In the fashion world, bohemian or boho, refers to a a state of mind regarding fashion that is individual, romantic, and free-spirited. This style is often called hippie-chic. Try drafting and making a fully-gathered yoked boho blouse to wear with your skinny jeans.
You will need:
- Approx. 1.5 yds. [1.4 m] of fashion fabric, 60″ [150 cm] wide
- Approx. 0.5 yd. [0.5 m] of fusible interfacing, 24″ [60 cm] wide
- Coordinating thread
- Kraft paper
Bust – measure under the arms around the fullest part of chest.
Back waist length - measure from nape of neck to waistline.
Shoulder width – measure across back from shoulder to shoulder.
Fold kraft paper into quarters, aligning the foldline.
From the folded corner, measure ½ of shoulder width plus ½” [1.25 cm] across the paper.
From the folded corner, measure ½ of shoulder width minus 1″ [2.5cm] down the paper.
From the folded corner, draw a 45° line between the 2 foldlines.
Plot a point on the line equaling ½ of shoulder width. Label point, X.
Join these 3 points with a smooth curve.
Draw a second line 4″ [10 cm] parallel to the curved line within the curve to complete the yoke.
Add ½” [1.25 cm] seam allowances to neckline and yokeline.
Cut the shape from the folded paper.
Square 2 lines across and down the paper.
The length of the body equals the back waist length plus 1″ [2.5 cm] hem.
Label the length, CENTER FOLD.
The width of the body equals ½ of the bust measurement.
Square from these points to complete the body pattern.
On the side seam, measure 5″ [13 cm] from the hem. Label this point, O.
Point X is located at the top of the sideseam.
Add ½”[1.25 cm] seam allowance to top edge and side seam.
Fold kraft paper in half and square a line from the foldline.
Plot a point on the line equal to the distance from X to O on the body section.
Label this point, X and label the foldline, O on the sleeve section.
Square a line from X.
Plot a point on this line from X and along the foldline from O equal to ½ the bust measurement.
Join the 2 points with a straight line. Add a 1-inch [2.5 cm] hem to complete the sleeve.
Add ½” [1.25 cm] seam allowances to top edge and side seam.
Cut the sleeve shape from the folded paper.
Yoke Interfacing – Cut 1X fusible.
Body – Cut 2X self on fold.
Sleeve – Cut 2X self.
- Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of 1 yoke section following the manufacturer’s directions.
- With right sides together (RST), match up the front and back sections of the body. Pin/baste side seam between O and hem edge. Stitch side seams. Press open.
- Turn under a ½” [1.25 double rolled hem along the sleeve opening and topstitch down.
- With RST, pin/baste sleeve between the Xs on the body. Stitch seam and press open.
- Sew 2 rows of gathering stitches across the top edge of the front and back body from sleeve opening to sleeve opening. Draw up threads and gather fabric.
- With RST, pin/baste gather edges of body to yoke, matching centers and Xs. Butt sleeve opening edge together and pin/baste at shoulder point on yoke. Distribute gathers evenly.
- Machine stitch yokeline. Press seam allowance towards yoke. Turn garment right side out.
- Turn under seam allowance along outer edge on interfaced yoke piece. Press.
- Match neckline of interfaced yoke piece to neckline of garment. Pin/baste in place. Stitch neck seam. Clip and grade seam allowance. Pull interfaced yoke piece through neckline to inside. Understitch the neckline.
- Lap the folded edge of the interfaced yoke piece over the gathered yoke seam, matching the centers, shoulders, and Xs. Slipstitch yokeline to encase the raw edges of the gathers.
- Turn under the hem allowance of the garment and press. Stitch a ½" [1.25 cm] double rolled hem.