Classic five pocket cool, with an always-in-style timeless wash denim and the most comfortable fit ever. It’s no wonder you reach for your made-to-measure jeans again and again.
MEASUREMENTS
Waist – measure narrowest part of torso at navel level.
Seat – measure around fullest part of hips approximately 8″[20 cm] below the waist.
Body Rise - measure drop from waistline to crotch level.
Outseam – measure distance from waistline to floor.
Bottom width – desired width of jean leg bottoms (minimum amount must allow for measurement of foot around the heel).
PATTERN
Jean Template: Front
Square both ways from 0.
0-1 = body rise minus width of waistband: square across.
0-2 = waist to seat minus waistband width; square across.
0-3 = outseam measurement; square across.
1-4 = half the distance of 1-3 minus 2″[5cm]; square across.
1-5 = 1/12 of seat measurement + 3/8″[1cm]; square up to 6 and 7.
6-8 = ¼ of seat measurement.
5-9 = 1/16 of seat measurement.
7-10 = 5/8″[1.5cm].
Join 10-6 and 6-9 with a curve touching a point 1 ¼”- 1 ½” [3.25-3.75cm] from 5.
10-11 = ¼ waist + ½”[1.25cm]
3-12 = ½ of bottom width minus 1/8″[0.5cm].
4-13 = the measurement 3-12 + ¾”[2cm].
Draw side seam 11,8,13,12; curve 8-11 out 1/8″[0.5 cm].
3-14 = ½ bottom width minus 1/8″[0.5cm].
4-14 = the measurement 3-14 + ¾”[2cm].
Draw inside leg seam 9, 15, 14. Curve in 9-15 by 1/8″[0.5cm]
Jean Template: Back
5-16 = ¼ of distance 1-5; square up to 17 on hipline, 18 on the waistline.
16-19 = ½ of distance 16-18.
18-20 = ¾”[2cm].
20-21 = ¾”[2cm].
21-22 = ¼ of waist + 1″[2.5cm]. Join 21-22 to touch the line squared out from 0.
9-23 = ½ of distance 5-9 minus 1/8″[0.5cm].
23-24 = 1/8′[0.5cm].
Join 21-19 and 19-24 with a curve touching a point 1 ½”- 1 ¾”[4-4.5cm] from 16.
17-25 = ¼ seat + 1/8″[0.5cm].
12-26 = 3/8″[1cm]
13-27 = 3/8″[1cm]
Draw side seam 22, 25, 27, 26. Curve out slightly at 25.
14-28 = 3/8″[1cm]
15-29 = 3/8″[1cm]
Draw inside leg seam 24,29,28; curve 24-29 in 3/8″[1cm].
21-30 = ½ of 21-22; square down from line 21-22. Construct a dart on the line, 1/2′”[1.25cm] wide.
To Complete Jean Front
Trace off front section from template draft. Mark point 6.
Draw in curved pocket line 31-32 and pocket bag.
Cut off side piece along the line 31-32; add 1-3/8″[3.5cm] from 31-32.
Draw in fly piece shape to point 33 3/8″[1cm] below 6.
Fly piece width = 1 ½ – 1 ¾”[3.7-4.5cm] wide.
Trace off fly piece.
Trace off pocket bag along line 31-32.
To Complete Jean Back
Trace off back section from template draft. Mark points 16, 17, 21, 22, 24 and 25.
Cut along hipline 17-25, open a wedge approx. 1 ½”[4cm] wide at 17.
(Note: for rounder behinds increase more if desired).
17-34 = 1/8″[0.5cm]; draw in new crotch seamfrom 21-24.
Draw in patch pocket design. (Note: opening must allow for width of hand).
21-35 = ¼ of distance 21-16.
22-36 = ¼ of distance 22-25.
Cut off yoke along line 35-36; close dart.
Curve the line 21-22 and 35-36.
Patch Pocket – trace off back pocket.
Waistband
The jean waistband is cut with ease (1 ¼”[3 cm] larger than waist measurement to fit lower waist position).
37-38 = 2 x waistband width; square across.
38-39 = waist measurement + 1 ¼”[3cm]; square up.
39-40 = fly width; square up.
39-41 = ½ of distance 38-39; square up, label CB and CF. Mark foldline down center.
October 11, 2008 at 3:34 pm
THis site is fantastic!!!
October 20, 2008 at 2:28 pm
Thank you a lot for this pattern!
I actually love your whole site and please continue!
October 23, 2008 at 9:04 am
Thank you so much for this pattern
Love your site alot
October 23, 2008 at 9:54 pm
Nice site.
November 2, 2008 at 9:16 pm
Thank you so much for showing how to get a custom fit for my jeans. I’m looking forward to jeans that actually fit me!
Suze in northern BC Canada
November 7, 2008 at 5:24 pm
I was wondering.
I would like my jeans to be low-rise. Can I use this pattern and once I have drafted it just cut off part of the top where I want – or will it be too baggy around the crotch area? Because that hapened to me once from instructions for custom pants drafting. It was obviously meant to be like that for more ease, but I would like them close fitting.
So I guess after all this, my basic question is if they are close fitting. lol
If they aren’t, can you give me any pointers on how to make them close fitting? I know how to make the leg narrower but that doesn’t really help if the butt is baggy haha.
I am planning on making them with 2-3% lycra jeans fabric.
November 10, 2008 at 3:00 pm
Well, Anasta, to answer your question…only if you have the figure for it!
Low rise jeans are not flattering for most figures but since this jean draft is based on your body measurements, it certainly may be used.
However you CANNOT cut it off the top because you will lose the proportion of the silhouette.
Here is what you have to do to adapt it.
Select where on your body you want your jeans to sit. eg. 2-4″ below your natural waistline. Measure and use this amount for the “waist measurement”.
Next, from this new level, measure the drop to the crotch level. This will be the amount you use for the “rise”. Continue measuring to the floor to determine the “outseam” length.
Use these adapted measurements to plot out the jean draft. Then continue with the remaining jean pattern instructions as shown for the detailing.
For a close-fit, take your measurements very accurately and I would suggest making a “mock-up” of the jean draft in muslin and trying it on for size. It is much easier to do the pattern alterations in paper than it is to do in fabric.
Happy jean designing!
November 11, 2008 at 11:28 pm
Yeah I was wondering how the yoke would work if I just cut them off at the top! Oh I am very excited thanks so much!!!
Haha and I have the figure for it
December 1, 2008 at 1:46 am
Hi! Thanks sooo much for all your fabulous patterns!
I was wondering if you knew of any good websites that tell you how to put it all together?
December 8, 2008 at 12:17 pm
So I made the pants! They were a little baggy in the legs even though I took the measurements as carefully as possible, but all in all they look great! I’ll just take them in a little on the side seams! Thanks a lot for these great instructions!
April 5, 2009 at 11:09 am
[...] Für ganz mutige – eine Anleitung zum erstellen eines Jeans-Schnittmusters [...]
April 15, 2009 at 3:05 pm
Not that I’m impressed a lot, but this is more than I expected for when I stumpled upon a link on Digg telling that the info here is quite decent. Thanks.
April 15, 2009 at 3:58 pm
Does this drafting also work for childrens’ pattern and measurements too? (Of course, adjust the length from waist to hip.)
April 15, 2009 at 4:36 pm
This draft cannot be used for children’s wear (or men’s wear) as the proportions are different in body shape. You would need to use a proper children’s draft.
May 7, 2009 at 8:49 am
[...] Jeans [...]
May 23, 2009 at 6:01 am
hmm. funny
September 15, 2009 at 2:06 am
I am puzzled by the waist measurement at “the narrowest part of the torso at the navel level” because the narrowest part of the female torso is most definitely NOT at the navel level, but about 2″ above that where the natural waist is. Although all clothing designers seem to be trying to make the “natural waist” be somewhere around the navel where the hips curve, the narrowest part of the torso in every female past puberty is well above that. Great and informative site though
September 15, 2009 at 2:46 pm
HI Joanne:
The waist measurement is indeed the narrowest part of the torso but for most people they do not wear their skirts or pants at the natural waist but slightly lower on the pelvis. The description will be “approximate” but often is just above the navel. Admittedly, this will be different for everyone. (I know in my case the navel has gone south long long ago). Hope that clears up your puzzlement. Hope you get a great pair of jeans from the draft.
December 30, 2009 at 9:45 pm
I love this! I have been looking for a good jeans pattern for years, now I seem to have found it. Please tell me if the following is correct: I have a flat seat, do I make the wedge from point 17 a little less than 4 cm? Or is 4 cm the minimum amount?
Thank you so much for this (and for the rest of this wonderfull blog!)
Greatings from the Netherlands!