1″ dart between the semi circles 4″ long.

Bag Tab for closure – make a rectangle 3″ wide and 1/2 the diameter of the circle.  (1/2 D)

Add ½” seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

CUTTING

heart-lay1Fuse fleece interfacing to back of fashion fabric using transfer web before cutting out bag front & back and bag tab. Follow manufacturer’s direction for application.

Bag Shell – cut 2X self

Bag Lining – cut 2X lining

Tab – ½ D long x 3″ wide, self

Bias Strips for piping – 1″ wide (enough to go around perimeter of heart shape)

Cable Cording – perimeter of heart + 2″

ASSEMBLY

Make Piping

Make up corded bias piping. Join enough bias strips for the required length and wide enough to cover the cable cord plus the seam allowance. Lay the piping-11cord in the centre, on the wrong side of the bias strip.

Fold the bias strip over the cord matching the raw edges. Stitch the 2 sides of the bias strip together along the length. Use a zipper foot or cording foot on the sewing machine to ensure that the stitches are close to the cord.

Trim Bag Front

Place the corded piping around the outer edge of the interfaced heart piece, right sides together (RST) and matching the raw edges. Align the seams on the piping, allowing 1″ extra and begin at the dart; continue around the perimeter of the bag so that the piping gently curves around the heart shape (clip piping seam allowance if necessary). Finish at the dart and allow 1″ extra again. Carefully clip and remove the filler (cord only) from ends of the piping and crisscross the ends to neaten. Baste in place, 1/2″ in from the raw edges. Sew piping in place using a zipper foot.

Carefully cut through center of dart. Place ends of piping flat in center of dart. Fold heart in half and sew up dart to encase piping ends.

At  bottom of dart (●), attach bottom portion of dome snap set, according to manufacturer’s instructions. Set aside.

Front Bag Lining

Make a square patch pocket and place it in the center of one lining piece beneath the dart. Topstitch in place, leaving the top edge open. Sew up the dart.

With wrong sides together (WST), align and match the heart shape of the lining to the piped fashion fabric and baste together around the top part of the heart shape between the “O”s.

Stitch around the top edge using ½” seam allowance. Grade and trim seam allowance if necessary. Clip seam allowances at point O. Turn front bag section right side out and press edge flat. Topstitch along edge if desired. Baste the open edge of lining to the wrong side of the front piece from the Os to the point of the heart shape.

Bag Back Section and Lining

Sew up the dart on the bag back portion and on back lining piece.

With WST, align and match the heart shape and baste together around the top part of the heart shape between the “O”s.

Stitch around the top edge using ½” seam allowance. Grade and trim seam allowance if necessary. Clip seam allowances at point O. Turn back section right side out and press edge flat. Topstitch along edge if desired.

Apply the top portion of the dome snap set  to the bag tab, according to manufacturer’s directions.

Attach tab closure to face of back section, securing it at the bottom of the dart.

Joining Bag Front to Back

With WST, align and match the front and back sections following the heart point shape.

(Do not include the back lining.) Pin /baste together and sew along the piping using a zipper foot.  Grade seam allowance and trim point.

Turn under seam allowance of back lining and align folded edge with the machine-stitching. Slipstitch the opening edge of the lining closed.

Turn bag right side out.

Finishing Bag

Hand-stitch ends of tasseled cord securely at points O.

 

moncler3aFeatured: Rouge Passion Capelet by Giambattista Valli for Moncler.

The famed puffy ski coats from Italy’s Moncler has teamed up with Giambattista Valli for the Moncler Gamme Rouge Collection. The beautifully sculpted pieces flaunt huge collars with twisted closures. Why not hit the ski slopes wearing a capelet puffer?

You will need:

  • Approx. 60″ [152cm] of Marilite® waterproof nylon, 60″ [153cm] wide
  • Approx. 24″ [61cm] of hi-loft terylene batting, 60″ [153cm] wide
  • Coordinating polyester thread
  • 4 sets of covered dome snaps, ½” [12 mm] dia.
  • Kraft paper
  • Tissue paper

MEASUREMENTS

This pattern is drafted by height. The body proportion is made up of 8 heads.

Your height divided by 8.

Shoulder width = distance from shoulder point to shoulder point across the back.

PATTERN

draft-a1

BODY:

Make a perfect square equal to ½ of the shoulder width measurement.

redoUse a set-square to draw a 90 degree angle on the Kraft paper.

Set up a grid using the square as shown: A,B,C

Point O is 4″ from top right corner on square C.

Point Z is midpoint of right side on square C.

Join points O and Z with a curved line as shown in draft.

Point ■ is midpoint of upper square B.

Point X is located at left top corner of square C.

Points ■ (red) are located 2″ [5cm] from point X.

Fold new sheet of kraft paper into quarters.

Place left bottom corner of square A on folded corner of paper.

Trace out solid line outline of squares A-B-C.

This is the back and sleeve portion of the capelet.

Fold a second sheet of kraft paper in half width-wise.

Place bottom of square C on fold of paper.

Trace out solid line outline of square C.

This is the front piece of the capelet.

NOTE: Add seam allowance around perimeter of pattern pieces. (thick solid line)

Cut out pattern pieces while paper is still folded.

COLLAR:

Use a set-square to draw a 90 degree angle on the Kraft paper.

Set up a grid using the square as shown:

1st row: A,B,C,D

2nd row: E,F,G,H

Find the vertical midpoint of squares D and H. Join with a straight line.

Point + is midpoint of upper square C and lower square G

Add seam allowance to perimeter and cut out pattern piece. This is the collar.

Draw a rectangle 24″ x 2″ [61cm x 5cm]. This is the neck band.

Draw a rectangle 15″ x 5″ [38cm x 12.5cm]. Divide into 3 equal parts. These are carriers.

Add seam allowance to perimeter of neckband and carriers. Cut out pattern pieces.

CUTTINGlay1

Capelet Back and Sleeves – cut 1X self

Capelet Fronts – cut 2X self

Capelet Neckband – cut 2X self

Capelet Collar – cut 1X self

Carriers – cut 3X self

lay-bBack and Sleeve Insulation – cut 1X batting

Front Insulation – cut 2X batting

Neckband Insulation – cut 1X batting

Collar Insulation - cut 1X batting

ASSEMBLY

  1. For each carrier piece, fold in half lengthwise with right sides together (RST).
  2. Pin/baste long raw edges. Stitch seam and press open. Turn right side out and press flat.
  3. For each front piece, place one carrier at point Z face up. Fold fronts in half width-wise with RST.
  4. Pin/baste front edge and side seam. Sew seams, ensuring the carrier is caught in the seam, and press seams open.
  5. For back and sleeve portion, fold in half width-wise with RST.
  6. Pin upper edge and pin/baste under-sleeve arm edge on both ends. Sew seams and press seams open.
  7. Attach one front armhole to armhole on back portion with RST. Pin/baste armhole seam in a “U” shape. Sew armhole seam. Clip seam allowance if necessary.
  8. On back portion, fold self fabric at point X with RST, and pin/baste from X to red point. Sew seam and press open. Repeat on opposite end.
  9. Insert batting into each body piece. Baste insulation to seam allowance of armholes on the front portions and upper edges of all self pieces. Topstitch through all layers on back portion vertically at CB and vertical sides of square B to contain the insulation. (see tip below)
  10. Align one piece of the neckband to the upper edge of the body at the CB and at the CF with RST. Match the upper edge of the front piece and shoulder with the neckband and allow for seam allowance at the front edges. Pleat out any excess on the sleeve portion. Gather the upper back edge evenly into the neckband. Pin/baste into place. Layer the second neckband piece on the inside of the body to sandwich the 3 layers together. Pin/baste in place. Machine-stitch the neckband to the body. Sew up short ends of the neckband.  Press seams and trim if necessary. Turn right side out.
  11. Insert batting into neckband and baste upper edge closed.
  12. For collar piece, staystitch at pint +. Fold collar lengthwise in half and pin/baste from point + to end of collar and across short end. Sew seam; press and grade seam.
  13. On opposite short end, gather edge to remaining carrier. Fold carrier to form a loop and attach midway in seam. Gather collar onto it. Fold collar lengthwise with RST. Sew gathered end. Grade and trim seam allowance if necessary. Turn right side out.
  14. Insert batting into collar and baste to seam allowance. Pin/baste collar to neckband between the + . Sew collar seam. Turn seam allowance into the collar and slipstitch the open side to the neckband.
  15. To complete the capelet, handstitch 4 sets of dome snaps evenly-shaped to front edge closure and attach short end of carrier under the armhole by turning under the open end and sewing to the back of the capelet to create a sleeve.

TIP: To sew batting with fabric, place the batting side, face down on tissue paper and machine-stitch with the self fabric on top of the batting. Tear away the tissue paper from the seam afterwards.

striped-caftanFeatured: Oscar de la Renta Caftan

Oscar de la Renta shows us how to relax with this 2009 caftan style. The sheer striped silk print is so feminine and the flat braid trim makes this style ultra luxe. Can you just imagine lounging around in this? (You’ll definitely want to sew one up as no pattern is required.) This is a classic piece that belongs in any collection of beautiful, fine clothing.

You will need:

  • Fashion fabric, 45″ [114cm] wide
  • Flat braid trim, 2″ [5cm] wide
  • Coordinating thread
  • 12 half-ball buttons, line 20 [12.5 mm dia.]

MEASUREMENTS

Measure from the nape of your neck down to the desired length: purchase twice this amount of 45″ [114cm] wide fashion fabric and four and a half times this amount of 2″ [50mm] wide flat braid trim .

CUTTING

Cut the fabric into two equal lengths.

Reduce the width of both pieces to 35″ [89cm].

From the excess cut-away material, cut two rectangles, each measuring 10″ wide x 40″ long [25.5cm x 102cm]. Set these aside to be used for the sleeves.

NECKLINE

Choose one length of fabric to be the front of the caftan. Spread it out on the tabletop, face side up, and fold in half lengthwise. Mark and cut the front neck opening as follows:

frontneckFrom the foldline at the center top edge of the fabric:

Measure down 4″ [10cm] and mark with a pin.

Along the top edge, place a pin 4″ [10 cm] from the foldline.

Arc a curve using a compass from the top of the foldline between the 2 pins.

Cut out the neck opening. Refer to diagram A.

Cut along the foldine of the front piece in two halves  (centerfront seam).

backneckChoose the other panel of fabric to be the back of the caftan. Spread it out on the tabletop, face side up, and fold in half lengthwise. Mark and cut the back neck opening as follows:

From the foldline at the center top edge of the fabric:

Measure down 1 ½” [4 cm] and mark with a pin.

Along the top edge, place a pin 4″ [10cm] from the foldline.

From this pin, measure down 1 ½” [4cm].

Shape the back neck and cut out the neck opening. Refer to diagram B.

ASSEMBLY

On the two front portions of the caftan, turn ½” [12.5mm] seam allowance along the centerfront edges and press flat. Open the folded edge.

braid2Align the edge of the flat braid to the foldline of the seam allowance. The trim should be on top of the seam allowance with wrong sides together. Edge-stitch the braid to the centerfront edge.

Repeat (as mirrored image) to the opposite front piece of the caftan.

Layer both front pieces with right sides together and matching the braid trim. Align the trim at the center front.

Measure down from the neck edge 8″ [20cm] and mark with a pin. This will create a keyhole neckline.

Measure up from the hem edge 18″ [46cm] and mark with a pin. This will create a center slit.

With wrong sides together, stitch the centerfront seam of the front panels between the two pins. (Note: Do not catch the trim in the stitched seam.)

With the front piece FACE UP, gently press the centerfront seam open by placing the braid trim flat. On the open edge of the trim, edgestitch the braid to the caftan fronts.

With wrong sides together, pin/baste back piece to front piece at shoulders. Sew shoulder seams. Press seams open.

Take the two sleeve rectangles and pin braid trim to one long edge in the same manner that was used for the centerfront edge , aligning trim with seam allowance. (There will be some excess at the top and bottom). Edge-stitch braid to fabric to create the wrists.

With right sides together, fold each rectangle in half width-wise and mark  midpoint location with a pin.

With right sides together, pin/baste each sleeve rectangle to the body, matching the pin to the shoulder seam. Sew sleeves to body.

Measure the neck opening of the caftan (do not include seam allowance). Cut a length of braid trim equal to this measurement plus 1 inch [25mm].

Turn short ends of trim under ½” [12.5mm] and press flat. Fold trim in half lengthwise. Bind the raw neckline with the trim. Pin/baste in place. Topstitch along edge of braid from CF to CF.

caftan2To complete the caftan:

Place the front of the caftan together with the back, right sides together. Pin/baste the side seams and underarm seams together.  Trim any excess of the trim, if necessary.

Stitch the sides. Press seams open.

Hem the bottom by binding hemline with braid trim in the same manner used for the neckline.

Sew a thread loop and button at the neckline at the centerfront.

Sew a button at the base of the keyhole opening and another at the top of the center slit.

Evenly space the rest of the buttons along the centerfront seam and sew in place.

 

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